| Author | Message | ||
     Malott442 |
Picked it up last week. Thanks to Tripp for the tip, can't wait to get her together.     Just so people could see, these are how the brace would look like polished. 1 is just polished on the face using mouse sander, the other is mouse sanded, ground down on seams, and hand sanded. It represents 2 different looks, and I'm sure there are people who wonder what it looks like.... So here ya go! The first took about 90 minutes, the next took about 150 minutes. | ||
| 80rs427 |
Matt, nice find! You'll enjoy tinkering with it, and the guys on this site are great at offering help and advice. Do you have any more details? How does it run? What are your plans for it? | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Sweet looking ride. Interesting enough, I have always been told an X1 header wouldn't fit on an S1W. Does the header look like it has been modified to fit? | ||
| Jos51700 |
Black on Black is fairly rare! | ||
| Court |
Rarer yet was the S1W Black Lightning". Karen Davidson has one. | ||
| Malott442 |
Well, the header is from a M2 I believe. It is dented on the rear header under the frame.... But the isolators were GONE, ripped in half and the frame was sagging onto motor. Now that they are replaced though, it appears there is just BARELY enough room. I by coincidence have an X1 header that I will be putting on there today. I will take pictures, and let you know. Oh, BTW, M2 header =X1 header minus O2 bung, right? (Message edited by malott442 on November 20, 2008) | ||
| Ratbuell |
M2 header =X1 header minus O2 bung, right? Late M2, that's correct IIRC. Physically, anyway. M2 had black headers, X1 had stainless. Replacing the isolators should have *decreased* frame-to-case clearance, at least in that area. The engine hangs in the isos; when they wear, the engine hangs lower, hence more space. Personally, I'd find the "right" header. I like the curves much better than the straight "T" looking pipe. | ||
| Jos51700 |
M2 had black headers No. Edit:The very first year M2 might have had black header. Later years definitely did not. Replacing the isolators should have *decreased* frame-to-case clearance, at least in that area. The engine hangs in the isos; when they wear, the engine hangs lower, hence more space. No. The rear wheel and engine are all part of the drive "unit". The frame rides "over" the engine, and if rear Iso's fail, the frame sags down around the motor. (Message edited by jos51700 on November 20, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
Court, I sent you a PM with questions about the "Black Lightning" S1W. I guess you didn't get it. Namely, did it have different decals, and/or a different VIN? Thanks, -John | ||
| Ratbuell |
Jos - I'll give you the isolator statement, it makes perfect sense. Forgot momentarily (haven't broken one in a while, LOL) the swingarm hung from the engine case. Sorry to mislead. However. My 99 M2 came from the factory with a black header. My 98 catalog shows a black header on the M2 pictured. Same for the '99 catalog. I'd *guess* 97 did too, but don't have that catalog in the collection. '00 and '01 catalogs both show brushed stainless on the M2, my bad. Call this one a 'draw'?  | ||
| Easy_rider |
I never would have guessed that the braces would look that good polished. Thanks for the pics. | ||
| Court |
Not to worry . . . I am juggling 1484 unread messages since the Mac Genius recovered the hard drive. I'm not sure the badging was different on either the Black Lightning or the "Lightning Strike". The VIN would have been in the same series as the S1W except the "Strike" would have reflected an HDI number. I'll have to go back sometime when time permits to check the detailed build records. | ||
| Jos51700 |
I know the White Lightning only had different badging on *white* White Lightnings. I'd like to know if the "Black Lightning" has a known build number as a seperate model. And Rat, I'll go for Draw! I saw one '97 M2 with a black header, one with a brushed header, and one where the WHOLE BIKE had been painted in black header paint. I just they all came with brushed exhaust except the Blue header on X1W and black mufflers except the S1W. | ||
| 80rs427 |
I just read a bit about the "black lighting" in one of the Battle2win magazines I've got. It had a couple pictures and, as I remember, it said it carried modified decals that read black lighting, and was given to a Buell or HD executive. If I get a chance, I'll go back through the stack and see if I can find it. | ||
| Thejuicer |
Nice to get a look at your new ride...love the black/black look...Josh. | ||
| Buell_bert |
This may seem stupid but what the H is a MOUSE SANDER. And can I get a PIC. Hey Thanks alot. OH by the way the polishing is really cool so now I think I need a MOUSE SANDER. | ||
| Ratbuell |
White Lightnings only got "White" decals if they were painted white? Hm. Never knew that...and mine being Liberace White doesn't help, lol. | ||
| Malott442 |
 It doesn't necessarily have to be that exact one, but a random orbit or buzzzzz sander will do a good job. A belt sander will take the casting seam out quicker, but 80-120 to start on the whole thing will quickly take the factory finish off, even with a buzz/mouse/random/finishing/ orbit sander. The seams take a bit to wear down, and using a grinding stone on a bench grinder will take em away quick (Do not use the front of the stone or you will get uneven surfaces) The side of the wheel will keep it even, just be careful not to fight the rotation of the wheel or it will snatch the thing right out of your hand..... I wouldn't suggest using a grinding stone at all though come to think of it. I just use it a lot and have a feel for it. To be safe I would say just use a sander only, forget I mentioned the stone LOL. I personally say take the few minutes and use a sander all the way, for safety and overall guarantee of truly flat surfaces. After 80-120, go with 220. Then 400. Then 800, then 1500, then 2000. 1500 and 2000 arent required, though I am borderline OCD. Then for buffing use a medium wheel with number 3 polish (clean and finishing/medium polish) followed by a soft wheel with fine polish ('softest' available) Usually 6. The medium wheel will take off the surface of the recessed area and leave it looking really good, as shown in pictures. Also, if you want to round off the corners a little, it doesn't take long and as long as you are smooth and careful, will turn out well. If you are hand sanding the recessed area, this is going to take a while. 120 grit with a small piece and evenly get nooks and crannies. I would suggest running it through the polisher throughout the sanding process as you take the recessed area down to check process. Follow with same grits all the way to 1500 as it was above. Eventually will end up with a very shiny and brilliant piece...... As a final thought, you don't necessarily need a machine to sand this down, it just takes hours upon hours less to have one. Using a sander provides a flat surface of abrasion, creating a smoother and finer appearance. The Buell logo will get sanded as the outer frame is being sanded, leaving the recess with a slight rough finish. When polished, it looks like chrome, just better ! If anyone wants to take on this adventure, just give me a PM with any questions, I will give you my phone numb and you can call during the process. I am always happy to help out a fellow Bueller! Once you get the hang of polishing, you soo realize that it is almost a form of art. There are many ways to polish one item, with each method providing different results. (Message edited by malott442 on November 20, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
White Lightnings only got "White" decals if they were painted white? Hm. Never knew that...and mine being Liberace White doesn't help, lol 'Tis true. My orange/nukeblueframe S1W says only "S1 Lightning" on it, as do all non-white White Lightnings I've ever seen. | ||
| 1313 |
S1W Black Lightning   As you can see the tank decals were similar to the ones off the Molten Orange/Nuclear Blue bikes:   It's hard to tell from this crappy film scanned into digital pic, but the S1 Black Lightning decal was made in the exact same font as the S1 White Lightning decals:   And in real life:  The above bike is S1W VIN # 1 from the Museum at Uke's Harley-Davidon/Buell in Kenosha, WI. The funny thing is I came across an old speeding ticket that I got on that bike and the complete VIN is on the ticket. 1313  | ||
| 1313 |
Colors? With Black Frame:  White White Frame:  With Titanium Frame:  With Nuclear Blue Frame:  And here's the ticket:   1313 | ||
| Ratbuell |
Wow, very cool stuff. Never seen those before - if you're willing, I'd love scans of those frame-color sheets. The only brochure I have for my S1W is the 98 full-line catalog, and it shows/mentions the Ice White over white frame as the only color combo for the White Lightning...mine's all white, but I'm a paperwork freak. Just ask my wife, LOL. ...and 6 points? How much were you exceeding the 'fixed limit' by??? | ||
| Eshardball |
6 points in one shot. Nice work. I just got an $117 increase in my motorcycle premium for a 2 point ticket. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
It's all in the wrist. | ||
| F_skinner |
65 in a 45... Sweet Brankin. Give a young man a bike like that to ride and something bad is going to happen. If I was looking at those posters trying to decide on which to get I think I would get the white frame white body work but the Nuke Blue frame with Metallic body work looks cool as well. Nice piece of history, thanks for posting those Brankin... Frank | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Nice bike Matt! Hmmm, so there is a Black Lightning... or a Black White Lightning... But what is a "Lightning Strike"? I'd always wondered if the name "White Lightning" was making a reference to an earlier v-twin...  | ||
| Ratbuell |
I *believe* the Lightning Strike was the HDI (Harley-Davidson International, or export model) version of the US's White Lightning. | ||
| 1313 |
I scanned the color sheets today and thought everyone would enjoy seeing them in their original glory.     1313 | ||
| Pizzaboy |
Well, the header is from a M2 I believe. It is dented on the rear header under the frame.... But the isolators were GONE, ripped in half and the frame was sagging onto motor. Now that they are replaced though, it appears there is just BARELY enough room. I by coincidence have an X1 header that I will be putting on there today. I will take pictures, and let you know. Oh, BTW, M2 header =X1 header minus O2 bung, right? i did the same thing to my S2 this spring. i have an X1 race exhaust with an original drummer for the tubers. it took a good bit of hammer clearancing to get the frame to stop touching the manifold. i dont have a preference between the new tuber style and old tuber style exhaust... but i do have a preference over stock versus drummer haha | ||
| Skntpig |
Man I love the looks of the White frame with Black Body. I've never seen one in person (Message edited by skntpig on November 23, 2008) |
