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Milesvdustin
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey everyone!
Well, A little update on my current situation. I am in Iraq right now, and I've been out here for about 6 weeks of a 28 week tour with HML/A-167, a Marine attack helicopter squadron. I work on all the avionics and stuff in the birds. I have a '98 S1 waiting for me at home, I miss it so much! So since I am earning this extra combat pay and stuff, I was wondering what kind of mods I should do on the bike when I get back. Any suggestions? I already have an S&S Super E carb, andrews cams, V&H pipe, wrapped headers... I want to strip the bike to the frame and rebuild it with all new hardware, hoses, things like that. Any other ideas for modifications when I get back? Thanks for the tips!
Dustin
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dustin
Thanks for your service. Look to up grade your suspension. I would recommend a Works or Penske. Have your forks sprung for your weight and look at valving upgrades. SS brake lines if they aren't already installed. Make sure that you have the upgraded primary chain adjuster and the upgraded transmission shifter detent.
Just a start for your first year back.
Joe

(Message edited by bad_karma on April 15, 2008)
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 03:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, great advice on the suspension. Best bang for the buck on overall ridability improvement.

Other pipes can provide better midrange, I lost torque when I went from a White Bro's E-series to the V & H. So when that pipe dies try the Supertrapp or another tunable model.

Thanks here too, be safe!
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Milesvdustin
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 03:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the primary adjuster done, not the tranny shift detent. I assume there is a lot on that subject in the KV? I was definitely going to do the suspension, just didn't put it in there. How much are stainless brake lines? I like my vance and hines, it works good when it is packed. I think I need the carburetor tuned, it misses and loses power real bad around 5k rpms. I have put on new fuel lines and cleaned everything, it seems like it is getting fuel starved at the highest rpms.
This is my second time out here, I will probably be back yet again next year before I am finished. Thanks for the support, we really appreciate it!
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 05:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stock front line is stainless, the rear should be swapped though if you are someone who uses it, I know I do. I had a local shop make a line for me using the stock ends, was about $50. you can buy a replacement from American Sport Bike for $80-100 if I remember right.

Do you use stock spec brake pads? Switching to Lyndall Gold compound made my brakes better, no more pulsing or squealing.

The XB rocker box covers are nice for cleaning up breather routing, plus you get one less gasket to have leaking (two piece instead of three)...
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Tweekin2
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for your service. We are all behind you over here!
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Cyclonemduece
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thank you for defending our freedom.
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Jrobm2
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dustin,
Thanks for what you do. My wife and I are prior service with many friends still in making the trip back and forth to Iraq and Afgan. Take care and be safe.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Miles:
penski shock, suspension upgrades
and others to taste.

Thanks for your service.
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Warlizard
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Miles, the Democrats may not appreciate you, but I do. I am prior service myself, wish you the best.
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Milesvdustin
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 04:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you all for the support, it means a whole lot! I for sure want to get the brakes done, and suspension. Think I could get one of those Axtell 88" kits in there? I heard they really rip. Thanks!
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 04:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

88" is neat! The XB heads/jugs are supposed to produce some killer power too though... Higher compression, better cooling with more fins...
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 02:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Miles,

Thank sincerely for your service; I wish combat pay was a lot higher.

I tend to shy away recommending the 88" kits due to the machining required, which increases the price significantly. The stock engine cases must be split and bored in order to accept the big bore 88"-kit cylinders. Also, one of the bolts holding the two case halves together, the one that passes between the two cylinders ends up getting machined (losing material) in order to avoid interference with each 88" cylinder spigots (portion of cylinder that protrudes into engine cases). That has got to be one of the more important bolts holding the cases together; removing a significant amount of material is not catastrophic, just something that tends to give me pause.

Lots of folks run the 88" kits though. Axtell is a good source, so is Revolution Performance, the folks who plate the cylinders for the Buell XBRR racing engines.

It would be very beneficial to you if you can define precisely in words what exactly you want performance-wise, not just peak HP; describe the character that you want for the engine, the powerband emphasis you are looking for, how important is longevity and reliability versus tire shredding hot-rod performance? Then figure out how much you are willing to invest, and send those specifications to each of the highly experienced and competent performance engine shops you can find know. Get their recommendations and pricing, then decide which one to give your business. If you let them do all the engine work, you won't be sorry.

If you are enthused about tackling the engine modification work yourself, be sure to find a performance parts provider that is willing to spend time advising you as needed. I know that all the performance shops that help support us here are willing to do just that.

See (in alphabetical order)...

Cycle Rama
Hal's Speed Shop
Johnson Engine Technology
Ray Price H-D/Buell Performance Shop

Ray Price H-D/Buell is the closest to your home in NC.
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Milesvdustin
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 02:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey... Well, I am looking for nothing crazy in terms of super duper hot rod performance, but some more oomph than the carb, cams, and exhaust have done would be nice. I was thinking about the 1250 kit, how much of a difference does that provide? Cost isn't really an issue, I was looking to spend about 4k in total on stuff anyways. I would be letting the shop do all the engine work of course, I don't have the facilities to do much more than drop the motor at best. Thanks again for the advice!
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Bad_karma
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 03:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dustin
Let me preface this with I weight 300 pounds dressed. The 1250 was a noticeable improvement but nothing like the 88". The 1250 will start to life the front in 1st above 6200, now the 88" will yank the front up in first at around 3500. The 1250 will fit into your budget, the 88" with the other things you have planned with need an additional 50% in the budget.
Joe
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