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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through April 02, 2009 » CV carb idles like $#(^! « Previous Next »

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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Buellers, I think my 02 M2 has the dreaded intake seals leaking. I idles like crap and I can't take the choke off until it's very hot. Then it idles OK but it likes to pop on deceleration. Should try tighting up on the flanges or just pull it apart and replace??? Thanks
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Brinnutz
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you know it is in fact the seals. Replace.

Use these, I heard good things about them.


http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=pH26258 &leafCatId=&mmyId=
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 10:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The INTAKE seals should be replaced at 2 years or 4 years if you have a fan ...
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Guys! I guess their due.
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brinnutz, are the blue intake seals an up-grade from stock??? Atleast they're cheap
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Hippyjoe
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The way to check your intake seals is get it idling and spray some carb cleaner around the flanges. If they are leaking they will suck in the solvent and the idle will change dramatically.

If it's idling poorly it could also just be trash or water in the float bowl. The quick way to check that is with a long flat screwdriver... first turn off the gas at the petcock, open the drain screw and catch the gas in a small container, and see what it looks like.
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The popping on deceleration is an exhaust leak, probably at the muffler/elbow junction or muffler/header junction.
Joe
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was going to spray my intake seals but I was afraid of turning my bike into a fire bomb but I guess I can try it while it's cold. Bad Karma, I went over the exhaust and it's as tight as a drum w/ a VH muffler. The bike was running great last summer then I let it sit for a month. Next time I fired it up it started running bad at idle then a few more rides and the popping started.
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F_skinner
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try the easy things first, make sure the exhaust is tight at the headers and check your plugs.

I recommend changing your gaskets but only if they need it. I am betting you have a fouled plug.
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use Gasket,exhaust port PN 17048-98 as the 65324-83B are not worth a crap !!!
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F_skinner
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And cheaper too...
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a full gasket set (unopened)from JIMS #2011-1001. Do you guys think the gaskets in this set are any good or should I buy the other ones. F skinner, I checked the header bolts ,all tight and plugs are the fancier ones (forgot the numbers) but the bike runs strong after it's hot. It just pops on decel or maybe you can call it a pucker. It's not real loud but it wasn't their before
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F_skinner
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess it depends on how long you have had the gaskets and how they were stored. The part number Buellistic recommends is the way to go for the exhaust port. The only way to know which to replace is to do like others have suggest, it will not go up in flames.

If you are going to replace the exhaust gaskets you may want to replace the manifold gasket as well. These things only last a couple of years depending on use.
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Koz5150
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Plugs, plugs, plugs.... I go through this about once a year on my bike.
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Texastechx1
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fuel has gummed up your carb... very very common for a bike that has been sittin. I've worked at multiple dealers and this happens every spring when someone takes their bike out of storage. the symptoms are even spot on!

pull your jets and blow some air threw them or strong carb cleaner. then put it back in and run a full tank of fuel+sea foam and it should be good as new... unless its a real bad gum up job.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 12:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct amount of STP in your gas tank every 5K miles does wonders for you fuel system, "PLUS" your valve guides get lube'ed too which makes your engine run smoother ...
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Joesbuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 05:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another way to check if your manifold seals are leaking is to start it from cold and place your hands on the exhaust headers, if you have a leak you will have one cold header and one hot header ; )

Too easy
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 07:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Texas, since that is where this bike is from originally SA. I think this may be my problem. I didn't know the cv where that sensitive. The bike also sat for a year in San Antonio but I manage to blow it out by driving like a Bueller. I had the plugs out and checked for spark all good. Now should I pull the carb or do it on the bike???
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F_skinner
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Texas is right. clean clean and clean.... While you have it apart get a rebuild kit.

Riding a tuber is all about preventative maintenance.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 106,551.0 miles as of the last ride, IMHO proves PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE to work $$$.$$ wise !!!
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would give a shout out for caution if the fuel is stale and smells like turpentine. This is no longer gasoline and the varnish-like crud that deposits out on everything it touches, like the idle jet, becomes a sticky glue-like substance that also gets sucked into the intake valve guides and can cause the intake valves to stick and pushrods to bend. Big Time!

The bent pushrods happened not once but twice to a '65 Dodge slant six engine I was rebuilding until I realized that the gas tank still had rotten stale gas in it. It wasn't until I got the gas tank renovated and the intake valves & guides degummed that the car would run right again.

So, flush out that gas tank and clean the carb jet passages with a good carb spray if the gas smells bad.
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Texastechx1
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have bad luck with ALL carbs when I leave them in storage. lawn mowers, dirt bikes, harleys, old jap bikes, old cars, etc. get some stabil stuff from autozone, its a couple of bucks and you don't have to use much at all to treat a gas tank on a bike. just a lil in, go for one last short ride to get it into the carb, and then let her hibernate till its warm again.

X2 on the STP, thats some good stuff, one bottle in a full gas tank at every oil change for me!
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I FIXED IT YAh! Texas hit it right on the head. Drained it, hit it with Gum Out in all the ports and I saw some crap come out. Put it back together and she runs like a champ!!! I still plan on dropping the oil pump and gear. Just waiting to get some time and money to pick up that new pump. THANKS GUYS!!! You were all a big help
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