| Author | Message | ||
     Preybird1 |
Ok it finally happened the pushrod seal's on the front cylinder at the bottoms are leaking. Dam i should have put new seals in there when i did the front exhaust valve, They looked ok and were pretty pliable so i thought they were ok  Dam now i have to go in and replace them now. I was wondering about the billet one that Al sells at American Sport Bike? Is it better? How long do the seals normally last, Lifespan? Here is the one AL sell's http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16056.html I cant remember if i have to take the head off to remove the push rods. I have to check the FSM. Any advise? | ||
| Sportyeric |
You only have to take off the rocker box to get the pushrods out. I have buggered up in the past by not seating the retaining piece for the seal on the pin that holds it in place on the back, thereby tightening it a bit cocked. Could your problem be that simple? | ||
| Creature_x1 |
those are great. So are the zippers adjustable pro taper pushrods and billet bases here http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/showpr oduct.asp?cat=853&prod=1904. They aren't quick install, but they are awesome. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
I don't understand what you mean buy "They aren't quick install"??? I thought quick install meant you have enough space to adjust the pushrod small enough to slip in w/ the collapsed push rod tube. Than you can adjust pushrods. Extend you tube covers, snap in the keeper and your done. With out taking the rocker boxes off and off coarse taking giant bolt cutters to the stock tubes and pushrods. | ||
| Kyrocket |
If you're going to take out the whole cover and not just the push rod itself then you will have to remove the head, especially if you're going to use the one piece bases. Mine are on their way from Al right now. That's going to be a pain 'cause didn't you just do this procedure? You'll just have to go down to the cylinders this time though to install both bases. Good luck. | ||
| Dfbutler |
Kyro, you don't have to take the heads off to do push rods/tubes, but you do have to take off the rocker boxes. Here's a major hit: GLUE THE GASKETS IN WITH SUPERGLUE the night before and with luck they won't roll out and leak. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Yeah, after I thought about that for a while I realized that wasn't the case. I've never had to take mine out until now but I'm having the flywheels pressed out tomorrow so I've had to tear all the way down. | ||
| Creature_x1 |
to install the pro taper pushrods, you still have to remove the rockers. The adjusters on the pushrods are short to keep the strength up. The seals on the base are HUGE when compared to the stock ones, and are reusable. Good set up for big cams. | ||
| Preybird1 |
AAARRRGG What P.I.T.A installing these stupid lower seals. Nobody ever mentioned how much getting this right is a sh%$^& job. Those dam seals roll out non-stop AARRRGGGGG I had to use a little 90 degree angle pick and massage them up into the base as i was tightening, And what did you guys use for lubing these little devils up. AARRGGG It took me 2 hours to get these f'in seals to not roll out when clamped down Finally success got em in and clamped flush  | ||
| Kilroy |
I gave up on the billet ones after about 2 hours and got some stockers to put back in. Those billet ones are nice, but damn near impossible to get in right. And, when you think you have them right, put everything back together, and crank it up only to see oil start up weep out around the base, knowing you have to strip it down again to get at them, they suddenly become not so nice. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Which pushrod kit are you guys using??? | ||
| Preybird1 |
The NRHS billet base kit form American Sport Bike | ||
| Preybird1 |
oh yeah when i got the old seals out the were hard crispy and crumbly i was amazed how long they lasted after i re-built the the front exhaust valve and and seal's. And when i put the head back together i am now realizing that i just jammed the push rod cover's into the bottom and just tightened the head down, i didn't even remove the bases What a moron i was!!!! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
USE SUPERGLUE!!! Also just spread a thin film of oil on the tubes before you slide them into the base. It works, I've done it many times...no leaks. Brad | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Great.. I've got the billet bases waiting to be installed. Now you all have me worried that its gonna be a really pita job. I'm already dreading assembling the intake manifold and gaskets. I've never had good luck with those in the past. | ||
| Loki |
What Bluz said. Don't even try to assemble them dry. Mine have been leak free since I installed them. The second time. Not only did they roll, I pinched them and the leak ensued. In fact a second set are being installed on the other bike this week. The RS already has them, then S1 is getting them. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Intake manifold is cake just cut off an allen wrench or buy the tool from AL @ American Sport Bike. I tried putting them in all oily, dry , And half and half, I tried the old bases still nada! I think its because the base,s are so sharp i.e. not de-burred at all!! The stock ones at least have a smooth lip to pass over on the inner area of the base. I will have to try the superglue on the rear next time i need to re-do the rear base | ||
| Preybird1 |
Ok guys the push rod seals are officially hard as hell to get them installed and not leaking! I got 20 miles before these started pissing all over no sweating just pissed all over and i am not going to do this B.S. job again.......I am going with the zipper collapsible push rod tubes and base kit this is far better than dicking around with this old seal B.S. Whoever came up with this backwards backwater design should be bit@# slapped by the planet!!! Stupid stupid design |
