| Author | Message | ||
     Blackm2 |
Doing some work on the bike and noticed the front isolator is starting to tear on the underside. Going through the old posts I can't get a grip on which is the correct part number to get. I do not want to drill out a brand new isolator. What are my options please? Also, do I need to remove the bracket from the head to do this or can I just put it on stands, support the engine and r&r the isolator. 2001 Cyclone 22,000 miles. Thanks. | ||
| Oldog |
Call Al at American Sport Bike hes got em you will get the right one. | ||
| Sloppy |
Your local HD shop will not have the correct part -- it can be modified, but not the correct part. HD shops carry the -C model, but you need the -B which HD shops no longer carry as it is obsolete. You need to go to a Buell dealership or, as suggested, one of the sponsers here to get you the correct part. While you're buying the isolator, also buy a Factory Service Manual. HD / Buell puts out some of the best manuals so if you don't have it, get it! Removal is straightforward. DO NOT REMOVE THE BRACKET!!! Put a jack under the front shock bracket, remove the 3 isolator bolts, and reassemble. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: -79D !!! Buy from American Sport Bike for your needs !!! | ||
| Jramsey |
-79D + 1 Buellistic Its worth drilling/reaming effort. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Why is it worth drilling? And do you know what size bit? Should I replace that center bolt through the isolator? Thanks again! | ||
| Brinnutz |
Wait, the front ISO I got from Al I have to drill? Dammit, I don't have all the tools for all these damn jobs. | ||
| Tdman77 |
American Sport Bike has them. and check out this site for your service manual it's free! http://www.manualz.info/ | ||
| Gowindward |
I believe this is the current Buell p/n for the front isolator L0501.2 and no it does not need to be drilled. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
I just did mine last year, the local chopper shop ordered the drag specialties FXR front iso, it was a -79 part number and cost 20 bucks, dropped right in with the stock Buell hardware. | ||
| Slc4me |
Is there an isolator out there that is stiffer than factory? | ||
| Gowindward |
Mine failed this last fall at very low miles. I did a bunch of research and I came up with the OEM part being the best out there. Take a look at this old thread and some ideas to solve the problem. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=47623&page=406099 | ||
| Kalali |
Is "tearing/cracking" of the black plastic the only sign that the isolator is going bad? I am just trying to understand why folks are replacing them at such low miles. I looked at mine last night (X1 with 14K miles) and it "looks" fine with no visible signs of cracks or tears, etc. Anything else to watch for? Thanks. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: On the ISOLATOR there will be a part number, ie: 16207-79D ... If it is not, it is not the STRONGEST(best) ISOLATOR !!! The ISOLATOR must set on the mount with no stress other than the engine hanging from it ... | ||
| Gowindward |
LaFayette, Why is that a better part? | ||
| Buellistic |
Because the SYNTHETIC RUBBER COMPOUND is of BETTER quality ... That is why the original PART NUMBER 16207-79 has now improved(up-dated) to a -79"D" ... This means it has had to be improved because of the STRESS that the later engines have put on it which makes it even better for the my older 1997 S3T and 2000 BLAST(P3) ... The BLAST engine is much harder on the ISOLATOR than the TUBE FRAME engines because it is a SINGLE ... It has now been PRODUCT IMPROVED a total of 4 times now(A thru D) ... | ||
| Gowindward |
LaFayette, I respect your lifetime of experiences with these motorbikes, but I think you should take a look at this. Look down towards the middle of the post and see Al Lighton comments. http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/16 2434.html?1195065654 It seems as though the -79D has taken a revision path (splitting away at Rev C)that does not include use on our beloved Buells. (Message edited by gowindward on January 30, 2009) | ||
| Oldog |
Kalali: the rubber will rip and then "distend" (bulge) down the rubber and steel seprate the initial build one lasted about that long,about 22K miles the first replacement about 18 months 5 or 10 K I think. I posted up on it with pix I should get some aly and try that stablizer listed on the link above, the only thing that I can see is it removes any twisting moment from the Iso and makes it straight up and down. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks Oldog. Is there any way to increase their life expectancy, say by keeping the rubber more pliable, etc.? I am also assuming the isolator life is very dependent on the riding style and road conditions, e.g., wheelies, stoppies, pot holes, etc. | ||
| Oldog |
Several have made a brace from the top mount to the iso top bolt. treating the rubber ? I cant see that helping, IMO keep the bolts tight, check the rear isos once in a while, and if you are unhappy with the life of the mount consider the strut. I will be interested in Goingwindwards' comments after he has put some miles on his, several who have made and installed the strut say it helps calm the vibe. YMMV | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
The brace appears to place the isolator bolt in double shear, thereby reducing flexing in the bolt and front motor mount as the motor rocks fore and aft. By holding the through bolt in double shear, the the bolt will remain at 90 degrees in relation to the isolator and forces on the isolator would be free of the distortion that could be caused if the bolt flexes back and forth. That is probably why motor mount head bolts are said to last longer with the top brace installed. I am planning to make one for my M2. | ||
| Buellistic |
Gowindward: The reason Al(and HE is completely correct) stated that on the post that you are referring to is because the FRONT MOTOR MOUNT ISOLATOR is a "RETRO FIT" from a BIG TWIN plate form where the engine "SETS" on it(isolator) where the TUBE FRAME and BLAST BUELLs ""HANG" FROM IT ... That is why they RIP apart, now the "BIGGER" BIG TWIN engines started to do the same thing to the -79C and earlier ISOLATORS and that is why they are now -79D ... Now some times you have to IMPROVISE a little to get the BETTER part to FIT/WORK, "BUT" it is the worth the effort !! | ||
| Gowindward |
"Now some times you have to IMPROVISE a little to get the BETTER part to FIT/WORK, "BUT" it is the worth the effort !!"Yes, sometimes you do have to improvise!  |
