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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 05, 2008 » Rear brake, no pressure, wont bleed?? « Previous Next »

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Dnchevyman
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 07:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok, so my bolt that holds the rear brake fluid reservore came loose, allowing the reservore to master cylinder line to touch the belt and rub a small hole in it. so i replaced the hose, and now i have NO rear brakes at all. nothing, not even a slight drag when pushing on the pedal. tried bleeding it for 10 minutes then had to go. i havent really looked at it yet, as im in the process of rebuilding my dirtbike engine and pulling the engine out of my mud drag racer. so im kind of feeling out the possabilities before i even touch foot in the shop to work on it. I figured i'd try to vacuum bleed it first. but we shall see.
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Numb_nutz
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 08:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IT'S GOT AIR IN IT. SOMETIME IT TAKES A LONG TIME TO BLEED THE NORMAL WAY. TRY REMOVING THE CALIPER AND HOLDING IT HIGHER THAN THE MASTER CYLINDER. THE AIR WILL COME OUT A LOT EASIER THAT WAY. PUT SOMETHING IN BETWEEN THE PADS SO THE PISTON STAYS IN.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My friend's M2 lost the fluid cap and he got a massive amount of air in there.
We tried bleeding it the normal way and that failed.
We then went to the auto parts place and picked up a vacuum pump thing.
This was supposed to be the best way of doing it.
We failed at that too!

We finally gave up and sent it to the dealership.
They fixed it and charged like 20 minutes of time.
I don't know what they did. magic?

More to the point, I don't know what my friend and I were doing WRONG!
It's the type of thing that keeps you awake at night.
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Fasted
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

kv posting for syringe method. it allows the caliper to remain attached. the syringe shoves fluid thru the caliper to the reservoir, forcing the air out of the system in the direction it came from.....
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Jackbequick
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2008 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another good way is to use a Mity-Vac, seal around the bleeder screw with teflon tape (to prevent air leaks there), and then put a suction on the bleeder screw with fluid in the reservoir.

With a drained system, it will take about 30 or 40 strokes on the brake pedal (full down to full up) and then the fluid will appear.

This method also pulls new clean fluid through the system and will often pull a few tiny air bubbles with it that were hanging out somewhere in the caliper.

A side benefit of using the teflon tape is that is also keeps water and even road salt residue from accumulating in the little pocket where the bleeder screw sets and rusting the bleeder screw into place. Put a little dab of silicon sealant or grease in the end of the bleeder screw also before you recap it, that keeps water out of there if the cap comes off or gets lost.

If you let a bleeder screw rust into place it is almost a sure thing that you're going to strip the hex or break it off and the caliper is usually history at that point.

Jack
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V74
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 07:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i had the above symptoms on my 99 M2,thought i had air in it,tried to put oil in the caliper with a syringe,eventually found a seal had gone in the master cylinder,installed a kit i got from my local stealer and worked straight away,
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Skntpig
Posted on Wednesday, May 28, 2008 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same issue. If any of the seals ever get dry due to the leak it is time for a rebuild or new master cylinder. If you have alot of air inside it may give you this symptom too. While you have it down you might as well research speedbleeders. They work well.
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Onahog
Posted on Thursday, May 29, 2008 - 01:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok...My 2 cents...
I worked on auto brakes for 16yrs...Owned and operated a Midas Muffler...

Now you are gonna laugh here>...

I went to a brake school...They all used pressure bleeders, vavumm bleeders etc...

Well, me being a country boy, the instructor asked, How do ya do it out there?

So, I told him my method...
{This is providing your seals are all good, and your relief port in not plugged}>

Well, i siad ..first off, ya gotta smoke butts.

Every one confused looked at me..

Hang the calpier lower than the resevoir...
Remove res cap...Fill to top edge...
Open the bleader screw....
Light your smoke....
Gravity man....Water runs down hill!

It will quaranteedit will remove all air , and not disturbe any seals from pumping or bottoming out....Plus, it doesnt force water vapours/sh-t back up into your master or resevoir....

Just my 2 cents on that ...hankb
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