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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through March 27, 2009 » Can the lower fork stem bearing withstand high temperatures? « Previous Next »

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X1_rider
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 07:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm finally done with my X1W teardown for powdercoating.
I want to do the fork clamps but the lower bearing is a press fit. I have to cook the pieces to 400F three times for powdercoating, is there anything in the bearing that won't withstand that temperature? I was just going to mask it and leave it there for the process.

Thanks in advance.
A pic of the torn down X1W.
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Maxbuell
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would replace the bearings while u have it torn down. Not very expensive. I would also remove the old one first as to not scratch or scuff the new powder coating.
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X1_rider
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the reply. Can I just change the bearing or do I have to replace the cup in the steering head as well?
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Mick
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd do both , not a hard job.
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X1_rider
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

good point, however, the bearing is all metal right? There is no rubber or other parts that would burn off in the oven.
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Malott442
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All steel.........


While you have her torn down, why don't you replace that junk rear shock and sell me the old one for scrap : ) hehe
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X1_rider
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Haha!!! I'll do you a favor, I'll remove that junk Works shock and scrap it myself so you won't have to bother with it.
Thanks for the info on the bearing, I'm leaning toward just masking it for the PC'ing.
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Standingdeadwood
Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'll have to clean all of the grease from the bearing. Some grease may cook out from under the inner race of the bearing. The melted grease may affect the PC job. As far as damaging the bearing steel, the manufacturers recommend a limit of 300 Deg. F. We normally heat them to 400 without any customer complaints. If the bearing turns straw colored or blue, it got too hot. The steel has had the hardness tempered out of it.
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 05:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow..All of the cosmetic work,and a critical mechanical bearing is getting dissed.

The bearing set is less than $25. The outer race CAN be difficult w/o special tools but CAN be replaced.Please reconsider replacing those bearings.

BTW,they're the SAME bearings that reside in your swingarm.I did done both.easy
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Buellsrule
Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 08:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yves, don't mess around here. Replace the bearings. It's not expensive, you won't mess up your PC job and it's cheap insurance for the long run.

My 2 cents,

Frank
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X1_rider
Posted on Monday, March 23, 2009 - 05:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, you guys convinced me. Can anyone tell me exactly which tools here I would need to do the bearing cups?
http://www.georges-garage.com/chassis_tools.htm

This guy has awesome prices on tools, I bought quite a few for my Harleys and they are very high quality too.
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Skntpig
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't remember exactly how i did mine but I just used standard tools I had.

I think I destroyed the bearing to get it off and punched it on using a block of wood I drilled to accept the stem.
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Skntpig
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh yeah...Freeze the stem so it shrinks before install
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rider:

plan on destroying the lower bearing on the tree, cut the cage and remove it
you can carefuly cut the race part way through and split it with a chisel, or heat and drive it off the stem will move in the tree when heated

the outer race ( cup ) can be driven out of the frame with a punch, save it grind it down for a slip fit and use it as a pressing tool with some thread rod and washers, I put anti seize on the outside and the frame before install, make sure that they ( the outer races are seated )

do not mix & match the bearing components.

the new bearing (inner) can be tapped with a piece of pipe or pressed if you cut the pipe right and use the top bolt and washer.
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used the Oldog method when I did mine. Careful notching w/a Dremel tool and a cold chisel. For re-assemble, I put the stem in the freezer overnight. Lubed the inner bearing, put two safetywire loops through the bearing cage to handle it, and gave it some time in the oven at 275 deg. Made the bearing install easy. Don't forget to put the dust cup on first. Hope this helps, Dave.
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X1_rider
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for advice guys, it's really appreciated. Maybe I'll get the tools from George's Garage, they may be useful in the future for the Harleys as well. As far as pressing the bearing on the stem, I have a 20 ton shop press that I bought to do my car wheel bearings so that should work pretty good.

Thanks again guys!!!
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Ducxl
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have it.

It's made by Jim's Tools and here's a link>>>Jim's bearing race remover
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X1_rider
Posted on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It looks like it's the same as tool 660050 from George's Garage, except the one from George is $42.95 instead of $79.05.

Thanks for the link, that's great information, I think I'll be buying this.
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