| Author | Message | ||
     Silas_clone |
Did trans oil, lube cable and clutch adjustment yesterday. As I went to squeeze the clutch lever "3 times" [as per manual] to "seat the ramp balls", something "popped" in the clutch basket or the throwout ramp. What resulted was that the clutch cable adjuster is now screwed down so that there are just a few threads showing. Everything seems to be working, [I went for a 25 mile ride] but I am curious as to what may have happened and why my clutch cable suddenly got "shorter"? | ||
| Buellistic |
Could be the "GRENADE PLATE"(ie: spring plate) as they are only good for about 50K miles or less ... It should be replaced with two steel and one fiber plates ... Sportster clutches have not had this spring plate in them since 2001 and the BLAST/XB clutches never had it ... | ||
| Silas_clone |
Would the clutch work well if the spring plate let go? | ||
| Buellistic |
What happened when my spring plate went bad was "i" could not keep the clutch adjusted because of spring plate parts in the clutch ... The clutch adjustment in the Factory Service Manual for your year and model is almost right on, "BUT" it does not include experience ... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I would pop open the inspection cover and inspect the little ramp deal in there. You might have a time bomb of a loose ballbearing! Besides, it's easy to pop out the release gizmo and look it over. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Did the eyeball overhaul. I hate doing this, but I will order a clutch spring tool and take everything apart. I have proper adjustment, just don't have much more than a 1/4" of adjustment beyond the 1/8" slack I have. Seems like I had a bit more before the "pop" | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You don't need to remove the primary cover to get to the clutch release ramp. Just the four screws on the derby cover, then back off the little flat headed adjustment screw in the center. The rampy thing should come right out in your hand I think. It's just like changing the cable only with one more step added, you know? Also, you can improvise a decent clutch spring tool. The "real" tool costs $$$. I posted here somewhere how to make a simple tool that is easy to use. I can dig that up if you want. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Nate, I took out the ramp mechanism, it looked ok, so did the bearing behind it. The bike rides fine and shifts ok. I would like to take everything apart just for peace of mind. I rode today wearing a 1/2 helmet. It has more clatter than a washing machine full of marbles, just like my ironhead I'd like to see that device! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That's weird. I posted the link and it didn't take. here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/148524.html | ||
| Silas_clone |
looks easy if the spring plate collapsed, would I have more cable slack or less? It appears as though I do not have to pull the primary chain/drive sprocket to work on the clutch...? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That's right. All you have to do is apply enough force to take the tension off of the big clip. I used a dental pick to pop out the clip and then the spring comes off along with your tool All of the plates can then be removed. If the "grenade plate" has failed, the little rivets jam in the adjacent plates, taking up the slack in the clutch and making it drag. | ||
| Silas_clone |
Thanks Nate! I doubt if my clutch has "grenaded", but ya nevah know | ||
| Silas_clone |
Went with a Barnett "extra plate" clutch from American Sport Bike. Came at 4:30 pm via UPS Had to go to HD cause they sold me the wrong snap ring [itsa friggin' sportster for goshsakes!!!] had a steak dinner Went for a ride at 9:45 Al said 3 hour installation tops but my wrenching hours are like dog years. Anyway, the bike shifts a lot better. My grenade plate seemed to be flat, not much space between. The rest of the clutch looked good as far as I could tell. Thanks to everyone for the dialog! | ||
| Silas_clone |
OK, now what? I rode early this morning [50 miles] with a smile on my face, until I pulled into the driveway, where I couldn't find neutral. Even using the "second to neutral" trick while rev-ving. It didn't want to downshift unless it was rolling. This was after one of the sweetest rides since I bought the thing! I had installed the Barnett Extra Plate Kevlar clutch last night. I soaked the plates in SPORT TRANS as per Barnett instructions. One thing I noticed was that there was a greasy, greenish black "soot" on the inside of the primary cover. I attributed that to the old clutch as it was in the clutch basket too. I decided to redo the clutch adjustment, realized that I overfilled the trans as soon as I pulled the derby. I forgot, 28 oz's instead of 32. I got that straightened out, went for a ride, came back and adjusted my linkage by lenthening the link 1/16" because it seemed like it didn't wanna downshift. Went again, much longer ride, working good again. I got all of my adjustment on the cable back, but why is this thing so finicky? I was in love again this morning and then cursing like a sailor this afternoon until I adjusted the linkage. Is Sport Trans not compatible with Kevlar? Bent forks? WTF? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I really like synth fluids in primary, I haven't run anything in my primary as bad as Sport Trans, just my $.02 the synth's seem to help smooth things out a lot. I know I can go look for myself, but how much did that new clutch cost? -Mike | ||
| Silas_clone |
I would appreciate the brand of SYN you use, I use Mobil 1 in engine but the posts about using it in the trans worry me. I had planned to trans change oil at 500 miles. How do you get that last 4 oz's out? The clutch was $141. It is [or seems] to be a good one. | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Buy the sport-trans at a dealer and take your lumps. Its worth it IMO. Have tried others and not happy. Last 4? I used a shop-vac at the edge of drain hole to create a suction of sorts. Got some strange looks from my buds but it worked. Best of luck brother. (Message edited by wile_ecoyote on July 21, 2008) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I've been using the Syn 3 lately, made by HD and the label says it can be used in the primary. I liked the Mobile 1 gear oil the best of the few brands I tried but have also read it's bad for the stator so stopped using that stuff, sure did smooth out the tranny though... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Mobil 1 gear oil = may or may not cause stator problems and is not recommended by the manufacturer for use with wet clutches. Mobil 1 v-twin 20w/50 synth engine oil = no problems! | ||
| Silas_clone |
I am gonna try synthetic in the trans, I already use it in the engine. The sport trans, I dunno why but never thought it to be dino. The vacuum trick sounds good. | ||
| Xldevil |
I tried the Formula+ Trans-Oil with my Energy One plates. The clutch made a squeezing sound while accelerating in first.Sounded like it would slip. Went back to mineral 20W50 engine oil,the sound is gone and the clutch works fine. Btw.The Energy One side says not to use synthetics with their plates. My Sporty has now problem with synthetics,I´m riding the HD plates in there. | ||
| Silas_clone |
just went and coughed up $35 for 3 qts of syn 3 A-hem |
