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Limitedx1
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 11:19 am: |
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ok i have read enough about rotors and fluid and bleeding in the kv to know pretty much what i need to do. my question is which rotors, pads, lines are the best. also here is my proposed course of action i need a new front rotor because the buell one shakes my bike vigorously under hard braking, should i get the ebc or another good stock one? my bike has 6k miles, should i bother rebuilding both master cylinders, or would it be better for my sanity to do it all at once, so i know no part of the system is left behind. also what can be done with the rear rotor itself, it is not warped but may have a film or surface hardening, should i hone it? if somebody who has done this before can write me a parts list (stay away from buell dealers) it would be a big help. already got rear ebc double h pads, here is what i am proposing to buy, ebc front rotor, ebc front pads, both rebuild kits from American Sport Bike, maybe some braided lines if i can track them down. anything im missing, or any shortcuts i can take, or anywhere to find a cheaper front rotor. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 02:17 pm: |
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My X1s front brake pulsated and shook like a wet dog, the front rotor run out was/is within .005. Thanks to this forum I called American Sport Bike and ordered Lyndall Gold pads front and rear,wish I would have done it a year ago. Super brakes no pulsating mucho more stopping power over oem pads. The front bedded in right off the rear took about twenty minutes. Your X1 should have come with braided lines from the factory,if it were me I'd install new pads and bleed/flush with fresh fluid. (Message edited by J.ramsey on June 02, 2008) |
Skntpig
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 04:28 pm: |
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+1 on the Lyndall Golds. I had the older EBC greens (Soft Race) and they would overheat quick although you may not have the same problem with the HHs. |
Limitedx1
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 06:05 pm: |
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so just a set of new pads in the front could take the shake away? i hope thats all it is because rotors are $$$$$. my front line is braided, not too sure about the rear. unless it is wrapped in a black sheath |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 07:01 pm: |
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check the FSM IIRC the book calls for total overhaul at 4 years American Sport Bike can source any thing that you need. I did it all lines/calipers and mc's world of difference. your bike your $ your AZZ (Message edited by oldog on June 02, 2008) |
Fullauto
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 08:25 am: |
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If yours is a '99 I'd put new lines on and change to Dot 4 fluid.'00 on had Dot 4 as standard. If rebuilding the calipers and master cylinders it shouldn't be a problem to get all the old fluid out. Al told me that it was difficult to get all the old Dot 5 out of the lines themselves and it would cause problems if you didn't. I bought new braided line and the fittings to make up new lines. Next job on the list. |
Fullauto
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 08:27 am: |
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Oh, yes, I put a Braking wave disc on the front with Lyndall pads and liked it so much I did the same to the rear. Much more progressive. |
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