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Reducati
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hi, i just recently picked up a 98 s1, with the rattling front brake rotor...i talked to my dealer, and am going to put on ebc front rotor...he suggested i also put new pads on ...is this necessary? thanks in advance. dan
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

depending on pad condition, and life left

Depending on condition a week or two this time of year for most folks makes no difference.
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would, you don't want the rotor to seat to shape of the pads, I would get new on new only!! If you tight wad it! At least buffer the pads down so there is no more old wear visible and the pads are uniformly smooth. If you don't you can develop a squeak, Pad slap or worse damage the new rotor by uneven pressure of the pad contact area on the rotor. I even tried running my front rotor on the brake lathe and it worked so-so the warping was gone for a couple months but over all it was not a good idea to do that! Rotor hot spots dont like lathe bits they tend to chip out!

OLDDOG +1 to condition of pads
Also i would use a really good organic pad if rotor life is what your after, If not ceramic pads, But they are harder on rotors
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Reducati
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks i appreciate the tips.. the pads are not that old, but ill follow your sage advise.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Before you try to take off the rotor:
Use a brass drift and give each of the mounting bolts a good whack.
This will break the threadlocker loose.

The official word is that you need to buy a new set of bolts each time but I have reused mine many times.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, December 28, 2008 - 12:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not re surface the pads!

The dust would be most unhealthy,

unless you have a milling machine, you cant keep them flat enough by hand any way.

If the pads are worn unevenly by more than a tiny amount then there are likely other problems to check for.

the 6 piston caliper can have issues with brake dust baking on the pistons causing dragging and "hangup" due to the pistons jamming, this happens when the pads are changed with out cleaning the pistons prior to pushing them back into the caliper body.

I used a shoe string and lots of brake cleaner once the pads are off of the rotor, the idea is to get the pistons out just a bit farther and douse and scrub them with the shoe string to remove the residue.

I also suggest a sharp rap with a hammer on a soft drift or the allen wrench to break the locktite, I replace my bolts but Like Nate I wonder why its needed.

I want to remember that the bolts have a locking patch on them I may be wrong here.
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