| Author | Message | ||
     Dnchevyman |
Im having a hell of a time finding new plugs for my 99x1. I dont want to run the champion made harley plugs. I would like to run NGK plugs. But cannot get a crossreference number. I saw the plugs listed in the Knowledge Vault section, but it didnt list what they fit. | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
buell pro series | ||
| Beachbuell |
Stock HD plugs. Never had a problem with them. You have a Sportster motor. Why would you put "aftermarket", import junk in it? | ||
| Dnchevyman |
because ngk is the best plug out there in my opinion. and hd plugs are rebadged champion plugs there buddy... i wouldnt run champions in a lawn mower i got for free. | ||
| Oldog |
DCM some one has d the Xref, | ||
| Crashbuell |
I really like the autolites. My bike fires on the first rollover when I hit the switch. | ||
| Beachbuell |
""because ngk is the best plug out there in my opinion. and hd plugs are rebadged champion plugs there buddy... i wouldnt run champions in a lawn mower i got for free."" Uh, yeah.... OK...... There's one born everyday. | ||
| Buellisticx1 |
Excellent report about spark plugs, in addition of related topics with Tuber Frame take a look: http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/marriott/x1/#FI Be aware that the Buell pro series plugs use an 11/16 hex instead of the standard 5/8 of the H-D plugs. I made the mistake of just buying them and heading out on a trip, only to find out the difference while trying to change fouled plugs on the road. If you're fowling out your rear plug in the cooler weather you might want to switch to a hotter plug, but then how can you tell you need to do this? If the plug shows you're running the right fuel mixture but the porcelain is black your plug is too cold. When the fuel mixture is close to right you'll see a very thin line around the porcelain about 1/16" from the top. If the tip is white you're too lean no matter what the plug temp. Ideally the porcelain should be white with just a splotch of brown where the fuel hits the plug and the tip a very light shade of tan. Install 10R12 plugs (the Blast! plug) as soon as possible, it eliminates 90% of the detonation. The 10R12 is the rebadged H-D version of the Champion Plug #809 (or RA6HC... old nbr) and costs 3X more. Champion Plug #810 ( or RA8HC) is the old OEM plug. The correct 10R12 replacement is NGK DCPR8E - its reach is a little longer but there is no interference. This plug has the correct terminal stud and uses the same 5/8" socket to install. Colder plugs use a higher number, e.g., DCPR9E. The DPR8EA-9 is the same heat range but it uses an 18mm vs. the 5/8" socket and has a terminal stud rather than a nut. Other NGK plugs... NGK DPR7EA-9 HOTTER NGK DPR8EA-9 (#4929) 18mm / pre-gapped More $$$. NGK DPR9EA-9 (#5329) COOLER NGK DCPR7E HOTTER NGK DCPR8E (#4179) 16mm / large pushon top connector NGK DCPR9E COOLER DPR7EIX-9 (#7803) IRIDIUM HOTTER DPR8EIX-9 (#2202) IRIDIUM 16mm / screw Terminal Nut DPR9EIX-9 (#5545) IRIDIUM COOLEST 145 degree difference between each heat range... I have over 15,000 miles on my Torque Masters. I am running a 00' X-1, Race ECM, K&N and White Bros. E-Series. Never a pinging problem, never a fouling problem. Mine are equal to the 6R12PP H-D plugs not the 10R12. I know a number of FI Buelligans that have had fouling problems with the 10R12 or their equal. Once you go to the Race ECM and good gas you should not have pinging problems with the 6R12 equals. When ever I put my T-M's back in, I can always feel a smoothness difference between them and any new plug. That is even with 15,000+ miles on these T-M's. Give a shout to Maury (the Inventor and Owner) and he can make any heat range or hex size you need. I've been running Torque Master Plugs for about 10,000 miles and all I can say is... save your money. The torque master plugs do last longer than any other conventional plug, but they are about $15! 5 times more than a conventional plug. In addition there is no performance increase. I reviewed both gas mileage and dynamometer testing and there is no difference. I personally like NGK since their tips don't seem to round off as quickly. If you need a good plug use Auto-Lite # 4163 They are like the 10R12 plugs of stock Buell. They are both copper electros end plugs but Auto-lite is cheaper (#4163 $2.ea.) I don't believe in the Split-Fire plugs on Buells. I'd rather have one big spark than two little ones. From what I'm told the Torque Masters are like the Split-Fire ones but with more than one end. Buell ECM is set-up like a car... they'd rather have one spark than a lot of little ones. And don't use Bosch Plugs, they foul even quicker. If you want more power out of your plugs index them towards the intake valve w/copper washers from Jacobs. Also make your spark plug gap a little bigger and use the wire type feeler gauge. Don't use the slide ramp type gauge better yet use the s/p gapping pliers (cost $50.) Plug gap is usually .002 more (example .042 change to .044) Buell specs. calls for .038 to .043 go to .045 and index the plugs and get give it a run. The only time that I would go wider in gap is when you get a hotter coil like a Jacobs coil. (my gap is .055) I hope that it is of interest to you.....}}} (Message edited by buellisticx1 on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Bob_thompson |
I like the NGK's also and modify them as seen in the picture below. I can buy them anywhere at $3.00/ea. and sometimes lower especially in bulk. The modification allows the spark to jump from two sharp edges which is much easier on the coil and puts the flame propagation unshrouded and right out in the center of the combustion chamber. An "old school trick" and one that works without the cost of some more elaborate plugs. Works for me. Bob  | ||
| Turboglh |
"because ngk is the best plug out there in my opinion. and hd plugs are rebadged champion plugs there buddy... i wouldnt run champions in a lawn mower i got for free." I'm just the opposite, I run champs in everything I own. They always work great, especially in boosted applications, and where NGK's have blown out even when properly gapped a set of champs always works great. On that note, try your local motor sports place, I needed a set of plugs this weekend and I was able to stop by my local place (ATV's, dirt bikes, jet-ski's, etc) and get a set. I gave them the champ p/n I wanted (didn't have any) but they crossed it to something they had in stock (ngk unfortunately, but nobody had the champs in stock) | ||
| Dnchevyman |
Im about the most ANTI champion plugs person out there. i just despise them. really, it doesnt matter what plug you are running as long as your engine is running and tuned correctly. I have NGK's now in my buell, ngk's are in my 550+ h.p. Mud drag truck, and ngk's are in my pos jeep Cherokee. I like them, never had a problem with em. whatever floats your boat on what you want to use, doesnt bother me. | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
Im not trying to start anything with you but can i ask why you would ask what plugs to use when your already set on your NGK's | ||
| Dnchevyman |
Because i didnt know the correct ngk plug number and figured someone would come up with them. and it made for a somewhat entertaining topic. I had the harley davidson (champion) plugs in my bike untill today. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I've been running NGK DCPR8E's in my '02 X1 (race ECM and exhaust) for about 10,000km's with no drama's. I'm a fan of NGK's too, cheap and available in pretty much every motorcycle shop here. cheers, chili |
