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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through December 14, 2008 » Advice on S1 suspension adjustments « Previous Next »

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Billetmetallic
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm looking for, as the title states, advice on "setting up" my suspension on my S1, i have everything set up according to stock, with recall updates. Is there a book, pdf, email, or experienced person here on bad web that will help me understand better where to start and finish with the available adjustments on the S1? Im pretty sure I could get a suspension better suited to my weight and riding style rather than just keep riding my bike the way it is, i just dont know the best place to start, any advice is greatly appreciated!
-g
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First question is, do you have the manual?

Next, either PM me or post in the thread what you'd like to change about your suspension / ride characteristics - is it too hard? Too soft? Wallowing in turns? Turning in too quickly? Too slowly? Bottoming out? Chattering over bumps (feels like "skating" towards the outside)?

Suspension setup is basic. Each end on a stock bike has compression and rebound adjustments you can make. Compression controls how fast the wheel bounces up if it hits a bump. Set it firm, the wheel fights against the road if it hits a bump, and instead of the suspension soaking it up with wheel travel, it goes right into the frame and into your tukus and wrists. Too soft, and the wheel can 'bounce' off the road too fast / too far, feeling like a pogo stick.

Rebound is how fast the suspension puts the wheel back on the ground after the compression. Again, too hard and you can get chatter through turns and over bumps. Too soft and you get that pogo feeling and a wallowing in turns.

The rear suspension adds a spring preload adjustment to the mix. Mainly this helps keep you from bottoming out over dips, and from flying off the seat over bumps. There is a "sag" setting in the manual to help you zero in on a base setting for your geared-up bodyweight; if you don't have it (I think the S1 manual is posted here somewhere, though) let me know and I can pull mine and quote from it.

Rear preload also affects turn-in (going from a straight line into a turn). Not enough sag (spring set firm, rear end riding 'higher'), and the bike will get darty and turn in quickly/suddenly. Too much sag (the rear of the bike riding 'low', a soft setting) and the front end can turn in lazy and you really have to fight with it to get it to drop in. Some folks like quick, some folks like relaxed...personal choice plays a big part.

Sorry if that was waay to basic; I like to start at the beginning, though. Comes from my days teaching college, you never know what page the kids are on coming into class for the first time : ) I'm also no help when it comes to "what setting in the book should I use?" - both my tubers have aftermarket rear shocks, and every rider has a different preference. I start all my bikes based on my weight, and for probably a couple weeks I ride, and pay attention to the behavior. A notepad in my pocket with a Gerber multitool, and I track my changes. A tweak here, twist there. After a little time and experimentation, I get it dialed in.

The most important thing: make ONE change at a time. That allows you to evaluate "action X resulted in Y". If Y is in the right direction, do more X. If Y is in the wrong direction, undo X and either go -X (if Y was the opposite of your desired result), or try Z and see what happens.

It's the best, and worst, thing about having a Buell. Setup takes a lot of tinkering...but once it's right, oh BABY is it right : )
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Billetmetallic
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 01:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do have the manual, i just didnt quite understand where to begin with adjustment, this is my first bike, however, i have clocked a bit of ride time on it, enough that I really want to start messing with the suspension to see what its all about, but i dont want to mess it up either. Thanks for the excellent explanation of each setting. I think that i might want to begin with a quicker turn in.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't worry about messing anything up - the adjustments are there for a reason, and you won't break anything, especially if you do things gradually and one at a time. Just remember not to force any of the adjuster screws - if they bottom out or top out, don't force them any further. *Lightly* bottom the screws to start your settings, and as *soon* as they top out (if you go that far), stop turning.

Start with a baseline, per the manual, for your bodyweight in full riding attire. Ride it. See what you do/don't like about it. Make ONE adjustment to try and compensate for ONE feature you don't like, ride again, repeat. If nothing else, it's a great chance to make a lot of short little runs on your favorite road : )

Another thing I forgot to mention - make sure you have proper tire pressures before trying any of this stuff. If not...all the adjustments you just made to your suspension? Worthless, as soon as you put the right air pressure in. Added benefit? You'll really be able to tell when your tires are off pressure, once the suspension is dialed in the way you like it.

(Message edited by ratbuell on December 01, 2008)
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Billetmetallic
Posted on Monday, December 01, 2008 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks a lot Rat, i really appreciate it!
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Skntpig
Posted on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rat is right.

Start with tire pressure. You will feel a difference right away.

Then set your sag or preload on the shock. The manual does a pretty good job explaining that.

Then ride and make small adjustments to only one place. Don't go 4 clicks as you might pass the right spot. I would only go 1 or 2 clicks at a time max.

You would be surprised how many streetbikes have everything set too stiff for even the track. Most don't even use half of the travel.

I would start on with pretty soft comp and reb dampening and gradually increase one at a time.

It shouldn't take you long to get it right. If you get stuck just post the condition so we can try to give suggestions.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad to help out, please keep us apprised of your progress. Us S1 guys are starting behind the proverbial 8-ball anyway, what with the "one cheek seat", LOL.
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Skntpig
Posted on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The one cheek seat just makes for an easy transition when you get that knee down.
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Eshardball
Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That has to be the only benefit, as a well sanded and urethaned piece of wood might be just as comfortable
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