| Author | Message | ||
     Evilchevy |
I have a 1996 S1, the clutch starting slipping after 100 miles after I bought it. Check the setting, change the oil as there was a bit of white greasy stuff due to condensation. it started sliping again after few 100 miles, tried to redo the setting but it carry on slipping. Bought a carbon disk kit and change the all lots. was running like hell, but after around 1000 miles, trouble again, last week when I started to really open wide on the motorway, I noticed that it was slipping again in hight rev, I'm taking the same road every day to go to work and always open in this split of motorway,didn't get the slipping before last monday. did someone ever had the same kind of problem??? what should I look for??? I did the set up as indicated on the technical book. I don't want to have to change my clutch again. Please help...... | ||
| Loki |
which clutch maker? My original started slipping last season. Just pulled it, it was toast. Dropping in a Barnett extra disc kit. Goodbye grenade plate. | ||
| Eshardball |
Ditto on the Barnett kit and a new spring. I have had Barnett clutches in 4 bikes and never been dissapointed in their performance. | ||
| Smoke |
does the clutch lever have any free play before actually moving the cable? i usually leave about 1/8" of slack for best grab. tim | ||
| Evilchevy |
yes there is a bit of play as indicated in the workshop manual | ||
| Radon30 |
Energy One makes a clutch kit, i had issues with the Barnett extra plate kit. The Energy one is much cheaper. | ||
| Evilchevy |
I had barnett carbon and just change for energy one, same problem on both after 1000 miles..... | ||
| Loki |
My next question is this: synthetic or "sport trans" in the primary. I thought I read somewhere that some after market clutches do not tolerate synthetic fluids very well. | ||
| Buellistic |
Spend your BIG $$$.$$ on a AFTERMARKET Racing Clutch if that is what you want to do ... "BUT", myself "i" just "PRODUCT IMPROVED" my OEM Clutch to be the Racing Clutch for the PRICE of 2ea STEEL PN 37913-90 and 1ea FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 to get rid of the SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90(aka "GRENADE PLATE") ... SPORTSTERS have not had this "GRENADE PLATE since 2001, the BLAST, and XB's never had it !!! Even used used PLATES out of a USED OEM CLUTCH that a friend gave me when he went to a AFTERMARKET CLUTCH ... My "PRODUCT IMPROVED" OEM Clutch now has 107,070.8 miles on it as of the last ride with no PROBLEMS ... Run SYN3 HD20W50 in both engine and TRANSMISSION ... MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Radon30 |
You know everyone always told me stick with the stock clutch packs. I ran two seasons of drag racing on the stock clutch. This next round im converting back to the stock plates. oh the barnetts lasted 3 races, that is it. Energy one lasted one season. Im afraid to run synthetic oil in the clutches, where you want more friction. | ||
| Wreckgar |
What do you mean by "grenade plate"? | ||
| Guell |
the spring plate thats in the middle of the clutch | ||
| Buellistic |
"GRENADE PLATE", after about 50K kind of explodes(comes apart !!!) and takes some or all the clutch plates with it, and has been known to take the clutch basket with it if left in till it completely destroys everything ... First hint that it is going bad is the clutch adjustment does not stay in adjustment as long ... |
