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Grovskopa
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK this is problem nr 5 in less than a month ha ha ha

I have to tap gear stick twice to get into/out of 4th gear.. There is also a rattling/ticking sound coming from gearbox.

Any ideas?
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Cyclonemduece
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i dont understand what that means^^^^ the rattling sound may be the chain tensioner broken, open it up and have a look
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Primary chain tensioner? Or did you already fix that one? The new part has a base plate twice as thick...
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like the detent plate or spring may have an issue. It's easy to peer inside and see, but you have to take the primary cover off.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK will do on sunday. It is rather cheap and easy to fix nay (please oh god say "yes")
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chances are good it'll be a cheap and easy fix, but you'll have to investigate to be sure.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Now fourth gear is GONE!
I get neutral between third and fifth.. .
Does that explain the problem more?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh my god.
I would suggest you push that bike up the previous owner's anus.

There's no way that all of these failures are just "bad luck".

if you do decide to fix it yourself, at least our bikes have a trapdoor tranny.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope, surely he me over. I would kick his ass but he is boss of BANDIDOS Sweden. Dunno if you know about them but they are as big as Hells Angels here, and almost as powerful.. So I don't think I will as much as yell at him ;)

So.. How do I proceed to fix it?
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Turk
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First things first, if you haven't done so already, do a clutch adjustment. Most Sportster "transmission" issues are actually maladjusted clutches.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK and how do I do that? Any guide online or such?
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Turk
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fully loosen the clutch cable (adjuster in front of the engine), open the inspection cover in the primary cover, remove the little spring and lock plate it's holding, turn the screw counterclockwise until it lightly seats (go back and forth a couple of times to be sure) and the go back clockwise 1/4 turn. Reinstall the lock plate and spring, reinstall the inspection cover and readjust the cable for a couple of millimeters of freeplay at the lever.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK will do tomorrow when sun's up! Thanks a lot!
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow. I cannot believe the level of issues you are having with this bike!
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Haha I know it is turning comic!
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Cyclonemick
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A service manual is money well spent.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got one but I don't know "technical" English..
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Jos51700
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We'll help you!
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Grovskopa
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks a bunch =)
I need to lie bike down before opening up clutch no? Or else oil will leak...?
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1. remove muffler
2. remove transmission drain plug
3. drain oil
4. remove 2 small covers
5. unhook end of clutch cable at clutch.
[ slide actuator out ]
6. loosen primary chain tensioner
7. remove screws and primary cover
8. take lots of pictures and post them here
we want to help you.
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Turk
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's to take off the primary cover which is not necessary to adjust the clutch. The bike vertical will not leak any oil.

(Message edited by turk on April 14, 2008)
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Turk
why would clutch adjust cause symptons the Swede is indicating? [ no forth gear ]

I have to tap gear stick twice to get into/out of 4th gear.. There is also a rattling/ticking sound coming from gearbox.
Then

Now fourth gear is GONE!
I get neutral between third and fifth.. ••••••.
Does that explain the problem more?


I have considered clutch dragging but no other gears are acting up.


As Dj points out

Sounds like the detent plate or spring may have an issue. It's easy to peer inside and see, but you have to take the primary cover off.


If the cassette has to come out you are half way there.

There are instances where adjusting the clutch makes sense, like all gears are hard to get, neutral is hard to get pronounced noises ( chain shoe issue )

How ever it is well documented here that the pawl / circlip and pin issue can cause this type of tranny problem and the primary must come off to inspect / correct for it.

BTW good descritpion of the clutch adjustment.

My 0.02$


(Message edited by oldog on April 13, 2008)
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Turk
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Grovskopa - skip this post until after you've done a clutch adjustment and only come back if you're still having issues, otherwise you'll be making this face before you even start -

Oldog - I completely agree with everything you've said and I hate to say it, but my suspicion would be that the drum is all burred up and that has made the gears difficult to engage due to more effort required to rotate the drum which has now probably led to the dogs at least a couple of gears to be rounded off so instead of helping to pull the gears together, they're just not engaging at all. Hopefully it didn't happen to the bottle gear as well as that one doesn't come out with the cassette. The reason I suggested a clutch adjustment is that if it's out of adjustment, it could make this situation worse, particularly rounding off of the dogs. If fourth gear is gone, it's probably too late, but in my opinion, it's worth the 20 minute investment to try it out. Plus, too many times when people start investigating a transmission issue, clutch adjustment is very, very often over looked but should always be step one (since if it's not fully disengaging, shifting gets more difficult, doesn't always engage or will briefly only to kick back out and lead to the rounded off dogs). As for why it's only in fourth gear, if you look at which gears are engaging / disengaging, you can see why fourth is usually the first to start seeing issues.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 03:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cant sleep!
Ok 20 minutes cant hurt,
have you seen "the in out in thing" with the clutch.
I have that happen intermittingly and have adjusted the clutch several times
30 k on bike and
only when leaving a light bike jumps as if clutch is pulled in then dumped.
1 qt in the tranny too.

I right or wrong believe that the 1/2 pair see the most use so I am a little supprised #4 is at issue

FSM is at office I "ASSUME" that the bottle gear is the 5th gear assm.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Monday, April 14, 2008 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll just leave it to the mechanic who will do the rear shock recall replacement. It will probably cost quite a bit but I don't really wanna mess inside the engine.. Only outside things are for me, I am a blacksmith by profession so I don't really have a gentle hand..
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Big_koch
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 01:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Same problem with my bike from the day I bought it. Just now getting around to fixing it. It's gonna cost me about $120, not including my time, nor the extra cost of the Baker smooth shift drum. 1st gear dogs on the mainshaft are shot. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Shots of the carnage:





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Grovskopa
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shit that last pic really really really convinced me to NOT try and fix it myself hahaha-
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Big:
man that is one ugly gear!
you ought to post it up as you go thru it.
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Ducxl
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Big...I've been there.Great time to get intimate with your transmission.I spent a winter repeatedly assembling/dismantling an '87 Sporty trans.Broken dogs,Fun stuff
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The trapdoor transmission in solidmount Sportsters and tube-frame Buells is really easy to work on. All you need is common tools and an easy to fabricate lockbar (and a service manual, of course).

If you are really strapped for cash and living on shoestring, I'd consider getting another motorcycle. If you aren't prepared to work on the bike yourself, you'll go broke paying other people to fix the niggling problems we've all encountered.

I've been through the damper issues and transmission problems myself. I get a great sense of accomplishment doing the work myself... but if the motorcycle is your only source of transportation, it sounds like you really need a more reliable starting point.

Your stator is going to fry itself next, btw.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stator fry itself?

I would fix it myself but as I said earlier I am not that delicate with stuff,. Always when I handle smaller mechanical things I manage to break something. Blacksmith's Hands
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Djkaplan
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are more than capable of working on this bike yourself. It's not your hands that are the problem; it's what's in your head that keeps telling you you're not.

You should at least get a service manual so you know what's going on.
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Grovskopa
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got the service manual CD..
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Cyclonemduece
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 10:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

grovskopa go find that cliff...i feel for ya
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