| Author | Message | ||
     Torquemonster |
The upper exhaust stud (front head) broke off flush with the head last night. Would you attempt extraction WITHOUT a JIMS tool? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, twice. And both times, at the end of the job (which were both successful BTW), I thought to myself "you are a dumb%$$ for not having just gotten the jims tool). FWIW  | ||
| Torquemonster |
update: The "easy-out" failed miserably. Note to self...DO NOT attempt an extraction without the friggin' Jims tool! The $86.00 I wouldve spent has now turned into a possible $260 for a new head. DAMMIT! | ||
| Djkaplan |
Damn Trav, sorry to hear this. Surely there is an alternative to a new head... Helicoil maybe? If done properly, it's more durable than tapping threads into just aluminum. Also, what do you think caused the stud to break? Is there anything different you'll do so it doesn't happen again? | ||
| Psyclonej |
I took mine to a machine shop and had it replaced w/ a couple of days turnaround time. Well spent $35.00. | ||
| Torquemonster |
I know EXACTLY what caused the failure, DJ...Operator error, plain and simple. (Score one for the reasoning behind pre-ride inspections) Ill just call myself a dumba$$ and write it off as an expensive reminder to re-torque the nuts (a 2nd time) after installing a header. Apparently, once isnt enough, because my bike has a wicked case of shaken baby syndrome. I have a machinist working on it (at $70.00 per hour) but my helper that fudged the easy out agreed to buy me a new head if necessary. Its funny...I recall saying that I didnt want to touch the problem without the Jims tool. Ah, hindsight....thats the last time I tell my gut feeling to "hush up". It could be worse...I just wish I could ride. Having it torn down has sparked an interest in making a few modifications...maybe a port job and X1/Andrews N4 cams. Wont the X1 cams shift the powerband away from the low/midrange power and more towards top end? If so, that idea goes straight to the $hitter. The M2's low end/midrange is what made me fall in love with it. Clarification would be greatly appreciated (DJ?.....DJ?....) (Message edited by TORQUEMONSTER on June 19, 2008) | ||
| Skank |
i've broke two, the solution is to call my machinest,Herb,he digs them out with the heads still on the bike,i think he charged me about forty bucks (friendly price) who needs Jim when you got Herb?? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Trav... I'm thinking that race kit you have will work pretty good with slightly more agressive cams. The longer primaries are supposed to move the torque peak to a lower rpm. That's all conjecture though... my engine is still stock except for the same race kit you have, but I bet someone else will have some good info. I love the midrange on my bike too. When I do my engine, every mod is going to be for midrange torque, not a high end horsepower hit. | ||
| Choggie |
I have a similar issue-Buell Blast 06'-All 4 rear isolator bolts sheered off-I am faced with bolt extraction-all four, in the engine block-They can't be re-tapped-I can get in there with a right-angled drill to ready the bolts for extractor(s)-BUT I'M AFRAID TO!! I'd hate to have to shitcan a crankcase for the sake of stubborn bolt remnants torqued 30+ft lbs, stressed from the shear and anchored in factory lock-tite.... Any suggestions on the most effective means of bolt extraction? I.E. best tools and best procedure? |
