| Author | Message | ||
     Malott442 |
So, I was wondering how long it is supposed to take to replace these little guys. I just got done with a S1W with isolators that had literally become metal/rubber seperated, which made the job easier, didnt have to undo 2 of the 3 heim joints, just the rear joint. Oh, and I don't wanna hear it X1 guys! I've owned 2, and isolators took less time than an oil change HAHAHA! I officially took 1 hour, 40 minutes from start to finish, using hand tools, a ratchet strap from the shed roof, and a floor jack. | ||
| 5liter |
I just used this method: http://danielcstarr.googlepages.com/replacetuberis olators I just replaced the drive belt. It took more time unbolting all the hardware than it did to remove and replace the isolator for the belt change! | ||
| Malott442 |
I thought about doing it that way, but I didn't want to stress the frame. Corners and wheelies do enough as it is, hehe~ | ||
| Phelan |
Well, I won't say nuthin' either, hehe. Dan replaced the right isolator on my S2 in about 10 min because of the sideplates... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Considering the low frequency of replacement, I found the difficulty of the job waaaaay over-rated here. I used the method posted in the link, but had no need for a pipe for leverage. Because of what I had read here, "frame spreading" and all that crap, I was worried too, but trust me, unless you are doing something seriously wrong, the effort and stress are minimal and no spreading of the frame takes place! | ||
| 5liter |
I substituted a 6 inch grade 8 stove bolt that I cut the head off of. 2 two inch black pipe nipples and the required nuts. Never had to use the extender and it didn't screw up the threads, so it's ready the next time I need it. |
