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Ratbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 10:21 pm: | 
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Gotcha. I got it installed tonight and it's pretty darn sturdy once it's bolted to the swingarm (hatehateHATE the bolt in front of the brakeline bolt, under the oil tank - what a PITA). The only thing I've noticed now that it's installed is, there's less than 1/4" clearance between the fender and the left side of the tire. I marked the inside of the fender with some white touchup so I can "read" it if there's any contact...anyone else noticed this? I'm guessing it'll be OK since it moves with the tire, I'm just concerned about CF flex. And yes, the tire is properly aligned in the swingarm 
FWIW, I found out the plug for the tag light is not listed anywhere as they consider it part of the fender, there are actually 2 plugs on the tag light in OEM form. One a couple inches from the light, another at the front of the fender; the length of wire glued to the fender with the 2 plugs is part of the fender. Frank sent me a fender with the light (which I converted to LED), and about 5" pigtails with no plug...so I straight-soldered a longer lead to them, and siliconed the wire to the inside of the fender. One less connection for me to mess up, lol. Anyway, the plug under the oil tank is the same as a Softail turn signal plug. Who knew?
(Message edited by ratbuell on December 02, 2008) |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 11:30 pm: |
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Hey ratbuell does you fender bolt on in the rear of the swing arm with a well nut? Mine does and it had popped out of my swingarm and forced the fender over enough it hit the belt and made a TERRIBLE NOISE!! if you have one. check it, that could be the issue.
Second thought loosen all the bolts but do not remove them and try to align it a bit better.
(Message edited by preybird1 on December 02, 2008) |
80rs427
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 08:22 am: |
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When I removed my CF fender, I didn't notice any place that looked close. I did note that even though the wire is tightly glued to the underside of the fender, the tire had been close enough to rub the insulation off the wire. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 10:14 am: |
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I alwaysalwaysalways start every bolt, then fiddle/flex whatever part it is into alignment, then tighten. Might be why I've never lost an exhaust nut or stud, lol.
My taglight wire runs on the belt side (same as stock from what I could see of the leftover glue-goop) and there's good clearance there; it's the brake side that's close to the tire.
All my wellnuts are good. I bought the bike in '04 with 1,154 (!) miles on it (currently about 5,300 miles), and it had a CF hugger on it when I got it. Pulling it off to install the OEM, that hugger *might* weigh four ounces. OMG is it light, no way it wore out a wellnut...and a quick check during the swap backed that up, they're all good. There's 2 nuts on the belt side, about 3" apart at the front of the swingarm. There's the screw under the oil tank that goes right into the swingarm. There's a fourth about five inches behind that, that holds a hose clamp on the rear brake hose and also goes right into the swingarm. All good, no crossthread, no worn rubber |
Lake_bueller
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 03:51 pm: |
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I really need to get some glamour shots of my S1W. Here are a few of my personal touches:
White painted heads with blue painted rocker. High temp paint used for both.
Custom cut rear pully with white powder coat. Note the lack of rear peg mounts. I would have removed the whole triangle but I originally had some wicked rearsets.
Powder coat on dash and race bars.
Other powder coated nic naks (front motor mount, frame brace)
Before the motor rebuild. I've also had the side stand powder coated with white. |
F_skinner
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 03, 2008 - 09:15 pm: |
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Lake, I would some to see more pics of your bike... Frank |
80rs427
| | Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 08:21 pm: |
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Russ, I just got home after a couple days away and your fender was waiting. It looks great and will really help out the S1. I'll get it installed on Saturday and get a couple pictures taken. Thanks again! John
Lake, that's one nice looking S1W. I like the looks of the bars, but I'm not sure my old back could take the riding position for long. Like Frank said...more pictures please! |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 08:56 pm: |
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Sweet i was worried, when i shipped it the label machine wasn't making labels for ups like it should have, and when checked i couldn't get any info on tracking and this was yesterday the 3rd, So that's good, arrived OK? that's good, Did i pack it good enough?
Nice get a pic for me id like to see it being used vs just sitting there getting dusty |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 09:09 pm: |
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John - I have the same bars on my S1W. I think it's above somewhere in the thread...but I'm 6'4", 34" inseam, with a 37" arm.
Yep. A lanky knuckle-dragger.
Anyway. Putting the clipons on the bike made it "fit" me much better. I felt a little cramped what with the one-cheek seat, higher pegs (compared to my S2 with T lower pegs, and my Uly), and overall tight quarters. I now have a comfortable reach to the bars - not a stretch - and while there's more weight on my wrists than either of my other bikes, it's not bad. It's also more comfy on my back, compared to the crouched/hunched position the stock bars with their mild pullback put me in.
Put it this way. I'm still in rehab for my rotator cuff that I tore up in a wreck mid-July, with nerve palsy and minor joint trauma to boot. First time I rode the S1W after the accident - I think it was late Oct. or early Nov. - I could feel it in my shoulder, but it wasn't "ohmygodwhatamIdoing" painful. Now granted, I'm just too dumb to quit....but if I can ride it injured.... |
Phelan
| | Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2008 - 10:57 pm: |
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LB, that motor looks hot! |
Lake_bueller
| | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 04:16 pm: |
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Thanks guys! For some reason, I don't any photos from the rebuild #2.
Quick story about the bike...bought the frame, wheels & body from a guy that took the motor for a chopper. I had a spare S3T from a "too good to pass up" deal. It had been slightly modified with a carbon fiber X1 fly screen and Crossroads bars. Out came that motor and it was installed into the S1W frame. Because it was already in pieces, I decided to dress up some of the parts with powder coating.
Fast forward about 3 years...
I found my way into a ditch at Deal's Gap. Busted up the bars, dash, guages & tank. Time for another rebuild. But I also had a base gasket leak. That lead to a complete rebuild of the top end because the motor was a little sloppy at over 50k miles.
Here's a few more glamour shots from before build #2.
This picture was in the BadWeb calendar from 200?
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80rs427
| | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 05:32 pm: |
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Lake, that is just a great looking bike. I've got to give you a big hand for saving it twice. |
Lake_bueller
| | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2008 - 06:30 pm: |
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Forgot to answer your question about the bars...I don't find them to be any worse than the stock bars. But I also don't ride too many miles on it any longer. At one point, it had the original Buell rear set pegs. They moved the rear pegs back 4" and up 2" from stock. Combine those with the bars and it was a real torture rack. We called it the "Pretzel Maker" because of the twisting you're body needed to make.
I only have a few pictures with that set-up.
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80rs427
| | Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 12:25 am: |
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I took my broken front fender off today, and I was a bit surprised to find that Russ' X1 fender is slightly different. It is shaped differently in the area adjacent to the fork tubes. It is about 3/8" wider in this area, and the fender behind the forks is also wider. It bolted up just fine, but there is very little clearance between the fender and the fork tubes. I haven't decided whether to remove 1/8-3/16 material from the fender on each side, or maybe use a heat gun to reshape it.
I searched for S1 vs. X1 front fender interchange, and everything indicated they were the same. I suspect the X1 showa fork tubes are slimmer in the fender area than the earlier S1 WP forks, allowing a wider fender. Has anybody run across this before? Any recommendations?
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F_skinner
| | Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 10:01 am: |
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John, the fenders should be the same. I would check your forks for damage. They may be slightly bent from the accident. Frank |
80rs427
| | Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 10:36 am: |
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Frank, that was the first thing that went through my mind when I put the fender on...the forks are bent. Then I started measuring things, and the X1 fender is wider than the S1 fender...it fits between the forks, but only has 1/32" clearance on each side, if that. I'm afraid as-is it will rub the insides of the fork tubes.
I even took two pieces of thin metal strap held together with a vice grip. I put the two pieces fork-to-fork on my '98 S1 and clamped them together. I then took the "gauge" to the S1W, and it was exactly the same width. |
F_skinner
| | Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 12:05 pm: |
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I am not sure that fender can be reshaped with any ease... You might want to try and find another S1 fender. I never would have guessed a X1 and S1 fender were different. Frank |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 01:13 am: |
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If it rubs it wont damage the aluminum. sheez its a piece o plastic, I noticed this same thing on my bike it was real tight but it caused no problems for me 1/32 lol give me a grinder of some sort ill slim it 10 seconds. i think the x1 is a better piece its white all the way through not a painted black piece. |
F_skinner
| | Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 07:46 pm: |
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If it rubs it wont damage the aluminum. sheez its a piece o plastic
Yes it will. There is clear coating on the forks and it will wear through and will over time rub into the the forks. Dont ask how I know. Frank |
Phelan
| | Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 08:31 pm: |
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I had a similar encounter putting an X1 fender on an S2 frontend fitted on my streetfighter XL1200S project. Nick (texastechx1) knows what I'm talkin' about. I bought the fender from him and drove down to Lubbock to pick it up, just like when I rode to Fountain to deliver the Works shock to Frank. Anyway it rubbed a bit so I sanded the indentions for the fork tubes. I also chopped 4" off the front and rear, drilled holes 3/4" above the stock mounting points, and used a band sander to clean it all up and reshape it. It looked really sick. |
80rs427
| | Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 10:07 pm: |
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I do think that since it's white plastic all the way through, I should be able to mark a radius around the fork tubes, giving 1/4" (or so) clearance. It'll take me a bit longer than Russ' 10 seconds (I'm slow), but I should be able to trim and smooth the fender to make it fit.
I'm just not used to massaging parts to make them fit, and I was a bit surprised when it wasn't an exactly the same. With some finesse, it ought to work just fine. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 09, 2008 - 02:26 am: |
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It is a far better part than you posted I was just being sarcastic, it will make a fine piece slow is good methodical and wise, I like the fact it has no paint!!
i was enjoying a late winter NOW I HAVE SNOW!! |
80rs427
| | Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 03:42 pm: |
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I've got a new Wileyco muffler that I recently bought here on the BW board (it was for a '99+ M2). I plan on pulling the D&D muffler off and trying the Wileyo to see if I can quiet the S1W down a bit.
I am assuming that a muffler for the '99-02 tube frame bikes (M2, X1, S3) will work with the '98 S1W because of the 2-1/2" inlet size? Has anybody found otherwise?
I should have done it yesterday....sunny and mid 40's, but I went shopping with my wife. Today it's 5*, cloudy, windy and COLD. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2008 - 09:14 pm: |
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Hey any progress pics yet?
Ok just checking on ya! |
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