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Igneroid
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put the M2 in the basement last Nov and the oil level was just above the low mark when the bike was not on the side stand but held perpendicular to the ground. The bike has been hanging from the ceiling all winter and now there seems to be no oil in the tank. Has it all drained into the crankcase?? Is this bad?? Im about ready to fire this puppy up and was gonna change oil ...But... where did it go???
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 03:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, drained into the crank case all right. Totally normal, that's why we're advised to check the oil and perform fluid changes with the bike nice and warm.

Just fire her up and let her run 'til she's warm, then check your levels again. You want to let it run long enough that the oil is all scavenged out of the case or you'll over fill on the oil change - and then start posting questions about why you're blowing the cap off your oil res.

Just one of the little joys of owning a Buell

-Mike
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Silas_clone
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 05:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's one for you.
I have been commuting 80 miles round trip on RT 85, which means a constant 80-85 mph.

Hardly any oil usage.

Normally, running on backroads at 55-75 mph, I had to add 3 ozs every 150 miles or so.

I felt like the oil mist was being sent out the breather line, I just have a 3 foot length of hose routed along the swingarm.

Why less usage at high speeds?
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Jos51700
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Why less usage at high speeds?"

High-speed cruise creates less vacuum than the on-off-on-off-on throttle action of lower speeds, hills, and curves.

Less vacuum pulls less oil from rings, valve guide seals, and PCV systems.

Buggles did a great job explaining the "No-oil in there, but I know it had some" question!
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe you need these, SEAL,valve
PN 18232-93R ???
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you CHECK YOUR "OIL": do it with the bike on the side stand and engine running after your ride ...

When you first pull the dip tick out is the TRUE OIL LEVEL !!!

YOU MUST HAVE AN AIR SPACE IN THE OF THE OIL TANK BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE OIL AND THE TOP OF THE OIL TANK !!!

If you do not have this correct air space, the engine will get rid of the extra oil if the oil tank is over filled until the engine is happy with the oil level(ie: meaning the satisfactory air space) ...
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice blurb about you in the latest Fuell magazine Lafeyette! But in listing the places you have gone, you forgot to mention Rabbit Hash! : )
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bill:

What was put in the MAGAZINE was what my ENGLISH Teachers would to me in school,
ie: "EDIT" to their liking and fill the space allowed ...

We need to keep "Rabbit Hash" a secrete because we will not have any place to park when we can go back ...

Looks like "i" will be up that way in JULY, will PING with "INFO" ... You can then get to hear a HIGH MILEAGE engine run ...

In BUELLing
LaFayette

(Message edited by buellistic on April 16, 2008)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll look forward to that LaFayette!

I knew it was edited, not ENOUGH capital LETTERS! ;)
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Djkaplan
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My oil consumption and spooge production drastically lowered when I let the oil level get lower than factory recommended in my 2000 M2. I run a longer filter to keep oil capacity about the same.

If you think your bike eats a lot of oil, try letting the oil level down and keep monitoring the consumption. I have a feeling a lot of my previous oil consumption was actually the engine 'self leveling' itself to the oil level it works best at.
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Igneroid
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the help everyone. Glad its not a problem. Ive only put about a 1000 Km(600 miles) on this bike since I got it and during that time, it never needed toppping up. Always just above the add mark after a ride. I will do like you say Buellistic and check the oil with the engine running on the side stand.

One more question, how do you get all the dirty oil out when you change it. Is there more to an oil change than just draining the tank and spinning on a new filter?? Sorry for dum-ass question...

(Message edited by Igneroid on April 16, 2008)
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Jos51700
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run it till it's warm (Good excuse to get a ride in), and drain IMMEDIATELY, lest it begin the wet-sumpage.

I have, although I don't recommend it, begun draining oil while it's still running, to get as much of the old oil out as possible.
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Silas_clone
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oil change?
I cut the return line.
I then disconnect the line and run an extension
From the engine to a drain pan.
I drain the tank, refill it, change the filter etc., then start the bike and let old oil return from the engine into the drain pan.
When you see that you are flowing new oil, turn off the engine and reconnect the return line.
Top off the tank with a bit less oil than you pumped out and go for a ride.

Check your oil level after the ride.
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Igneroid
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You guys are the best...Thanks
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Jos51700
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Oil change?
I cut the return line.
I then disconnect the line and run an extension
From the engine to a drain pan.
I drain the tank, refill it, change the filter etc., then start the bike and let old oil return from the engine into the drain pan.
When you see that you are flowing new oil, turn off the engine and reconnect the return line.
Top off the tank with a bit less oil than you pumped out and go for a ride. "

Wow, I thought I was paranoid! That's "thorough" defined, right there!
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Silas_clone
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eh, I started doing this with my old bikes. They old Harleys usually had no [or not very good] filters.
The Sporty lasted a LONG time.

Not really a big deal, not sure if it's necessary and nobody [here] seems to like the idea, but it is easy to do.
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like John's oil change method.

Some of the really hard-core Triumph and BSA riders used to do it that way. I had forgotten all about that until reminded by the posts above.

I think I'll do same in the future. Clean oil is a good thing.

John, Thank you for that one.

Dave
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Silas_clone
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why thanks Dave!

I really never liked the thought of HD's "dry sump" design leaving oil in the crank case.

I hope it's worth the little effort it takes.

You gotta be careful topping up that oil tank after you drain the sump.

I try to use a catch container that will measure how much oil I lost
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Tictoc
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought it was fantastic when my '99 M2 matched my sons R6 with 75 mpg, hauling ass for 100's of miles at 90+mph. Now I have a better understanding of how this is possible. Whats considered high mileage to you? I am proud to have a well used M2 with nearly 60,000 miles. It uses a little oil. I carry an extra quart on tours. TT P.S. I have the oil puker hose pointed up under the seat and it never sprays oil. I figure it tries to, but the oil just drains back down into the motor. It's just a hose with nothing on the end of it at all.

(Message edited by tictoc on April 18, 2008)
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