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Petethekiller
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 02:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys,

I'm kinda new to the HD/Buell thing and have a few questions about going through the motor on my recently purchased 2000 M2.

I think I have a bad bearing somewhere in the engine or tranny as it has a nasty vibe from the motor starting at 4000 rpm and and is getting hard shift as well a noticable loss of power.

Not sure where my issues lye just yet but with almost 30,000 miles on the motor, I rebuild my not be a bad idea.

I'm a pretty handy hot rodder so please feel free to question my skills.

I've called around to get pricing on a rebuild and was amazed at how they started at around $3000 with out any High performance parts....I plan on doing the work myself.

My goal: Purchase a 1430 big bore kit, a complete set of bearings for the motor any tranny, Rebuild and port heads and purchase an aftermarket cam.

My question(s): Do I need to pay a guy $1500-2000 in labor or can I do this myself (aside from the machine work)...and If can do this myself what special tools do I need.

Any favorite vendors?

I would like to hear your hot rodded combos and how they perform.

Lastly, any tips or advise is welcomed

Thanks much

Pete
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Smoke
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 06:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

CYCLERAMA
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Ducxl
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty ominous project there Pete.

I've built a few motorcycle engines.My first was an early EVO Sportster i machined the cases myself.You'd benefit from having the crank assembled to the cases and have the cases bolted together.

Pay to have headwork done by a reputable shop.I used Branch Engineering,but there are better(sponsors here).

The transmission can be fun.Fun as in FUN,if you like mechanics.Lucky you have a "trapdoor" transmission.It can seem confusing at first.I sat with it for a good month just disassembling/re-assembling.

I'd say you'd need feeler gages,torque wrenches,complete mechanics tool set,and you should have enough tools.

I finished a Ducati this year.I mention that because from start to finish took 11 months.....and over $5000 in engine work alone.It requires patience and time.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On an M2, I'd figure out if it is tranny or motor and just fix it with stock (or nearly stock) parts. It's a fun bike at stock HP, and you might be able to do it for less then $500 in parts.

I replaced 2nd gear in my M2 tranny in an evening. Started at about 4 pm, and the transmission was back in by about 2 am.
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Ducxl
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 09:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Reep'.

THese engines are nearly at their limits of mechanical reliability.Performance mods really tend to erode reliability.Unless you consider very expensive exotic crank/flywheel/conrod components.

The transmission CAN be worked in the hours stated above.In my case,i got a very thourough education in transmission dynamics.

In the case of the Ducati engine,well,that's an over-engineered design that responds well to performance increases.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be sure to up-date your oil pump to PN 26357-02B !!!
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pete,

some things to check on your service,

oil pump drive gear,
lifters and cam bearings
compression
intake seals
exhaust mounting, replace the studs
dis assemble the clutch ( special tool required to press the spring ) remove the spring plate replace with 2 steel 1 fiber [I THINK] Examine the 5th gear bearings if any grindy noises eminate from the output shaft area.
consider replacing the primary seal if it has not been changed
If the noise appears to emminate from the side opposite the push rods try adjusting the primary chain.

the shifting issues are at times due to that or a broken circlip on the selector nmechanisim that allows the pins to wiggle out of position

Your next acqusition should be a factory shop manual.

good luck and welcome to the madness.
While I have never had any work done there
I second the CycleRama recomendation for work, I have spent some time on the phone with them discussing EFI issues and solutions
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Chasespeed
Posted on Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 05:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IF you are really considering tearing into it, and doing a rebuild....

Start at the heads, and go down, checking all your tolerances...

CHECK THE SIDEPLAY on the con-rods

etc...

THEN, determine what you want out of your rebuild....

As far as reliability... eh.. I did my 1250 2 years ago... and no problem since... and I am not gentle to it... other than letting it warm up a little(2-3 minutes)...

As far as vendors, though not a Sponsor, I have had outstanding service with NRHS.

I will also say, that CycleRama has outstanding C/S as well...

I would have one of them do your headwork, and machine the cases...

You can do re-assembly yourself..

I stuck with the 1250 under the advise of 2 different builder, due to how I ride my bike...

You might want to discuss your intended use(rpm, abuse, etc), and let them make a recommendation.

Chase
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Yo_barry
Posted on Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At 30k miles, I doubt that you will need to split the cases.

First thing I'd do would be pull the left side engine cover. The belt tension shoe is weak on pre 2001 Buell and Sportsters and may have given up. At any rate, replace the shoe (~$17.00) and the gaskets. Then adjust the primary chain.

If you decide to do the top end (and I don't think you need to with only 30k.) It will cost you about $500 in parts and machining -- using stock service pistons/rings +0.010 and bore cylinders +0.010. You probably only need to clean up the heads and reseat the valves.

I rebuilt my Sportster at 83K miles, no serious wear evident, cylinders were just at the edge of the roundness spec. Other than cleanup, no head work was necessary.

Of course if you want to hot-rod the engine, ignore this useless post and get out your no limit AmEx card.

Barry
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