| Author | Message | ||
     Preybird1 |
Has anyone had any problems with ngk plugs. I have had one of the electrodes break off all jagged like on one, Also this morning on the way to work the bike sputtered real bad and then the front cylinder was not firing Once i limped it home. The front cylinder was cold . With that said i will be checking on this after work to see if it is a fouled plug!! Man i hope its just a plug. What brands are you all using, And what are the plug numbers as i may have to use a different brand spark plug. This will be the second plug i have had to replace if its fouled, I will report back later on the problems source. | ||
| Sloppy |
That failure is typically found if the technician reset the gap multiple times (too much, too little, too much, too little, etc) and the electrode metal gets cold worked and eventually fractures. Check the resistance in your plug wires and make sure your plugs are not too old. Air cooled engines are extra hard on spark plugs. I assume you have the right plug heat range, but a fouled plug is indicative of inadequate ignition voltage so troubleshoot that system first. NGK is my plug of choice. I have found no other brand that has been able to keep its electrode shape over the same duration. Look on the mfg web site to find out which plug to use... | ||
| Preybird1 |
I am using a ngk #dcpr8eix the colder one for fuel injection use. Now i haven't pulled the plug yet as i am at work. But this is a new plug that replaced the broken one for about one month now, My friends bike did the same thing but it was his front coil! Man i dont have $117 for a new coil. cross your fingers and pray to the bike god for good luck! | ||
| Yo_barry |
Recommended Plugs HD 10R12A NGK DPR9EA-9 I just use the HD plugs, replace at every oil change (about 5K miles.) The only time I've had them foul was when the engine temp sensor was bad, causing the ECM to run really rich in order to keep temp down. 2001 Buell S3T 53,664 miles | ||
| Preybird1 |
Dam it its not the plug i smell gas, Got spark, Have air. But i don't have a compression tester at the moment. Any ideas! I tested the ecm just on chance and still same problem, I will ecm spy to check just in case and report back. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Ok its a no go its dead. I tested again for spark, fuel and all fuses and they were all good, I took out each one and double checked. I changed the front plug and double checked. It will only fire the rear cylinder, I checked with ecm spy and it showed no trouble codes. Huh imagine that....you would think the ecm would have picked up on the fact that only 1 cylinder is firing? Wait its was the rear firing only. Swapped to a different ecm still same problem. tested with other plug wires, Same no change, Is there any way to test the coil without ecm spy? To see if it is good. If not im going to pull the front injector out and check it, Because if i remember right last time i had a plug out and turned it over i got a mist of fuel out of the plug port, It was dark outside but i swear i got more fuel last time. Could it be a blocked injector? And if so isn't ecm spy going to pick it up. Im scratching my head here. thanks for the help! | ||
| Bad_karma |
Russ Check the service manual for the coil test procedure. Joe | ||
| Preybird1 |
Update here. Some good news some bad. First the good. Tested fuel spray in each cylinder with both plugs out, Front head no fuel spray! Plug was dry when removed prior to this test, Rear was spitting a nice mist out. Then we looked into the spark plug port in the front and saw lots of raw fuel, And fuel trickle from what looked like the intake tubes bottom. I am pretty sure it is a partially plugged injector letting raw fuel in instead of a nice fine mist. The bad news the fuel rail screw is seized like you wouldn't believe. and now its pretty cheesed up after multiple attempts with different methods to get it out, So i might have to take the intake out again god dammit, And die grind a notch in it to hopefully get it out so i can take the injectors out to get them either rebuilt or simply cleaned at an injector shop. I'm not sure which would be cheaper buying new ones or getting old ones refurbed. Now if this is not the problem i also have another fuel cell that works and if its a pressure problem ill use it to check that as i have no pressure tester | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I have an easy out set if it gets that ugly. There's an injector shop between 1300 and 1700 West on 78th too (south side of the road), if you want to talk to them about working on what you've got. I just noticed them there this week actually. I'm in Murray, right off of I-15 if you need anything you can stop by on your way home. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Thanks mike but i have good people in my corner like you, That will do trade work! Like my dentist i fix his for free he fixes mine for free  i will weigh the cost and see what is feasible! p.s. thanks for the offer 2 of my brothers are mechanics and my older brother is a master mechanic for cars but a little help never hurts. | ||
| Kalali |
Preybird1, Could you hear the injectors when you ran the diagnostics using ECMSPY? If you did, it looks like ECMSPY only checks for electrical current and has no way of "knowing" that fuel is actually coming out the way it should. I suppose that makes sense... BTW, I use Chevron Techron FI cleaner every other tank full and I have never had any injector related problems with either my bikes or cars. I've been using it for over 20 years now... | ||
| Preybird1 |
Well i just ran some 44k through the system about a month ago, And i am the 4th owner and no maintenance was done, And one of the owners. Was a fighter pilot that was away a lot so the gas probably varnished. And yes they were clicking but i could physically see the raw fuel dripping and not spraying. And im waiting on a cost for refurbed injectors the new ones are $63.00 each. |
