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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 22, 2008 » FUEL TANK « Previous Next »

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Shags
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still working on backfiring,thanks for all the suggestions.I noticed on my 01 m2 that the front of the gas tank has a piece sticking out of it with a bevel in it.I think that goes under the black cross piece of the frame,but in my case the tank hits that black cross piece (rides high).How can i remedy this ,thought about grinding down the top hold down piece so i can slide tank back.The tank seems much more secure that way.
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Aesquire
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 12:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

? Mine has a hook molded into the front of the tank, that must be rotated under the cross piece. If I understand what you are saying.

The tank must be rotated in pitch about 45 degrees to hook the front on. ( back of tank up ) Other wise the tank would sit awkward high.

The back is secured by a honking big bolt through 2 spike covered plates, the back molded tab of the tank & into a welded nut in the frame. ( that keeps the tank from going fore & aft & wearing out, too )
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Werewulf
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 05:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

dont grind or drill on the nose hook, its hollow and you will have a leek....for what its worth...
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Shags
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry not a very good explanation sleep deprived.The nose hook on tank goes under black frame cross bar.The problem is that you have to push tank all the way up against the cross bar(rub point) past the beveled part of the tank (nose),in order to get upper and lower spiked mounting plates and bolt on.I was thinking i could grind some of the upper plate off a little to be able to slide tank back in to correct position. I think that is the correct position,the tank is much more stable there.
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Werewulf
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you might have to lay on your back with a flashlight and see its conflicting with any parts.. place the front nose hook under the cross bar and pull slightly back on the tank as you lower it.. you probably have two rubber bumpers on the frame that the tank rests on, that match indentations on the bottom or your tank... if it isnt sitting in the indentations, it wont go all the way down...like i said, dont be cutting on the nose piece...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, June 13, 2008 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IIRC, the rear end of the tank isn't a bolt hole, but a slot? You should be able to push/pull it where you need it to be fore/aft, and then bolt it down. The toothed pieces come off the plastic tank, don't be afraid to reposition them if it means getting your tank in the right place on the frame.
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