| Author | Message | ||
     Elpanameno |
O.K. So I've learned some great things on this forum. One of which is that you don't always have to buy the harley tool to get the job done right. With that in mind, I would like to adjust my back tire and tension on the belt. The manual calls for a belt tension gauge and some other tool they don't name for the alignment. Any suggestions on how to do this without spending too much bling? | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Buellistic has prepared a great explanation of the correct way to set a Buell belt - and it is not the way the manual says. A "must read" Might be in the KV of in another thread. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'd help... but I haven't touched those adjusters in 7 years. | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
I think running the belt "scary loose" is the normal advice. As for setting the rear tire alignment, just use a set of dial calipers. I've always done it that way and have yet to have any issues when doing the "look Ma! no hands" thing. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I don't run mine 'scary' loose, I run it 'just a little frightened" loose. Seriously, it should be run pretty loose. I'm sure I'm running mine looser than the manual stipulates, but don't have one of those fancy belt gauges to confirm that. Too loose is gonna be way better than too tight. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Loose is good. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I used a caliper to make sure both sides were even with each other. Make the belt loose enough so you can easily touch the belt to the swingarm. after you tighten up the axle, apply a bit of a tweak on the adjuster screws so that they don't rattle. (the swingarm isn't threaded) Remember not to tweak the adjusters so much that it actually would move the axle though  | ||
| Chasespeed |
LOOSE... scary loose is how mine is run, and has been since 900 miles, in April 05.. As far as loose, put you weight on the bike, to compress the rear.. .and make sure the belt can still touch the top of the swing arm. And, as Nate said, just use a caliper for the alignment... Good luck Chase | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: If you want the correct way(not the "WRONG" FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL way), e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and "i" will e-mail you "INFO" Plus !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Silas_clone |
10,000 miles "scary loose" using LaFayette's system. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
+1 I use LaFayette's system too! It is definitely worth the effort to get it right and LaFayette's system will get it right every time. | ||
| Chasespeed |
10,000 miles "scary loose" using LaFayette's system. 55,000+ Scary loose, though, I haven't read Mr LaFayette's method.. And mine has seen some serious abuse.. | ||
| Rellim51 |
NOT trying to start an argument here but why is the factory service manual wrong? Why Does Mr. LaFayette think his way is better? Is it just his opinion that his way is better or has there been testing to show his way is better? Other than just saying "I rode it 10,000 miles this way and had no problems so it must be better"? Once Buell Realized they put the wrong info in the service manual, did they send out a TSB to correct it or do they still stand behind their method? What are the negative effects of using the Buell method? | ||
| Chasespeed |
Basically put... Following the factory service manual, is too tight. It will be okay during most conditions, but, a hard hit while heavily laden, will snap the belt. As the rear wheel moves up through compression, the belt gets tighter.... As far as I remember, Mr LaFayette is also a HD/Buell tech. But, these things have been determined for a while. Look at it this way? Does is really matter that the "right way" is different from teh factory? Those who are running the scary loose, are getting more mileage outta the belts, than those who have HORROR stories about setting the belt to the factory tension, only to have it snap... again, again... then, they convert to chain drive... Not trying to come off like an a**... Just saying, I am sure if you check in the knowledge vault, you will find LOTS of info on this topic..as its a sore spot for some.. Chase | ||
| Buellistic |
This is what BADWEATHERBIKERS is for when the HARLEY-Davidson MOTOR COMPANY can not get it right !!! The "DRIVE BELT"(TUBE FRAMES[also SPORTSTERS] and "PRIMARY CHAIN"(even the BLAST) is WRONG if you want it to them to last the maximum miles ... Checking the engine oil on the TUBE FRAMES is also WRONG and it is again showing up on the 1125R's ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Rellim51 |
So, you're saying a MAJOR motorcycle manufacturer that makes thousands of bikes a year doesn't know how to check the oil in the bikes they manufacture? | ||
| Bikerjim99 |
I think what we are saying here is that over many years and miles of experience, we have found that running the belt looser than the manual says is beneficial. We haved proved it to the satisfaction of most, and I am unaware of anyone having a problem with a loose belt. Search the archives for the problems of a tight belt. You really can't argue with success. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
That's what the man said and he speaks with great wisdom. Go ahead a run your X1 belt using the "factory" spec's, we'll be here to advise you when you have to replace your 5th gear bearings and wheel bearings. Go ahead and adjust your belt using the service manual. Then lift the rear wheel off the ground via a center lift. With the rear wheel in the air remove the rear bolt on your shock. The swing arm should be able to move up and down. Move the swing arm up toward max travel. Notice how tight the belt is when the swingarm pivot, the rear axel and the front pulley are in the same plane. ALL of that pressure is now on you bearings. Trust me, they don't like it. | ||
| Rellim51 |
So the factory method is not necessarily wrong, it just may not be ideal? I'll buy that, It just irks me when someone says " Buell doesn't know what the heck they are doing, My way is the only right way to do it" I tend to think that if they didn't know what they were doing, they wouldn't still be in business. Now that doesn't mean they can't and won't make mistakes or leave room for improvement. | ||
| Chasespeed |
Thats where the constant tension system on the XBs came from.. I learned this from a tech buddy that worked a buell dealership.. And no, no one is saying they dont know what they are doing, but, the factory guys make mistakes.. .happens.... Chase | ||
| Bad_karma |
Shawn When you finally determine how much slack you want in your belt, get a cheap plastic caliper and measure the gap in the swing arm from the square axial slider and the swing arm housing. Mine, I run at about 33mm. Adjust both sides the same, write it down and next time you change tyres it's just a matter of resetting back to this gap. Joe | ||
| Buellistic |
The BLAST/XB DRIVE BELT set-up is HARLEY-DAVIDSON DEALER technician "PROOF" !!! THAT IS WHY BMC WENT TO THIS DRIVE BELT SET-UP RE-GUARDLESS WHAT THEY(BMC) SAYS !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Chasespeed |
Thats where the constant tension system on the XBs came from.. I learned this from a tech buddy that worked a buell dealership.. IN my defense, those 2 comments should be more clear.. I learned about Scary Loose from a Tech Chase | ||
| Silas_clone |
I went to HD a while back and both tech's were very concerned that my belt was so "scary loose". But I think that LaFayette happens to be correct, so I left it that way. What little I know about bearings tells me that my bike is better running "scary" than "spec"' and since it's my bike, not the factory's, those tech's had no hard feelings. I weigh a lot so the belt is pretty tense most of the time. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Once you have your rear axle adjusted, you don't need to adjust the sliders again. Also, the idler pulley on the XB models is there to enhance the handling of the bike too. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO it would be better if it had a strong spring for idler tension ... In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on February 18, 2008) (Message edited by buellistic on February 18, 2008) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"As the rear wheel moves up through compression, the belt gets tighter...." That's true, but only to a certain point. As the rear axle goes through it's range of motion, it will get tighter up to the point where the axle, swingarm pivot, and output shaft line up; this is the maximum point of tension. If the axle moves any higher or lower than this point, the belt will become looser. | ||
| Buellistic |
Djkaplan: Try explaining that to a HARLEY-DAIVSON technician ??? "i" tried and the SERVICE MANAGER and technician agreed they were obligated to do it the way the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL stated, no matter what the result did to the customers BUELL ??? This happened at a "BRAG" ADVENTURE !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Chasespeed |
That's true, but only to a certain point. As the rear axle goes through it's range of motion, it will get tighter up to the point where the axle, swingarm pivot, and output shaft line up; this is the maximum point of tension. If the axle moves any higher or lower than this point, the belt will become looser. Yes, that is true. To a point. Just doing a rough line up of the pivot points(about 45 seconds ago), it would take 6+ inches of up-travel to "break the plane". So, basically, while the wheel is still moving up, the belt is still getting tighter.. I can later get the acurate measurements, if someone wants.. Chase | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Chase, You are right about that. I may have an explanation for the HD Tech's misunderstanding of our situation. Many HD swingarms are at or near horizontal (in line with sprockets)without a load. Some of the lower models are already past horizontal. On such bikes, any compression of the suspension could actually loosen the belt during use, just the opposite of our Buells. That might explain the HD Tech mentality described by LaFayette. |
