| Author | Message | ||
     Cbm2 |
Last summer I had the detent plate and the c-clip replaced because the shifting locked up and it cost me $350, and now it just happened to me again. What my question is, should I take it in and spend another $350 or just get a manual and try it myself. The parts only cost me about $40 but the labor seemed ridiculous. Is this a job that can be handled with just a shop manual so I can save some money? Thanks | ||
| Oldog |
CBM get the fsm and the needed tools and DIY | ||
| Djkaplan |
Do it yourself, the transmissions on these bikes are easy to work on. You should at least take the primary off and inspect it yourself before you pay anyone. | ||
| Sloppy |
Say it with me, "Baker, Baker, Baker"... end your C-Clip woes... If you can replace brake pads you can do the tranny. Will cost you about $200 in tools if you don't have them already. Will take about 4 hours, depending upon how anal you are. | ||
| Cbm2 |
$200 in tools to do it? What special tools are needed that I probably wouldn't already have. I'm really starting to think that the Baker kit would be a good investment for me. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I had to fabricate a chunk of aluminum (if you count "mash it with a vise and cut it with a hacksaw" as "fabrication"), and I had to get a couple "big freaking sockets", and I had to get a really big set of snap ring pliars. I don't think I needed anything else unusual until I went to pull that 5th gear drive assembly (that stays in the case when the transmission comes out). You can get a green tinkertoy if you want to do the crank seal while you are in there  . | ||
| Sloppy |
Tools required: Torque Wrench that goes to 200 lb-ft (maybe 250?, I don't quite recall) and is accurate in both CW and CCW rotation (many are not!) Standard 3/8" torque wrench. 2-Arm (or 3 arm) puller to remove the magnetized housing from the stator. You don't "need" it, but it's a should have. Misc. sockets for crank and tranny nut Hard to freak'n find drill bit (see manual) Crank to Tranny lock (a rag isn't the right way to do this...) Shop Manual Snap ring pliers And if you disassemble the tranny you need LOCK ring pliers (not the same as snap / retaining ring pliers). Misc. selection of loc-tite Breaker bar with a cheater(!) or an impact wrench, but I've heard "stories" that impact wrenches can damage the crank seal. Hmm, maybe that shop price doesn't sound too bad, eh? Part of the labor cost for a shop go to "rental" of the appropriate tools, having a lift and a clean place to work on the bike. There's also that "insurance" that if anything tragically goes wrong that the shop has liability in order to pay for said damages... Have fun -- and I can highly recommend that Baker kit. | ||
| Djkaplan |
You can do the job without a torque wrench, but you have to be around 175lbs. You can support the end of an 18" breaker bar (easy with an adjustable jackstand) and step on the end to get you within the recommended torque spec (it got revised to a higher spec from the tuber service manual). I think the only tool I needed that I didn't have or couldn't make myself (the lockbar - I must have made and distributed 50 of them to other BadWebbers) was the lock-ring pliers (for trans work). I have the Baker shift drum, but it seems to me it would be a lot less expensive to drill and tap the stock shift drum if all you really want to do is get rid of the wonky circlip thingie. A few people have done that and documented it here on the BadWeb. | ||
| Sloppy |
DJ Did the tubers get a higher torque setting or just the XB's. I have not seen any updated torque settings for the tubers. Let me know - thanks. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Yes! It's been revised to keep the crank nut from loosening. Double check the specs, but I'm certain it was increased from the 170ft*lbs in the 99-00 M2 manual I have to the new spec of 220-250ft*lbs. Double check that though... my superpowers of recall (and other things) have been diminishing lately. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I can't find a recall bulletin on it (I saw your question about it in the KV while I was perusing). I'm certain I saw somewhere that the spec was revised for tubers, though. Still checking.... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Definately use the new spec. I used the old one (by the book) when I pulled my tranny on the M2, and the crank nut came loose. Ft lbs are just that. You can take your weight, and calculate how far out you have to stand on a two foot breaker bar to get X foot pounds. Nothing wrong with paying a shop, and doable at home as well (unlike splitting cases, that scares me). | ||
| Sloppy |
From all the Buell bulletins I've seen it's ONLY the XB's that have been increased. What's confusing was that when the information was passed on it was specifically for XB's but someone here used the picture of an XL engine as a demonstration. It would be great if we can get this mystery cleared up -- perhaps Court or Blake could chime in? I've opened my crank nut up ~ 4 times and have never had a problem with a loose crank nut (just the opposite, in fact) -- but I do clean both threads with cleaner before applying Loctite Red (272?). I'm leary of the "stand on a breaker bar technique". At what distance is your mass force applied to the bar? At what angle is your center of mass - the bar should be exactly parallel to the ground (assuming flat ground). Proper torque technique (that I was taught) is supposed to be applied while the nut is moving or else you will be applying "breakaway" torque if you are at static load -- dynamic friction is lower than static friction. I'll go with the piece of mind of a calibrated torque wrench... but to each their own. (Message edited by sloppy on July 29, 2008) | ||
| Jramsey |
The primary lock bar is easily made from a piece of Aluminum 1/4" x 2" flat stock 4-3/8" long and chamfer the ends with a disc sander or a file to fit the tooth profile. (Message edited by J.ramsey on July 29, 2008) | ||
| Robr |
It would be nice to know for sure. I torqued and locktited mine at around 10k because of the telltale knocking and now, at 17k it's begun knocking again.  | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've torqued my crank nut to the higher specs (with red Loctite) and haven't had any problems. | ||
| Cbm2 |
Right now every place has a good 2-4 week wait on service so it looks like it could be a while. I'm thinking right now that getting the Baker kit put in by someone is my best bet so I am not dropping another $400 next summer when my bike decides to take another crap in the middle of summer. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Too bad you don't live near me. I'd come by and point and hollar you through it for some beer... and cheese, maybe. I'd even bring my own lockbar. You could easily have it installed in one morning and be test riding the bike by lunch. |
