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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through September 29, 2008 » Clutch is a little grabby « Previous Next »

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00cyclone
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 11:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey recently my clutch has been a little grabby. If i pull up to a light and put it in neutral the tranny sounds like its trying to catch. Also it engages really easily and i actually stalled at a light which was kind of embarrassing haha. Any ideas?
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00cyclone
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another thing is when the bike is off and say its in first gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in the bike wont roll smoothly. Like you can feel the compression of the engine. It will move better than with the clutch lever out but i was under the impression that with the clutch lever in it should be able to roll smoothly and not actually be connected to the flywheel or whatever these have. Are your bikes like this or do i need some adjustments?
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 04:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you adjusted the clutch preload (behind the clutch inspection cover) yet?
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00cyclone
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No i havent gone that far yet. Do you think thats what it would take to solve this problem? Because i am assuming that your bikes roll freely when the clutch is pulled even when in gear?
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to do a proper adjustment as outlined in the service manual. If you don't have a service manual, you can download one for an S1 from the Knowledge Vault; the clutch adjustment procedure is the same.

All bikes with wet clutches will drag the plates (to a degree) when the clutch disengaged. Even with the clutch properly adjusted, you'll probably have to rock the bike back and forth to break the plates free from the spacers if you want to move the bike in gear with the engine off.

This is the case with all clutches bathed in oil and every motorcycle I've had in the last 32 years has done it.

Do the clutch adjustment.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 06:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

00cyclone:

Have one question ???

Have you removed the GRENADE PLATE(ie: SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90)and replaced it with 2 ea. STEEL PLATE PN 37913-90 and 1ea. FRICTION PATE PN 37911-90 ???
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00cyclone
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic: Havent messed with any of the internals. Is that a recall from the factory or something to change those?

Djkaplan: Will doing the clutch adjustment help with how far out the clutch catches from the left grip? I like for the clutch to catch after barely releasing the handle as opposed to catching when its almost all the way out.

Thanks for the feedback guys
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2008 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

00cyclone:

This PLATE was not a RE-CALL item ...

Here is a little history on this GRENADE PLATE:

It would go bad(as in come apart) and take some of the clutch plates PLUS with as it self destructed in the clutch basket ...

Mine lasted 50K and when it starts to self destruct your clutch will not stay in adjustment ...

If you clutch is adjusted correctly, it will stay in adjustment until clutch cable breaks(to stop this drill a small oil hole in the clutch over the cable end so you can lube it), you need to put in the latest primary gasket if yours did not come with it, or you put in a "EASY PULL"(www.easypullclutch.com) for an easier pulling clutch ...

Sportsters did not have this PLATE from 2001 on ...

"BUT" "i" do not know about 2001/2002 BUELLs ???

"i" would think they would not ???

The BLAST and XB clutches never had it ...

If you want better control of when your clutch takes effect put on a KAWASAKI complete clutch lever PN 13236-1185 and adjust the clutch on position 1 then you can find what feels best for you between positions 1 to 5(the two out side pins are the clutch switch) and the front brake is PN 46076-1165. What is nice about this clutch lever is finger length/take effect adjustments ... The levers are BLACK ...
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Djkaplan
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 02:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I like for the clutch to catch after barely releasing the handle as opposed to catching when its almost all the way out."

Your preference for where the clutch engages in the lever's range of travel may well be exacerbating the problem of the plates dragging on the spacers when you try to move the bike. The clutch works best when the lever has enough travel to disengage the plates.

Adjust the clutch according to the prescribed procedure in the service manual and fine tune the engagement point with the cable adjustment... but the closer that point is the grip, the worse your problem will be.
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