| Author | Message | ||
     Xodot |
While replacing the lower rocker cover of the front cylinder, I snapped a bolt off at the front of the cylinder head. I anticipate removing the head to get at the bolt because it is the front bolt and not directly accessible where it is now. Removing the head seems quite straight forward in the factory manual. Are there any tricks you know of? This will be all new territory for me on my S3. I am a little confused by the directions for supporting the engine during removal. I was intending to support it with a jack beneath the front of the muffler.Is there a better way? I hope to get some advice or directed to a golden thread in the KV. Thanks boys!  The bad bolt is about center of this picture, just behind the front isolator mount. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
If you pull the head, the muffler will not be there... I has to come off to remove the header. Just use a board and a bottle jack under the motor to support it while the front head is off. You may be able to get the broken bolt out with a left handed drill bit. Craftsman also makes a screw remover that works quite well. Looks kind of like a left handed couter sink.. | ||
| Kilroy |
You will want to replace your base gasket also if you take the head off. It is only 30 minutes max extra work to replace the base gasket once you get that far. It will leak if you leave the old one in once you re-torque everything back down. | ||
| Jos51700 |
You can pull the head and leave the header in place, it takes a little manipulation, but it's possible. Be sure your jack is under the engine, not the muffler. I would not try an EZ-out. They like to break off, and double your pleasure. Er, Pain. I like taking stuff like this to machine shops. Seems like they can fix them better than I ever can. If you pull the head, do the base gaskets while you're there. | ||
| Mark61 |
When you take it to a machine shop they are going to use an easy out! Breaking them? YOUR techniques need improvement! Carefully drill in the center of the broken stud with a drill press. Drill the right size hole. Soak with penitrating oil. Still wont move? try a little heat around the threaded area. Worst comes to worst you end up drilling bigger holes in steps trying to find the minor diameter for the thread and then work the left over coil of thread out. Improve your chances-buy a reverse twist drill. Worth the money if the broken part comes out while drilling for the easy out! mark61 (Message edited by mark61 on November 29, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
consider using a rotary tool and slotting the bolt end try removing it with a screw driver  You will want to cover all other parts that allow ingress of the flyings with rags etc. slotting as shown should not affect the sealing surface IF you are careful cosmetic damage will be nill, that would avoid the removal of the head and the rotary tool is not expensive a little heat will help too. YMMV | ||
| Oldog |
Unless the S3 is drasticaly different from the X1 you will remove the muffler and header as part of the disassembley process. from other posts I gather that the removal is easier if the frame is lifted off of the motor. IHTH (Message edited by oldog on November 30, 2008) | ||
| Preybird1 |
best way to get it out is drill a small hole and weld on a rod, It will heat and expand the aluminum to make it easier, This is how we got the front header bolt out of my front head when it snapped off. Make sure the rod is a little square at the top so you can use a crescent wrench on it. You dont need to remove the exhaust or anything i can see you have enough room there to work with. I have a friend who is a machinist that works on race bikes and he has even gone as far as channeling around the bolt to remove it, And then sleeve it with a different bolt same size threads fatter bottom to fill the channels void. (Message edited by preybird1 on December 03, 2008) |
