| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
I picked up a standard motorcycle/ATV jack over the weekend but I am not sure if it is possible to use it for an X1, given the location of the exhaust and the shock. How do you folks "jack" up the bike in order to get the wheels off the ground? Thanks. | ||
| Buellistic |
Car body stands under the rider foot pegs and a small HYD. jack under the front of the engine ... | ||
| Oldog |
As lafayette indicates 2 auto jack stands at the rear pegs bottle jack or floor jack at front be careful the bike is tippy with the front off. to do an X1 iso the bottle jack goes at the rear on the right side you can use an 8' folding ladder and straps to help support the rear end for belt or Iso change. heres an example http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=536865#POST536865 | ||
| Ratbuell |
I use pit bull stands from Al at American Sport Bike. Rear lifts by the swingarm, front has a pin that inserts into the lower triple tree and lifts the front end. Spare pin also fits my XB tree. | ||
| Sloppy |
It's tough to beat these. http://www.cyclelifts.com/ If you need to change the front a simple jack under the shock mount is all it takes. You can have the entire bike off the ground with only one of these. They take up very little garage space and can be used on multiple bikes (I use it for my Honda, Buell, Yamaha and Suzuki!). | ||
| Tripp |
i use a swingarm lift and bottle jack combo, works well, i run straps from ceiling to handlebars for extra safety precaution. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks folks. Appreciate the input. I will give the motorcycle jack to a buddy of mine who has a riding lawn mower. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I always hoist mine from the top to the garage ceiling with come-along and tie down straps (to adjust angle) I don't think it's a good idea to jack up the bike from below since the consequences of it slipping off are pretty terrible. Hell, out of force of habit, I even hoisted my new ULY up instead of jacking it from below. | ||
| Cbm2 |
I do the same by putting one ratchet strap through each passenger peg and just lifting it up that way. Seems alot more stable than when I tried using an ATV/motorcycle jack. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
I like the idea of the dowel pins and pit bull for the swing arm but have a problem with them on the front of ANY motorcycle(the ones that use the bottom of the fork to lift) because of the instability of the front forks on those two pins . The steering head type is TOO damn big to keep in my shop area...never enough room! I have and use the pit bull style sport bike lifts but I've never been comfortable with the front lift...so I'm very cautious when I do a front tire. | ||
| Nulax20 |
It depends what you're doing, when I replaced my final drive belt I used an engine hoist with the bike suspended from the tail subframe with 1.5" ratchet straps and lesser ratchet straps from the rafters to keep it vertical.  | ||
| Kalali |
I actually used my garage door mounting rail (dual garage doors with rails ~ 2 feet apart) and strap method to lift the rear when I changed my belt two weeks ago. Worked out pretty good. I was little deceived by the set up on the motorcycle jack (two parallel mounting pads, 3"X15" size) thinking that I could just slide the bike over and put the pads on the sides of the axle. Well, not quite. I however think that those devices (like a U with a handle - not sure what they are called) which go underneath the rear axle (or front) bolts and jack up the rear should work better than the strap method. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
A u with a handle...yea thats it! Mohsen that is a design which most refer to as a "pit bull" style of lift. My quandry is to remove the front wheel for rotor change without TOO much renovation of my shop, which is also my store showroom, and cannot be cluttered with Rube Goldberg style solutions, and my ceiling is 18 feet up, textured and painted. I have a roll-up door but It's 16 feet up and the pendulousness (swinging) would be too much. Ultimately I would like to find a way to strap it down on the lift table and lift just enough to remove the front wheel...anybody? (Message edited by jstfrfun on October 31, 2008) | ||
| Brokeneck |
This is pretty redneck but I have the metal frame from a porch swing and put it over the back or front end and attach 2 ratchet tie downs -- works great -- I guess it's not truly redneck 'cause after I removed it from the front porch I didn't replace it with an old sofa -- Bneck | ||
| Ratbuell |
Jstfr - if you have a regular motorcycle lift with a front wheel clamp, just roll the bike on backwards, clamp the rear wheel, strap it to the eyebolts if you're picky, and use a scissor jack / flatjack on the front edge of the muffler (jack point on an XB; use a shock mount on a tuber) just enough to get the front wheel off the lift. | ||
| Jramsey |
Jstfrfn Just breech load the bike and lift to full height under a door track/ceiling joist and use 2 tie downs from the track/joist to the bars then let the lift down to the height you need to remove the front wheel. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
Never thought of that...but it does make sense. I'll give it a go and get rid of that rotor...if the bolts will come out. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
Did the deed yesterday. "Breech" loaded her into the wheel clamp and scissor jacked it up under the shock. Fun part was getting those bolts out of the brake rotor, got it done with some HEAT from a torch...and didn't even burn the bearing seal! The bike sounds much better without all that rattling going on! |
