| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
Hanna is visiting us today so I figured I look over the bike..While looking at the belt I noticed three of the teeth missing within a 12" span of the belt. Fortunately they are not all in a row and are apart by a few teeth. Looking closely, I see a few of the other teeth showing signs of cracks but the exterior of the belt looks decent and I see no signs of cracks. The bike has 12K miles and I keep the belt real loose. Is this something that needs immediate attention, e.g., bike dangerous/unreliable to ride? | ||
| Akbuell |
I say "Replace the Belt, NOW." The missing teeth say it is in a fail mode; only a matter of time before it goes completely. And it is dangerous, as it could fail at a time/place when you need power. | ||
| Kalali |
Quick update. I looked through the entire length and I have 6 missing teeth all within an 18" span. Two are next to each other. Amazingly though the belt looks almost new around the exterior surface with no signs of cracks or fatigue around the entire length. I did read the section in the shop manual and there are at least two areas where I will have trouble; lifting the rear and keeping there securely, and a torque wrench to handle 110 lb-ft (mine goes up to 85). Realistically though, how hard is it to replace the belt with mechanical skills of about 3 on a scale of 10. Thanks. | ||
| 5liter |
My belt looked fine when I checked it at rear tire replacement. It went with no warning although it did have a lot of miles on it. | ||
| Phelan |
If lifting the rear is a problem, consider this: When I changed my belt on my S2 last week, I didn't have a lift either. I did however have pretty good brawn between myself and my dad, so I took the tail section off my bike (which you shouldn't have to do since yours is aluminum), loosened the axle and adjusters a bit, lifted the rear just enough to kick the wheel forward to slip the belt on. I did this part myself, but I had my dad lift the bike at the rear once I got the bushing off from behind the sideplate and I slid the belt through before he let it down. To clarify, I slipped the belt between the frame before I kicked the wheel forward. oh, and I tightened the axle adjusters to pull the wheel back. (Message edited by phelan on September 06, 2008) | ||
| Akbuell |
Can't help w/the torque wrench, but the rest is easy. Just follow the steps in the manual. And there was a previous post where a member made a tool to hold the primary sprocket to torque it. I have used frame stands under the foot pegs to lift the rear wheel off the ground. Or the ever popular ratchet straps and a frame over the bike. And give Hanna a hug for us. You owe her.  | ||
| Jramsey |
The X1 is the only tuber that has a removable right side plate. Belt changes are simple and no spreading of the frame is required. Mechanical difficulty on a scale of 10 I'd rate it a 1.5 Removing the chin spoiler, swing arm brace and sprocket cover takes about as much time as anything. | ||
| Akbuell |
To kalali and all:Please ignore most of my previous post. I was having a very senior moment. My bad. kalakli: A PM will follow. Thanks to all, Dave  | ||
| Akbuell |
To kalali and all:Please ignore most of my previous post. I was having a very senior moment. My bad. kalali: A PM will follow. Thanks to all, Dave | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks folks. Appreciate all the replies. I did remember reading somewhere that one of the more creative members had used an A ladder and a strap to hoist the rear of the bike between the two legs of the ladder..Seems doable...All I need is just a couple of inches off the ground.. I am however a bit surprised by the price of the belt...$170 seems a bit stiff... Hanna is all gone and it is a perfect riding day..except now I am all worried about the stupid belt... Oh well... Thanks again guys and enjoy the rest of your Sunday... | ||
| Jstfrfun |
Kalali, this is too simple! If you look at the right side of your frame above the footpeg you will see that there are allen bolts holding the removable frame section on allowing you to remove the belt without lifting anything(you must also remove the peg and the frame isolator bolt). And if you think a belt is expensive consider the cost of your tyres and how many miles you get out of them. Be glad you own the X1, to my knowledge it is the only Buell that has this belt change type of frame. BTW don't forget to be aware of the isolator position when you remove the frame section, there is a small pin which MUST go back in correctly or you will hate life! Go ahead ask me how I know that! | ||
| Oldog |
to my knowledge it is the only Buell that has this belt change type of frame No S2 does as well peg does not have to be removed please check the KV I though I posted a belt change thread its a job but it can be done on the side stand. did i say its a job? a bottle jack, jack stands, ladder & strap make it easy. stand supports on opposite side passenger peg, bottle jack under engine mount ladder and strap on rear seat rail remove support link, and outer hugger bolts if present }remove bolts and move out side plate watch rear brake hard line mark isolator remove bolt install belt use loctite on the iso bolt reverse disassembley, pay attention to the iso's as they can twist. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks again. I also looked at the KV and I now have a good idea as how to change the belt. My biggest concern was (and still is) if the missing teeth meant imminent failure or not even though the belt surface and the edges look fine. I guess I should not wait and find out the hard way... | ||
| Oldog |
if the missing teeth meant imminent failure YES! Change the belt} | ||
| Buellistic |
One of the reasons the belt teeth disappearance is it has been or still is being adjusted too tight(2 inches on the belt tight spot and forget what it says in the Factory Service Manual) ... When you replace the belt be sure to compress the left isolator as much as possible so you will not sprng/bend the frame ... | ||
| Kalali |
Actually the belt is quite loose so adjustment should not be an issue. I am now wondering what would cause the teeth to come off specially since the belt looks pretty decent all around and the bike only has 12K miles. Does this suggest serious abuse (by the previous owner), e.g., hard launches, etc.?? Now should I start worrying about the clutch, tranny.... | ||
| Kalali |
You guys will get a good laugh from this... Called the dealer for an estimate to replace the belt....4hours@$70=$280 plus part(s, just under $500 total cost. He said the swing arm has to come off and takes a lot of time.. Man, I wished I had the XXXXs to use Oldog's write up and change the belt in their parking lot and show them how it could be done... | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Kalali - the local dealer here did the same thing to me, but I didn't know any better so I paid it. After seeing in the manual (that I should have been using to do the work myself) about the removable section in the frame, I went back and got 3.5 hours labor refunded. Since then I've done my own servicing. | ||
| Kalali |
To be honest, I am thinking about riding to the dealer this Saturday and just ask them why 4 hours while I have the bike with me. The service guy is really nice man and has been quite reasonable (and honest) with me in the past. Having said that, I am not sure I will be able to get a refund once the money is exchanged! I will be very tempted to have them do the work if they agree to charge around one hour or so mainly because I need to buy a few tools (which I will probably never use again) to do the work. | ||
| Jstfrfun |
Failure is not iminent! The belt HAS failed. It's over,toast finito. | ||
| Kalali |
Well, come on now..."technically" it hasn't failed since I can still ride the thing...I just wished I could drag it on for another 1000 miles or so...and do it with all the other stuff over the winter break... | ||
| Jstfrfun |
Ok go for a ride and then tell us how it was to push it back home or load it up on a flatbed for the money, I could be wrong but when my belt lost teeth I didn't chance it,and my X1 is not to bad to push. Go ahead ask me how I know that! | ||
| 5liter |
Kalali: If you have AAA with the RV rider, they will come pick you up and haul you to your house or the dealer. Ride that puppy "til she breaks! If you don't have AAA then ride it 'til she breaks and then call a friend to come get you. I'm not trying to be a smart ass here. I had a lot of miles on my belt and it looked fine when I checked it last. It had no missing teeth, no cracks and it failed without warning. It's your call. | ||
| Kalali |
5liter, thanks man...You just reminded me that I totally forgot to include my bike in my Allstate Motor Club membership. Just called them and for an additional $33.50 they put the bike in the plan... Probably the best $33.50 I had spent in a long time...I will however order the belt today.. | ||
| Oldog |
I need to buy a few tools (which I will probably never use again) to do the work. Tools are never a waste of money unless they are one time use, no special tools are needed that cost any significant money, for 2hours you can get all of what you need If you have a garage to work in DIY and save the money } | ||
| Buellistic |
What would be called SPECIAL TOOLS to compress the left isolator and spread the frame just enough to get the right isolator out can be bought at the local "MOM & POP" Hardware store ... Everything else the local Auto Parts Stores(ie: basic hand Tools) ... It is quicker to BYPASS the Factory Service Manual way which is very time consuming ... THIS Factory Service Manual "BUELLschitte" IS ONE OF THE REASONS IT COSTS SO MUCH TO HAVE YOUR BUELL REPAIRED AT A HARLEY-DAVIDSON DEALER !!! You must replace the isolators with the latest isolators if you do not already have them ... (Message edited by buellistic on September 11, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
Kalali The hand tools needed to remove the right isolator are minimal, torks driver, end wrenches, Torks bit for the monster, allen wrenches, breaker bar/or big wratchet Me I would contact AL at American Sport Bike and buy a set of the iso's with socket head bolt and toss the @#$%$%@^$ torks there, the belt change is dead easy If you had to buy ALL of the hand tools + belt + iso & bolts 400.00$ max and you own the tools | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks again folks for all the insight and guidance. I took a ride down to my local HD dealer (3 miles away from my house) and talked the service guy. After I showed him the side plate, he admitted that his estimate was based on "other" Buells and changed it from 4 hours to 2 hours and interestingly enough said that I could probably do it myself in less time if I had the shop manual! Anyway, I ordered the belt (the newer XB type) and they were nice enough to give me 15% off ($160 including tax) even though their "Open House" (show off the 2009 bikes,lunch, demo rides, 15% discount on parts, etc.) is only on Saturday. Looks like I will be doing the work next weekend. Thanks again for all the help. | ||
| 5liter |
T-60 Torx bit for the isolator bolt. Mine came with a 1/2 in drive. It's not too hard to get loose. I put a foot long pipe on the end of the ratchet and it came loose. The only problem I have is the "Kastar" isolator removal tool is kind of fragile. I got the isolator out OK. The tool gave up the ghost when I went to reinstall the isolator. I sent it back as they have a 1 year warranty on it. | ||
| Kalali |
Sorry, don't mean to drag this on but I thought I did not NEED to completely remove the isolator in order to "slip" the belt through - remove the iso bolt, loosen the side plate and pull it gently just enough to slip the belt in/out. I suppose I could replace the iso while I am there but it is not required... |
