| Author | Message | ||
     Werewulf |
i would like to start a thread about my S-3 upgrade project...im doing everything from EFI to carb conversion and so on...i can share some of my experiences and get some answers to problems as i go.. at the moment, i have the bike stripped down to the frame and motor and have installed a NHRS motor bracket...i also want to install a Stenzel bracket and im having a problem understanding the dialect in the instructions....has anyone installed a stenzel brace?..it looks like i should discard the D washer and just use the brace..the kit also includes 2 thick and 2 thin washers and i havent a clue wich goes where....anyone? | ||
| Xldevil |
Yes,you´re right.You got to discard that D-washer. The other washers are meant to level the distance between the Stenzel bracket and the tie bar,as well as between the center mount and the Stenzel Stütze (bracket).The installation instruction emphasizes that the Stenzel bracket has to be mounted absolute strainless.Use the washers to ensure that. You also have to tighten all bolts at first only by hand and then you got to torque them down in the given sequence (or correct order). Don´t forget to check all bolts and nuts again after 100 miles  If I can help you by further information,don´t hesitate to ask. Ralph (Message edited by Xldevil on April 06, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
I've yet to understand the point of adding that bracket. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Can I have all your old FI stuff? | ||
| Werewulf |
thank you, ralph!! | ||
| Werewulf |
this is the stenzel..  view of the NHRS motormount  the evil DDFI.  actually it ran very well with the FI...never had a problem...im a minimalist i guess.. but then if i screw up, ill be someone with nothing to ride... the stand off that holds the clutch cable on my new xb broke and the cable fried on the exhaust.. i havent decided what im going to do with the take off FI stuff yet.. (Message edited by werewulf on April 06, 2008) | ||
| Xldevil |
I've yet to understand the point of adding that bracket This bracket transfers some of the front engine mount and bolts braking stress,caused by the vertical movement of the engine,to the upper center mount. Ralph | ||
| Ratbuell |
Werewulf - there's a new clutch cable wireform part number. If you haven't found it on here yet, PM me and I'll send it to you. It's a MUCH stouter piece than the original bent-wire part. | ||
| Werewulf |
im trying to make this as basic and old school as possible... my first hurdle, is getting rid of unecessary wiring.. ive cut into the wiring harness and started removing wires... the first thing i need to do is to find an S-3 wiring diagram, as im using an M-2 manual.. im having trouble with the relay block and the diodes...i think if i ground the side stand and clutch safety switch, i will be able to start... can the diodes be eliminated?? | ||
| Buell78758 |
Hi, thats great your doing a bunch of upgrades to your bike. I am very interested in tracking your work and how the mods help out. Thanks for keeping us Buellies posted! Good luck with the mods, Christian | ||
| Werewulf |
i had planned on installing an 883 sporty primary gear and chain to lower my gear ratio for better two up riding etc... i also wanted to do this mod, because the 99 and earlier bikes had a 4 bolt gear and the later had 8 bolts...this way i would get better bang for the buck on an upgrade...so i went to the dealer and looked at the 883 sporty parts book and found that harley never upgraded the sporty to 8 bolts until 04 when the new motor came out... i thought i was dead in the water, but while i was talking the NHRS about cutting my cam cover, he told me that first of all, the 4 bolt was not an issue in a street machine... then he said the xb 8 bolt gear would work in the 99.... so now it looks like i can upgrade to an 8 bolt after all... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Werewulf I just pulled the FI wires out of my harness. I can not image doing this with out a service manual. That NHRS mount looks nice. I just picked up an older S1 mount that I will get powder coated black before installing. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on April 08, 2008) (Message edited by bad_karma on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Xldevil |
Werewulf,AFAIK,on rigid mounted Evo-Sportsters,the 883 Sportster engine sprocket is not different in the number of teeth to the 1200´s or the tubers. Why don´t you just add 4 holes/threads to your already existing engine sprocket? Doing this you could lighten it too. I saved around 700 grams of rotating mass on my both engines and upgraded my Sportsters sprocket to the 8 bolts.My 2002 Cyclone has had that 8 bolt version. I switched to Andrews close ratio gears on both of my bikes` trannys, to give them a better acceleration. Ralph  Milled out and converted to 8 bolts sprockets on left and right.Original in the middle (Message edited by Xldevil on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
ralph, thats impressive work!....alas i live in a small town and dont have a machinist available to me... what do you think about putting the XB9 sprocket in and having a lower gear ratio and the 8 bolts?? | ||
| Xldevil |
Thank you,Werewulf. I don´t know if the XB9 sprocket fits a tuber. The 8 bolt thing is more or less a gimmick.Not really necessary,IMHO. You can buy a shortened primary (engine sprocket and chain) over here in Europe. http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=229&cid=283&s=&a= If you are in to the primary anyway,don´t forget to get rid of the clutch spring plate and to switch to the thicker primary chain tensioner and the upgraded detente plate if you didn´t have done this already. Always use OEM and new bolts for the engine sprocket,the alternator and a genuine Buell and new engine sprocket nut.Never reuse these parts!Don´t cheat on this just to save a few bucks.Could become a fatal error. Ralph (Message edited by Xldevil on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
i spent my time today, getting rid of useless wiring...this is scary!.. my twin tech ignition arrived and it looks like a quality item..the ignition module is spooking me a little, as i dont see why i need the diodes... im eliminating all the safety switches etc... (Message edited by werewulf on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
ok, something i just thought about....without an ecm, will i have a speedometer? or a tach, i think not...now what are my options? (Message edited by werewulf on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Onahog |
WW....Once ya getter done, let me no what ya did with the ECM part of it...Im just about ready ta sh-t can a DDFI system as well and convert to a carb.. I thought of doin it with a S/e module and sensor plate for ignitoin but then a VOES would be needed too...You must be gonna use a mechanical advance unit? Hankb | ||
| Werewulf |
im trying to take the bike to the bare minimum, like a chopper... the twin tech should take care of the ignition...i bought the entire kit, that comes with the voes and coil...im also working on putting one inch handlebars and standard harley controls on it... i have bit off a lot, i know.. theres a first time for everything..thats the great thing about this forum... people helping people with projects... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Dave I know for sure that you will still have the Speedo or should I say it doesn't go through the ECM. The white wire from the sensor goes to the speed without any junction. The gray wire is power to the sensor. Now it all depends upon how much wiring you removed. The tach output of the twin tech can be used. I'm assuming it has an output, my crane did. Near the steering head is a connector with 10 wires in it. The pink wire on pin 7 is where I recommend that you hook in.It comes from pin 12 of the black connector of the ecm, no junctions along the way. To bypass the side stand look at pin 85 of ignition relay tan with white tracer. Clutch switch is tan with green tracer. Neutral switch and light is tan. Hope this helps. Joe [URL=http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img2281aij6.jpg][IMG]http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2122/img2281aij6.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL] (Message edited by bad_karma on April 09, 2008) | ||
| Bad_karma |
Dave Here is a picture of the tachometer wire location. The black connector behind the pink wire is the connector for the speedometer and tachometer. Joe  | ||
| Werewulf |
thanks joe! ive thrown away a bunch of wire that went to the EFI and i keep coming up with a grey wire that goes to the ecm from the tach and speed and i cant figure out what to do with it...ill take some pics to show my delima...im glad that i will still have the ability to have a speed and tach without the ecm....i was trying to figure out what to do, like buy and aftermarket tach (the twin tech has a provision for a tach) and use the tach for a speed...or use a gps or an old radar gun, har har! | ||
| Numb_nutz |
I switched my 99 S3 to a carb last year, I'm using the stock ignition and it works fine. you can even use the efi manifold if you wanted. I didn't even have to replace the throttle cables. I unhooked the tps, injectors, head temp sensor and pulled the check engine lamp bulb. Life is much better now. | ||
| Werewulf |
that method sure would have saved a lot of money and headaches...well, im too far into it now to back out... | ||
| Onahog |
Numb Nutz Hey Bro....Can ya explain to me in detail what ya done for the carb conversion? I have a cv carb and intake already... So, one can just connect the FI stuff and your good ta go? Everything works? Ecm works the ignition system still? Did ya put in a fuel valve? Sorry for all the ?, but this injection as pretty much pissed me off already... Thx..Hankb.... | ||
| Werewulf |
several people have said that they used their FI tanks and adapted a valve..however, i looked at a FI tank and a carb tank and they are more different than just the valve...the FI tank uses a fuel pick-up from the fuel pump in the rear of the tank... it appeared to me that if you used a FI tank and a carb, that you would not be able to use all the gas in the tank due to gravity... the carb tank has an indention on the bottom, so that all the gas goes to the valve from gravity.. thats why i spent the extra bucks and bought a carb tank from a forum member... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Dave My schematic does not show gray going to the speedometer or the Tachometer. I think that gray is going to the coil and the Data link connector. The speedometer gets it's power on the orange with white tracer from junction S6 via connector #39 (black ten pin) behind steering head at pin #1. The red wire on pin 5 is for memory. The gray wire comes from pin 87 of the ignition system power (DC back next to the fuses) coil to S16. From S16 it goes to: 1) Bank Angle Sensor 2) junction S21 3) Ignition coil 4)Front & Rear fuel injectors 5) fuel pump 6) Pin 1 black connector of ECM. From S21 it goes to: 1) speed sensor 2)Data link connector. I used a pingel petcock and removed the fuel pump, removed the regulator and cut enough of the pump assembly out of the way to clear the petcock but still leave the low fuel sensor and wiring. I think you will find that the petcock is at or just slightly lower that the pump pickup was at. A 500+ mile trip last year and didn't really notice any difference.   | ||
| Joesbuell |
Does this Stenzel bracket work? also does it transfer more vibes? Jodie I may have to make one meself.... | ||
| Werewulf |
i havent ridden with the stenzel yet, thats part uf my upgrade list.. xldevil is the authority on it.... i completely rewired my FLHT last year and converted it to a roadking and it was a straight foward project... this is different as their is a lot of guess work involved... ok, my latest plan is to install an M-2 wiring harness that i bought on ebay....it would already have the FI part eliminated and still be intact...plus, i have a wiring diagram for an m-2....i can get it running with the M-2 gear and then bolt on the daytona stuff...oh well, this is a learning project for me and an expensive one... it kind of defeats my plan to do an old school bike, with just a few wires and simplicity... my alternative, is to buy some aftermarket speedo and tach that is self contained...the downside to that is resale and i would end up parting it out.. | ||
| Werewulf |
ok, another thought...if the stock rear pulley is 61 teeth and the xb is 64 teeth, why coundnt i install an xb rear wheel with the 64 tooth pulley, instead of changing the primary?.. plus, the xb belt is an upgrade item also...not to mention that the xb rear brake actualle does something, but it could get you into trouble too... |
