| Author | Message | ||
     Tom_b |
battery died completely on x-1 while riding. jump started it to get it home. put in new battery. ran like crap. use ecmspyware program to reset tps and see why running badly. after running trouble codes and resettin tps, still ran like crap. checked air ful value and was at 130. ideal is 100. reset afv to 100. runs as good as before all the crap. anybody else had this happen? was it from running the battery comp0letely till the bike died? or the jump starting? | ||
| Beachbuell |
Check your charging system. Batteries do not usually just die while riding. | ||
| Tom_b |
the battery was at least 5 yrs old. i had to charge a couple of times before just to ride. Charging system is o.k.. Just old battery when they get old and don't hold a charge very well they die. (Message edited by tom_b on June 07, 2008) | ||
| Buell78758 |
Same happened to battery on my Bro's S3, was about 5 years old or more. Was working fine, then crapped out just before a big ride.....gave him a battery out of my X-1 and fired up just fine. He and wife touring through Utah now! CN | ||
| Mbsween |
Tom, Mine did something similar when my VR went. I was riding a 90 mile run and the last 15 miles were cutting in/out as the VR and battery died. Even with the new battery the bike ran like crap. Back in the olden days (pre VDSTS and ECMspy) there was a procedure to reset the AFV that required running for a distance in 5th gear between 3k-4k rpm, although that was many guinnesses ago, so I may not have it exactly. Anyways thats what fixed mine. I'm not at all sure why it happens, obviously a software routine, maybe they do that to make sure anything that is first started runs really rich? I also had the temp sensor die, but not throw a code. It ran about the same, really rich, to the point of fouling plugs | ||
| Reepicheep |
If the battery goes completely open (something internally physically breaks) then it is the same as not having a battery on the bike. Even my M2 would barely run with no battery, and that had a carb. It's a wonder an X1 would run at all. Could be other problems, but a catastrophic battery failure *could* reasonably cause the symptoms you describe. That being said, its really easy to make some quick VR and Stator checks. The easiest is to take off the primary chain inspection cover and take a deep whiff. Blown stators can often (not always) stink like you wouldn't believe. | ||
| Buellistic |
1) Keep you battery on TRICKLE CHARGE when not riding !!! Recommend a Battery Tender Plus ... Has a RED LED which indicates "CHARGING" .. Has a GREEN LED which indicates "Storage Charging"(ie: float charge) When and if the GREEN LED flashes when on charge, THIS INDICATES THE BATTERY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT TAKE A FLOAT CHARGE ... Batteries are not created equal even though they are made with the came components ... Some are good for two years if they even reach it, others last over 4 years ... The better you take care of your battery the less MYSTERY battery and electrical problems you will have ... Check the tightness of the battery terminal every 5K miles(charging system trying to charge into loose terminals), 3/4 inch play on the tight spot on your primary chain(primary chain too tight causes high heat which kills electrical components, ie: stator which in turn kills the voltage regulator and battery) ... Last, but not lest, tye wrap all your loose wires/wiring so when you are riding they are not getting the wiggle test which causes bad connections ... In turn, a bad battery that you are trying to get that last electron out of can take out the regulator and stator ... | ||
| Sloppy |
+1 for battery tender. It has saved me over $200 in recovering dead batteries from my other vehicles... And when you purchase a new battery you're supposed to put it on a charger prior to installing -- tender does exactly that. | ||
| Bikerjim99 |
+1 for loose battery bolts. Need to be checked frequently. Battery tender works very well, has kept my battery in fine condition since 1999. |
