| Author | Message | ||
     Blackm2 |
Ok, Got around to getting this done, almost. I went to the HD/Buell shop next to my house and we looked at the Buell part-L0501.TA and we looked at the Harley part-16079-79D. By measuring EVERYTHING on these parts, and confirming that the numbers that are printed on the rubber were the same, the only difference between the two was price. Buell part, $17 and Harley part $68. My neighbor has a drill press and he proceeded to drill on the part after he made a sweet little brace to secure it. However, the drill was spinning to fast and the bit was not for metal only, so it began to heat the rubber. We started to drill it out with a 15/32 bit. After that I went and got a METAL ONLY drill bit in 1/2 inch and we slowed the drill down and put some oil on it as well and it cut through like butter. As I was reaming the hole out further for the bolt to fit I noticed the rubber is separated from the shaft of the mount. NOT on top or anywhere else, see pics. IS THIS OK? Since the weight of the engine will be translated onto that top flat washer, will that be fine? Also I suggest anyone with a tuber to email Buell and get them to start manufacturing the correct part as this is a PITA.  | ||
| Beachbuell |
Looks OK to me. When I rebuilt my motor last summer I installed a new isolator. I had to drill mine out also, as the I.D. was too small. And I did order the correct Buell part as per the parts manual. | ||
| Jramsey |
I've never heard of a fluted drill bit made for metal only. Being the sleeve in the ISO is most likely made from Chinese mystery metal I slow the speed down to about 25 feet per minute which for a .500 drill is about 190 RPM. | ||
| Oldog |
My 0.02$ is if the insert spun in the rubber its a scrap. The normal failure is that the "neck" inside the bracket stretches and then rips | ||
| Gowindward |
I belief the current p/n is L0501.2 From an old post of Al's @ American Sport Bike "The new Isolator is NOT a superseding part for Buells. It should have received a totally new part number from HD based on that, but they must not have realized the Buell application when they did the revision to 16207-79C. Buell has released a Parts and Accessories Bulletin (BPAB#32) that says that the NEW part number for the old part (16207-79B) is now L0501.2. Do NOT use the -79C version, it does not accommodate the D washer that Buell needs. Al" | ||
| Kyrocket |
I just placed an order with Al this weekend for an isolator among other things. Hope the right one shows up. I'll try and remember to post up and compare because I still have the old one sitting in the frame. | ||
| Blackm2 |
The L0501.TA is the updated version. EXACT same part as the harley ...79D. The insert and the flat top washer are one piece. So the weight of the engine sits on top of that flat washer. Oldog, it didn't spin, the only separation is the bottom of the mount where I have the picture shown. The reason I didn't call Al is that this dealership is right next to me, and the one Al shows on the site states in the write up that the mount won't last long, that doesn't instill confidence for me. So...being that most of the weight and movement is axially down on the flattop of this updated mount, should I worry about the separation where the picture shows? This is the bottom of the mount, and I know the bolt is backwards, purely for demonstrative purposes. Thanks! (Message edited by blackm2 on March 02, 2009) | ||
| Beachbuell |
16207-79D......... Yep, thats the part I had ordered. Needed to drill it out to fit. | ||
| Gowindward |
I think the "TA" part is a Blast part, and not a Tuber part. IMHO the long term solution for failed isolators is to install a "Stenzel" strut/brace. My S3 had an isolator failing at 4000 miles, and my new S2 has 5400 miles on it with the same looking failure. The isolator is tearing around the underside on the rear side. I figure that is from non-axial loading of the bolt running through the isolator. This puts a tensile load on the underside rear of the isolator. In my experience rubber does not like tensile loads! I think the Stenzel strut ties in the upper end of the bolt to the motor and will eliminate or greatly reduce the non-axial loading....and VERY premature isolator failures. (Message edited by gowindward on March 02, 2009) | ||
| Oldog |
Loren You drew one up can you post up the drawing and specifics ( or a link ) I am wondering if there are other forces at work as the muffler mount broke and the bushings in my Y mount are pushed to one side ( the rear isos are still pliable and appear to be intact ) its a puzzle.. The tensile (pulling load) is the motor twisting? ( rotating forward perhaps? ) (Message edited by oldog on March 02, 2009) | ||
| Brinnutz |
Yes, it wasn't too long ago that there was a thread were about 4 of us ordered that Stenzel bar, and a few others made their own. Guess the guys who's bikes have been running and installed these should give us an update. | ||
| Jramsey |
The three that I've done with the -79D I put the spool shaped washer end towards the head bracket and the end you have pictured on top with the oem D washer. | ||
| Oldog |
The three that I've done with the -79D I put the spool shaped washer end towards the head bracket and the end you have pictured on top with the oem D washer. I think thats upside down, I am fairly sure that that end ( the one shown ) points down ( toward the cylinder head mount )  The other end is broader and the D washer compresses the rubber there, the metal base is formed ( drawn ) and fits through a hole in the frame. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=802116#POST802116 (Message edited by oldog on March 02, 2009) | ||
| Jramsey |
The spool shaped side is a smaller OD and has less rubber to boot. Also the sleeve when drilled out to .500 only has a shoulder thickness of about .040 which to me is not a near wide enough seat for the cast Aluminum head bracket to bear against. | ||
| Gowindward |
Jim (Olddog) Here's the old post. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/396773.html?1224722734 I think it is the motor rotating about the rear isolator mounts and the front isolator bolt being in a single shear condition. The Stenzel brace puts the front isolator bolt into a double shear condition with the isolator being in the middle. I think it will make for a condition that will be less stressful on the rubber in the isolator. | ||
| Blackm2 |
James, maybe that's why you have gone through three of them? Flat metal top on these mounts have to be on top to carry the load of the engine I would think. The flat top and shaft are one piece of metal. I'm still not seeing my question answered though, unanimously, I think Beachbuell is the only one who believes this will be good. Anyone else? | ||
| Jramsey |
Blackm2, I have not gone through 3 ISO's. Last summer I bought an S3T that had been eating ISO's like candy which since I repaired has been trouble free. The other 2 were for local riders that I do work for. The metal bushing is only there to locate center and control the preload of the rubber. | ||
| Gowindward |
Blackm2, It doesn't look like you hurt the part. I think if you did it would show up as soon as you let the load of the engine sit down on the isolator. | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
 Hope Helps!, Mi question is if with the ISO updated version "16207-79D", will I have to put the oem D washer on top or it won't to be necessary at all? Regards. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Thanks all, I do intend to use the D washer provided there is room, which there looks to be plenty. I think that may distribute the load across the flat washer better. I think I may get another mount and drill it again for my own piece of mind. Does anyone have contact info for Buell tech support or the like? The fact that this has to be done for an 8 year old bike is quite ridiculous really. I love my Buell, and I love working on my Buell, but this is ridiculous. | ||
| Gowindward |
Buell Customer Service: 1-414-343-8400 Let us know what they says is the correct p/n for your bike. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I think ANY separation of the rubber and the steel is a failure. I have replaced mine with no noticeable damage other than a small amount of separation that was visible only after it was removed from the bike. | ||
| Kalali |
"...I have replaced mine with no noticeable damage other than a small amount of separation that was visible only after it was removed from the bike." What made you think it needed to be replaced? The outside visual condition appears to be the only clue... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It vibrated like a mother. pretty simple really. | ||
| Creature_x1 |
GUYS, GUYS!!! Stop this drilling nonsense. There is no need to work so hard! Find your local Drag Specialties dealer (can find the closest one online) and order part # DS-243515 . They are abundant and available for $19.95 msrp. | ||
| Jramsey |
Drag Specialties = made in china, no thanks.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Wake Up America !!! Harley-Davidson is not 100% made in AMERICA any more, much less our BUELLs !!! ie: the "BIG" Shock recall and who knows what else ??? | ||
| Radon30 |
Sorry, for hijacking thread but im tired of hearing that statement. Wake up people, the more american you buy the more it helps our economy, not some other country. Have you seen our economy lately, hmmm it is those people who say they refuse to buy American because we make crap, it is harder and harder to find things made here, why because everyone wants to make big wages making american pieces but buy crap to save money and not buy their very own product they build because it is to expensive, your paying for people making $1.00/hr instead of your wage of $22.50/hr. It is a vicious circle and were losing the battle right now. | ||
| Buellistic |
Another "THANKS" to our government and big business !!! | ||
| Blackm2 |
Both Buell part # L0501.TA and Harley part #16079-79D have the matching numbers printed on the rubber- LORD J-21920 with the omnipresent-----Made In China |
