| Author | Message | ||
     Brinnutz |
Ok, going to be pulling the motor soon...God help me, I'm doing it solo, since there isn't anyone that has any expertise anywhere near me. So, these are the things I've been told to do. 1. Replace swingarm bearings with XB sealed bearings. Can I do this without that Jim's tool, or any specialty tool? 2. All paper gaskets. I had them all listed in a thread somewhere, but I lost them. So I'll probably forget. 3. New oil lines. Things I will be doing: X1 Cams NRHS Pushrod bases and tubes Now, for the things I don't know.. I read somewhere that Brad (BluzM2), mentioned something about a double lip crank seal or something. I have no idea. I assume I have to split the cases for that one? Part No.? Tools? | ||
| Buellistic |
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A "FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL" AND PARTS BOOK FOR YOUR YEAR AND MODEL, "GET THEM" !!! even with error you will be better off !!! | ||
| Stevegula |
Any chance I could encourage you to find that list of paper seals and put them in this thread? I'm going to be pulling the motor from my bike in the not too distant future. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I've got both of those!! | ||
| Brinnutz |
Steve, I found it...I think the majority of them are in the thread somewhere...Took me a little while! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/422432.html?1229625645 | ||
| Sloppy |
Crank seal does NOT require you to split cases. It does require a tool to make sure you don't "over seat" the seal - you can make the tool or purchase it. Do a KV search for a detailed description. Since you're going into the primary you may want to rebuild your tranny or get a new one. Do the oil gear swap, replace the intake gaskets and carb seal, use SE exhaust gaskets, change the starter motor gasket and rocker box gasket - these are the biggest leak culprits. Also make sure you lube your steering bearings -- it's FAR more trouble to replace them than it is to lube them! Have fun... | ||
| Kyrocket |
I'm there with you Brinnutz. I've already taken the top end off and will be dropping the bottom end out after my stands get here around the end of the month at latest. I've got some big ideas as long as the money holds out, depends on what I find when I split the cases. I plan on upgrading all I can that hasn't already been done. Upgrading to a 1250 when the rebuild starts, putting back all black with a few aluminum farkles, I never did like those chrome push rod tubes much. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, you should up-grade the oil pump to PN 26357-02B !!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
I don't see that you need to open up the primary side. Leave the crank seal until it fails (if it does). I've got 50k miles on the Buell and 85k miles on the Sportster without that happening. If it ain't broke.... Ditto the tranny. It takes about 30 minutes to remove the tranny from start to finish.Leave it. Replace the oil pump drive gear while you're in the cam case. You can reuse the rubber rocker box gaskets if you freeze them when you take them out so they don't swell up. But you probably want to replace them while you're at it, in which case you just buy the top-end gasket set complete (which is staggeringly expensive)(maybe $100). | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Brin, Ping me offline. I have info for you... Brad | ||
| Brinnutz |
Brad, Done... | ||
| Easy_rider |
Wilson, My crank seal didn't blow until I got in a hurry and overfilled my oil. Since it can be changed relatively easily another day with the engine in the bike I'm with Sportyeric - there's nothing to gain by doing it now. If you do decide to change it, give me a call and I'll send you the instructions/pics I downloaded from the badweb along with what I learned to do and not do along the way (5 months later and I've still got numbness where my finger got pinched). | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I'm keeping an eye on this thread too. I just acquired an '02 X1 with a broken connecting rod so I'll be balls deep soon enough. Wilson, this year at homecoming we'll have to exchange horror stories about our motor pulls  What method are you using to lift the rear of the bike? If I remember correctly you use the same center stand that I have, but my manual says that the footpegs have to be removed to allow clearance for the motor to come out. | ||
| Ducxl |
IMHO, you should up-grade the oil pump to PN 26357-02B !!! Ahhhh-HAA!!! THIS is the question i've been asking.So "i" can upgrade this pump into my '99 X1 without modification? I'm just now preparing to do this chore. A blown oil pump drive is NASTY Wilson,you'll need to remove the old outer bearing race from the swingarm before installing a new bearing.You should stick with the stock bearing IMHO. | ||
| Ducxl |
Tuber oil pump discussion Your oil pump must be inspected for failure | ||
| Buellistic |
For those of you that have the Pre-Aluminium swing arm, have you'll thought about a grease fitting ??? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Buellistic's suggestion was to up-grade the oil pump. They say it pumps more, or something. I guess it was up-graded for a reason but it's never been on my list of things to spend money on. The important thing to change is the drive gear for it. | ||
| Buellistic |
It was up-graded on the XB's because of the top end is shrouded by the Hi-Tech frame(plus they have a FAN) ... "SO", if you run your TUBE FRAME hard and ride in traffic it is a "PLUS" for oil circulation and oil cooling ... | ||
| Brinnutz |
Ok, one thing... Maybe someone can help out. I can't remember when, but I was a stop light and attempted a burnout, but the wheel wouldn't break free...So, I tried again. Anyways, something made a funny noise the first attempt, but nothing extremely loud or anything. I rode the next mile home, and at the next stop light, the right side of my rear tire was COVERED in oil. I replaced the cam cover gasket, but it still leaks from somewhere around the right side of the motor...Any ideas? | ||
| Easy_rider |
For an S3, that's where the transmission vent line is routed. It will spout oil if the dreaded crank seal is blown. Your symptoms seem a bit heavy for a blown seal, though. Take a quick look just to be sure. | ||
| F_skinner |
Brin, stop doing burn outs! Seriously, I did the same thing, actually a combination of two things that blew my seal. Overfilled with oil and was doing burn outs at every stop light. I did not notice it and was flying down a back road and when I came up to a town and hit the front and rear brake I did some interesting things. My rear tire was covered. It does sound like the crank seal. I think you should replace it but like all have said check the KV for the proper tool or make your own. After you do it you will see how simple it is. Frank | ||
| Tombo |
Wilson, another consideration is to replace the top two pieces of your rocker boxes with the single xb top and eliminate a gasket entirely. Also, check your isolators and wheel bearings. If you really want to bulletproof you can upgraded your front motor mount to a 96 S1 mount, which is a more solid piece but hard to find, and add a Stentzel (not sure of the spelling) bar. The bar makes a solid connection between the motor and the top of the motor mount and it is sold by a company in Germany. There are a few other things I did but they are probably overkill. By the way, you can buy machined alloy bases that work with your stock pushrod tubes, which is much cheaper unless you are using adjustable pushrods. TJ | ||
| Brinnutz |
I've ridden about 6-7,000 miles with it since it did that...oops. Even up to Homecoming this year... Roger, I will definitely be checking those lines out!! Frank, But their fun and the burning rubber smells, OH SO GOOD!! I have a line on the tool that someone is going to let me borrow. I need Torque Wrenches now... Tombo, Been thinking about the XB Rocker Box conversion...Not a priority atm, I replaced the gaskets and they're still holding strong. I've picked up a Stenzel bar, and all of my motor mounts need replacing... I have the NRHS billet pushrod tube clamps or whatever I will be installing also... =) | ||
| Brinnutz |
No go on the cams now...unless I can find some pretty cheap! | ||
| Brinnutz |
What's the crank seal updated part number? I can't find it, and I found a harley shop online that offers a continuous 20% every parts/accessories order!!! I can't post it since they aren't a sponsor, but maybe someone should see about getting them on here. 20% off all the time! Thanks | ||
| Buellistic |
Brinnutz: You do not have to have the LATEST PN because when you tell the HARLEY-DAVIDSON Parts Person a PART NUMBER, they pull it up on the computer screen and it automatically gives them the latest UP-DATED PART NUMBER ... "AND" THE EVO SPORTSTER ENGINES USE THE SAME OIL SEAL, "SO" you should be able to go to any HARLEY-DAVIDSON Dealer which should stock them !!! The last time "i" replaced mine, the part number was PN 35151-74A(the "A" meaning it has been up-dated once) selling for $7.20 plus tax on 20th March 2004 ... This is why BUELLers should buy the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, "PLUS" the PARTS BOOK for your YEAR and MODEL BUELL ... Then you can up-date part numbers and record the price you paid at the time of purchase ... (Message edited by buellistic on January 21, 2009) | ||
| Brinnutz |
LaFayette, I know that, but as I said I'm shopping online for it and the nearest Buell dealer is 2 hrs away, so I don't have your luxury, which is why I have to ask. And thanks for the p/n | ||
| Buellistic |
Brinnutz: "JUST" being over helpful ... | ||
| Brinnutz |
Tis never a bad thing...but I was just lettin ya know. =) | ||
| Brinnutz |
Oh, and Brad, I've tried replying to your emails, but they keep getting sent back...??? |
