| Author | Message | ||
     14d |
About a mile from the house on the way to work, my bike started making a loud rattling noise and running like crap. I took her home keeping the rpms low, and took the car to work. Went out to look at it today and found the front header is missing one nut and the other one is about 1/2way out.   I was planning on putting new studs and gaskets in when I did the the XB rocker box conversion (still waiting on a rear cover) but looks like I'll be doing it today or tomorrow. Whats the best way to get the old studs out? | ||
| Limitedx1 |
spray em down first, then i would either try to double nut them and get them out easy, or the vise grips would come out. if you spray it down and let it sit overnight it will owrk wonders, spray with a penetrating lube or wd40, or break free, the double nut trick should work | ||
| Buellistic |
First you assemble correctly(this INFO not in FSM, meaning the REAL HOW TO) ... If still having stay together problems, the option then is SAFETY WIRE or double nut ... "i" have never had these problems with my BUELL ... Of course "i" do my on work !!! | ||
| Guell |
i would use heat, and pb blaster | ||
| Oldog |
that stud does not look broken the retaining ring is visible! | ||
| Oldog |
If you wish to change them double nut and red loctite the nuts allow the loctite to set pb blaster is ok I used an air impact and deep socket to remove them after double nutting and loctite any bending motion / moment will likely break them | ||
| Brinnutz |
At least your stud is still there... | ||
| Kalali |
I have made it a habit of going around all visible nuts and bolts on my X1 at least once a week during high riding season. A habit I acquired from owning old British sports cars. Last time I did the drill, two of the headers nuts were loose. I am sure both of them would have worked themselves free in another few hundred miles... | ||
| Limitedx1 |
i check mine often as well. when you start your bike in the shed and shit falls off the shelves, lord knows what kind of vibes are going through the bolts lol | ||
| 14d |
Got the front studs out no problem. The rears are seized pretty good so I'm letting them sit and the lube work till tomorrow. At least they're not broken, I'll have to make sure i check them more often in the future. | ||
| Buellistic |
The header gaskets you want to use are GASKET,exhaust port PN 17048-98 ... | ||
| Fullauto |
Rather than Loctite, I always put a non seize type grease on the studs when I refit the nuts. I'd rather check their tightness every once in a while than have broken corroded studs to remove. Works for me. | ||
| 14d |
I put anti seize on the front exhaust studs, wish someone had on the rear ones cause those suckers are stuck! I'm gonna grab some better form of spray lubricant (silicone and wax based are the only ones around) and let it soak in tonight. I got the gaskets from AS, http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5931.html are those the ones you speak of? | ||
| Sloppy |
If you're loosening the nuts it means that something else is wrong. You'll NEED to rehang the headers. Loosen everything up (Headers, clamp and mufflers) and snug everything from the bottom up. Once everything is snug, then torque from bottom up. If you don't do this you will soon have a BROKEN exhaust stud. Standard torque on exhaust nut is sufficient and loctite is not required AS LONG AS THE EXHAUST IS PROPERLY HUNG. | ||
| Buellistic |
TOP DOWN !!! 106,551.0 miles as of the last ride with out any stud problems !!! | ||
| 14d |
Picked up some PB blaster, should have the rear studs out in a bit. Sloppy, I already have the complete exhaust system off, as I'm replacing The exhaust header gaskets and studs. Top down is the way I'll be torqueing it. I'd planned on doing all this to the exhaust system when I do the XB rocker box conversion at which time I would also do the oil pump drive gear and wrap my pipes. Looks like I'll have to pull the exhaust off again in the near future.  | ||
| Buellistic |
14d: TORQUE'ING COMPOUND ON THREADS !!! Everything finger tight from studs(equal threads each stud) to end of exhaust system ... Max. torque on studs 6 ft. lbs. ... Do 2 ft. lbs., then 4 ft. lbs., finishing with 6 ft.lbs . ... Then working to end of exhaust system per torque specs. ... This way the COLLECTOR END when tightening the EXHAUST HEADER studs the collector end moves into the muffler inlet ... Other wise if you tighten the muffler inlet clamp first and then the exhaust header stud nuts it causes a stress bend on the header, THINK ABOUT IT !!! (Message edited by buellistic on February 27, 2009) | ||
| Creature_x1 |
At the shop 'm in, we ALWAYS use anti-seize on the exhaust studs. They don't come loose on our customers unexpectedly, and we have year-round riding season in Texas. | ||
| Sloppy |
Hmmm, difference of opinion here - I won't say yours is wrong, but my method works too. My shop tech told me BOTTOM UP and it's worked that way for 35,000 miles with NEVER a loose nut with out safety wire, back nuts or anything! In addition I don't break the race muffler bracket which USED to happen when I didn't follow the bottom up method. When I think about it, if you start from the bottom up, the hangers on the muffler would support the weight of the header's mass and hence remove as much stress as possible from the exhaust studs. From top down, you're asking for the exhaust studs to support the mass and movement of the muffler... Tomato, Tomahto? Who knows. I'll stick with bottom up but if top down works for you then go for it! Perhaps the important part is that the tightening is done in a continuous linear method. You have now left the "exhaust stud rumor club" | ||
| Billetmetallic |
maybe it could be bottom up once the header is torqued? | ||
| 14d |
Looks like i got the problematic gaskets, will have to order the right ones. Still can't get the rear studs out, even after several liberal dowsing's of PB Blaster and soaking overnight. Looks like I'll have to get out the vice grips. Hopefully dealer has the gaskets, this is prime riding before it gets too hot. | ||
| Billetmetallic |
there is a socket set that you can get that will remove studs. pretty nifty little tool set, studs can be removed or installed easily http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp? cattype=T&cat=2222 | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Have you upgraded to the Y-hanger? | ||
| 14d |
No I haven't, was going to but ran out of money for now. Is it worth the 125? I've put about 400 miles on it since I got the muffler repaired and haven't had any problems. I couldn't get the rear studs out. I'm going to have to get one of those stud remover tools and do it when I do the oil pump drive gear and what not. |
