| Author | Message | ||
     Hugie03flhr |
I finally installed a 2007-08 oil pump and bronze gear. I noticed a loose fit when I slid the Bronze gear on the pinion shaft. I expected a snug fit but I can get a little wiggle. I would say it has about .003-.005 clearance. Is this the way it is supposed to be??? I put some Locite on the key and shaft for some extra insurance. Thanks BILL | ||
| Jramsey |
With that much clearance it will have excessive run out and wear fast. The fit should be .0005 or less. (Message edited by jramsey on March 27, 2009) | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Jramsey, isn't .0005 a press fit on the pinion shaft. The old gear slid off pretty easy but it was still a closer fit. I already bolted the bike back together so I can't check into it but I did take some pics. On my pics the pinion gear looks like it slides into the oil pump gears flared sides to center it as it tightens. I was wondering if anyone else noticed their bronze gear having some play before tightening it down? | ||
| Jramsey |
.0005/ five tenths of a thousandth should slip on with hand pressure if started square provided the shaft O.D. and the gear I.D. are perfectly round. Being it's a Bronze worm gear that drives a Steel helical gear I would say it should be alright. Without actually measuring it your guess at 3-5 thousandths could be different than another persons. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I guess your right w/out a measurement I guess I'll be cutting my oil filters open from now on looking for pretty little shiny flakes off gold  | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a 1997 S3T with 107,097.4 miles as of the last ride ... Have a return line oil filter that "i" cut open every oil change ... What "i" found is, the more miles "i" got on the engine the less trash was in the oil filter ... | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Buellistic, I'll keep that in mind when I check  By the way does your bike have the upgraded pump and bronze gear? | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Update: I have about 100 miles on it and oil pressure is good but I used HD synthetic multi-use 15/50 (looked very watery when I filled the oil tank). I noticed some ticking when idling for a few minutes. If I bring the rpms up it goes away. Is this HD oil crap??? | ||
| Riviera |
I am of the understanding that the HD Syn3 is a Group III oil, not a true synthetic like a Mobil 1 or Amsoil Group IV synthetic. Following is a related explanation. From Wikipedia: Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax. Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it. Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process). Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Group V is a catch-all group for any base stock not described by Groups I to IV. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs). Groups I and II are commonly referred to as mineral oils, group III is typically referred to as synthetic (except in Germany and Japan, where they must not be called synthetic) and group IV is a synthetic oil. Group V base oils are so diverse that there is no catch-all description. The same SAE system for designating motor oil viscosity also applies to synthetic oils. Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV). Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. From CarCraft: Synthetic oils, pioneered in the '70s by Mobil and now available from most major oil companies, take the all-season, multiviscosity approach to the outer limits. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics. Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F. Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Rivera, that's a lot of info! I had Mobile 1 in their and when I finished this up grade I had the HD stuff laying around, so I used it. I'll run it for awhile then I'll switch back. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced that ticking? Thanks for the info! (Message edited by Hugie03flhr on April 09, 2009) | ||
| Riviera |
Yeh, sorry for the long-winded answer to your question, "Is this HD oil crap???". This subject has been covered here many times before and I almost didn't answer so as not to start that argument again. I figured I'd just throw the info out there and let you make your own assumptions/decision from it. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Have 107,295.4 miles as of the last ride ... First 60K, 2W50 H-D dyno oil in engine and transmission and from 60K to present SYN3 H-D oil in engine and transmission ... Top End has never been off !!! MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
That is some insane miles on that Buell, Buellistic! Do you run it hard or do you baby it??? I'm 40 years old w/ a badge in my pocket so I can say I run hard but not that hard enough to be considered abuse  | ||
| Buellistic |
Hugie03flhr: It has been to 68000/7000 RPM many times before 60K miles ... Now "i" keep it below 65000 RPM unles "i" get excited which is not too often now ... Going now for just how long it will keep going and making a try for 200K miles ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!} | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
La Fayette, Are you using a bronze oil pump drive gear or the stock steel part? Dave | ||
| Buellistic |
Dave_02_1200: Oil pump gear up-dated to -06 gear ... -98(same as -91A SPORTSTER)oil pump(plan to up-date to XB -02B oil pump) ... Return oil line small oil filter(large oil filter in OEM filter position) ... "BLAST" PVC's in OEM rocker arm covers(before XB's came out) ... BUELL fan kit(LOUD FANS SAVE LIVES !!!) MAY THE LONG LASTING {BUELL} BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
LaFayette, Thank you very much. I plan to install an old style HD Panhead type oil filter in the return line. They look cool and should do the job nicely. Regards, Dave | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
That's funny (loud fans save lives)  . Dave, are you going for the finned alum. oil filter? If so, were are you going to mount it??? | ||
| Riviera |
I'd really like to see some photos of your return line oil filters. Seems like a sound idea. Filter dimensions and especially part number would be helpful. “Return oil line small oil filter…” “I plan to install an old style HD Panhead type oil filter in the return line.” | ||
| Buellistic |
Riviera: YOU HAVE "MAIL" !!! | ||
| Riviera |
I didn't receive your email. (?) Can you just post it here? | ||
| Flyingfinn |
Hello, new Buell owner here I have been searching and have not found an answer I want to take a short cut from the factory manual changing the oil pump drive gear in the case. Can I change the oil pump drive gear by setting the motor on TDC to relieve cam spring pressure. Then pulling the pinion gear and replacing the oil pump drive gear. Or will I screw up the engine with out re-leaving the cam spring pressure and pulling the push rods.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
You can do it, but it runs a high chance of damaging the cam bushings, if you can even get the cam cover on at all. I talked to a pretty good Harley tech that had done it successfully, and mentioned something about putty knives, but didn't recommend it. You *can* what you describe, and use that as a trick so you only need to pull one of the rocker boxes, whichever is easiest to get at. |
