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Xldevil
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Now that I spent more than 10h on the swingarm removal already,please help.
The problem is how to get to the upper left nut on the swingarm mount block on my Cyclone.
How do I have to make me a "whatever" to unscrew this nut?
I tried all the tools I know.I even tried to chamfer the block,hoped that I could probably use a socket,but I´m afraid to weaken the material too much.By grinding some aluminum I managed to make the 11/16 socket fit but than I haven´t been able to turn it.
There should be a lot of you who already did that job.How?
Which tool and where to get?
Ralph

(Message edited by Xldevil on October 31, 2008)
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Preybird1
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go to the knowledge vault and type it in the search bar! something will pop up
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Langperf
Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think used a 3/8" drive 11/16" crowfoot with a 20" wobble extension
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Xldevil
Posted on Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go to the knowledge vault and type it in the search bar! something will pop up
You can bet,I did that more than once.

I think used a 3/8" drive 11/16" crowfoot
I´m waiting for mine to come.
It´s seems the only way to get there.
Do you think I need a wobble ext. too?
Ralph
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 01:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crows foot brother, that's how I did mine as well. I don't recall the extension but I only had wobble bits back then, so maybe that's why it wasn't memorable...
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am surprised there is no reference to the tools required for the job in the vault!
Sorry man!
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Jos51700
Posted on Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't recall having any trouble in the dozens I've done, and I own no crowfoots (I do have a distributor wrench for the ol Mopars, though).

Could you supply a picture?
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Buellerthanyou
Posted on Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 05:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From American Thunderbike:
http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isolat or.php

"On the motor side, the head of the bolts was accessible by a socket wrench once we removed the positive lead from the battery to the starter. But the swingarm side 11/16 nut was not. I took a 11/16 box end wrench and cut off the other head. Then I heated it and bent the handle 90 degrees, so it runs perpendicular to the box end. Now we had a wrench that fit the nut with a handle to hold on to. With the bolts gone, it took a hefty pull to take out the rear swingarm assembly. You can feel how much reload is on the isolator by how hard it is to pull the assembly out. TJ’s bike is a 96 and it had a lot of preload set into the frame. That is a good thing."

Hope this helps.
HellBuelly J
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Xldevil
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you all for the informations.
I ordered a crow foot and think it will do the job.
Ralph
t.b.c.
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why are you pulling the mount block?
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 01:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very,very good QUESTION ???
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Xldevil
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very,very good QUESTION ???

Can´t agree.But especially for you two
:
To get the swingarm out the
http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isolat or.php
way

(Message edited by Xldevil on November 02, 2008)
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1devil:

"PLEASE" send me a PICTURE of the "PROBLEM" !!!
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There should be an easy solution to this puzzle.
Remember that they were built on an assembly line and it didn't take the pros 10 hours to do it.

There's always a trick.

I'm not busting you.
It took me 8 hours to do my isolators.
only because I couldn't solve the puzzle.
X1 frames are easier due to the trapdoor frame though.
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Isolators are 2-hour job. Throw in an R+R on swingarms, and it takes 3. I don't know why you assume that, because you read how someone on the 'net did it, that the factory methodology is inferior. I now know why I don't need the tools you say you need, to do the same job.

Since you have chosen the absolutely, most ridiculously, difficult way of doing this, I can't really offer much positive advice. Clearly, this method has saved you lots of time, and frustration.

(BTW, this is total sarcasm. That article/link is the most un-informed, ignorant, worthless piece of trash on the 'net that I have ever seen. And that's coming from a guy that's put some pretty ignorant trash on the 'net.)

If I ever find myself incapable of seeing the forest, because trees are in the way, I'll call you.
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"PLEASE" send me a PICTURE of the "PROBLEM" !!!

Done!
dipshits.JPG

(Big Friggin' Clue that things aren't right is circled in red. Source of problem is highlighted by arrows for clarity)

(Message edited by jos51700 on November 02, 2008)
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A lot of "BUELLschitte" time wasting FACTORY SERVICE METHODOLOGY runs up the LABOR BILL if you do it by the technician book ...

REMEMBER THIS: If it is not broke do not fix it, If you take more apart than necessary something else will get broken, "AND" There is more than one way to skin a cat !!!
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"WRONG" again technician !!!
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

""BUELLschitte" time wasting FACTORY SERVICE METHODOLOGY runs up the LABOR BILL if you do it by the technician book ... "

I can do it, step-by-servicemanual-step, 3 hours. Half-assed methods mentioned above?
10 hours and counting.

It cracks me up that some people think the they can do everything better than the factory.
"Yeah, WTF do they know? It's not like they built the f**king thing...."

What's "Buellschitte" (besides the fact that you're wearing out your Quotation Mark key), is that you criticize the factory people so harshly, but you don't have a bike with YOUR name on the side. If you know so much, BUILD YOUR OWN.
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Xldevil
Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Again,a crow foot spanner will do the trick,I´m pretty sure now.
On the assembly line the block was connected to the engine first,than the frame was attached.
The accessibility of the locknut on the assembly line was totally different than it is now,in the "real life".

(Message edited by Xldevil on November 03, 2008)
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Jos51700
Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"The accessibility of the locknut on the assembly line was totally different than it is now,in the "real life". "

This does not apply. The reason it's inaccessible is because there's absolutely no reason to remove it. If you're doing a a job that requires removal of the offending nut, you'll have the frame and swingarm and all that pesky junk out of the way already.
This is like trying to remove a piston ring, without removing a cylinder.

I think you'll find yourself done sooner if you drop this idea completely, put it back together, and start over using the service manual basics.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is why the PATCH says "technician" ...
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Xldevil
Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did it!!!!!!!!!
After I got my 11/16" crowfoot spanner,the job was fairly easy to do.
The bearings looked very dry,after 50k kilometers without service.
Now I´ll use the sealed version.
Thanks to all of you.
Ralph
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