| Author | Message | ||
     Nukeblue |
just changed my blown intake seals on x1. now they leak worse!! whats the trick? had them lubed with vasolene. tightened them down even. any tricks would be great.. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I don't know if there's a trick or not. I've change them on both my bikes w/o incident. But you are right...they're a pain in the arse!!! | ||
| Jayvee |
Vaseline? Seems like that could be keeping the intakes from getting good seal. I would suggest the obvious, take them out and put them back in again. But clean them off, mabye wipe them good with Armor-All, but wipe it all off too. I had trouble getting them to go in centered on each flange thingy. This is a job for tiny little elf hands, that's what I remember. Go slow, double-check the positioning of the rubber when you start to tighten it. I had bought that special bent allen wrench to do this with, but wound up not finding it very useful to me. I tried every other allen driver I had as well, mostly a T-handle with long extender for the front, and a cutoff allen wrench for the back, it took a lot of changing back and forth. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I dip a finger and a thumb in engine oil, and spin the seal through the oiled fingers before installing. Flange onto intake, slide it up a good bit, rubber onto intake, slide it up a good way too. Scrape the intake surface of the heads CLEAN, then scrub with a rag that has carb cleaner on it. Same with the intake and the flanges. You ideally should see nothing but the original machining marks. Put the screws in where the intake has slots; slide the intake into place. Put the screws into the holes and finger tighten one hole-screw, then the other, then the slot screw on the same head as your first hole-screw, then the last slot screw. Repeat that order to torque. At least that's always worked for me... Also as mentioned in another thread, on the EFI bikes, check and/or replace all four injector O-rings too. | ||
| Olbolt |
INJECTOR O-RINGS - What are the o-ring numbers, and the material? It seemed that neither of mine was dead-on for a inch or metric standard - or maybe mine had swollen. They were not id'd / listed in my '99 S3 parts manual - only as part of the injector assembly from H-D / Buell. Or am I getting too precise on my replacement? | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you have a parts house or the dealer will let you, hit an O-ring drawer with an injector and intake in your hand. You should be able to get the O-ring around the injector, it should be snug and not flopping around, and you should get a nice positive "click" when you pop it into the intake. A tight fit requiring some oil or bearing grease is a good thing; a tight fit that squeezes the o-ring out of the gap is bad; a loose fit that doesn't snick into place is bad. The o-ring should practically hold the injector in the intake for you. Same deal at the other end. Use something rated for fuel. Most injector o-rings I've used in the past have been color coded (albeit for cars, not bikes). I'd wager a guess the same is true for bikes. Also, if you have a good parts person, ask them to plug the injector part number into H-Dnet for a kit inquiry. If the injector is classified as a "kit", the inquiry will show a breakdown of the part numbers involved (i.e. injector and 2 o-rings). | ||
| Jos51700 |
As far as the intake seals, install them dry. I usually put the flanges on (There's a front and a rear), and slide the seals up on to the intake spigots. Obviously, this includes fitting the cone side of the seal into the respective concave side of each flange. Lining up the seal isn't really important, they don't really sit square once everything is tightened up. Place the intake manifold assembly in the approximate position and spin a flange around till the upper bolt lines up. After installing that bolt loosely, then I just pivot the assembly around the upper bolt until the lower bolt hole lines up. Then I spin the other flange until it's holes line up. I usually tighten one top bolt one turn, the other top bolt one turn, one bottom one turn, the other bottom one turn, repeat until tightened to spec (I actually go until they're damn tight, but I won't actually recommend it) I really don't know how vaseline would MAKE them leak, because they are supposed to move around, but I know they are to be installed dry, no sealer, no lube, no glue, no spooge of any kind. The ONLY reason I can think that Vaseline might make them leak, would be that it somehow allows excess movement of the seals or something. Honestly, I really can't see that, but all I know is I do 'em dry and mine don't leak. (Now that I say that, they'll start leaking.) Now, the ONE intake seal I DO lube is the carb-to-manifold seal. I have seen, and performed, the installation of the carb/throttle body (X1/S3) dry and cut the seal where the carb spigot slides into the seal. The manifold edge is thin, and therefore inherently not dull. I usually twist the carb after installing, and (I know this doesn't help if you don't do three a week) if it feels funny (tight or not spinning freely), I pull it back off and replace the seal I just cut. I don't tighten the manifold-to-head bolts unless either the carb is installed and the intake backing plate is installed, to insure proper intake manifold alignment (the backing plate lines up with the breather holes), or (preferred), I use an inclinometer on the carb-side manifold spigot, and then the timing cover, to make sure that the intake is square with the motor. XB's require installing the coil bracket before tightening the intake to insure proper alignment. There's a screw on the throttle body that secures it to the coil bracket. | ||
| Oldog |
I would use OE orings ER We dont know what they are made of, and a mistake can have drastic concequences [BLOWN ENGINE DUE TO AIR LEAK]. plumbing orings are usualy neopreme or may be nitrile, also the size is critical I would replace all 4 orings on the fuel feed assy, the maniflod end orings are PN P0029.02a8 10.08$ the rail orings PN P0028.02a8 4.85$ I suspect that they may be viton or epdm as they must be fuel resistant. I also agree that the head joint rings go in dry and all parts are clean as possible I too final tighten after the brace at the breather is in place. The bolts are a pita, but ignoring this has dire concequences.. FMJ once advised me change them about every 2 years, It's sound advice at 3 the can { DID } start leaking I got lucky... | ||
| Jos51700 |
Buying 2 junk allen wrench's (most HD techs have a can of them, because they're included with the accessory kits. Brownnosing works well here) and bending them, one forward (halfway down the long end, inline with the short end), one backward (the same as before, just bend towards the side opposite the short end), and then shortening the short end (about 5/8" overall length), makes this job 10 bazillion times easier. (like this, if it posts right...I had to use dots because it lost all my spaces, but the lines are about right) _______ | | | | | .\ ...\ .....\ .......\ .........\ ________ ...................| ...................| ...................| ...................| ...................| ...................\ .....................\ .......................\ .........................\ ...........................\ The bends (about 30 degrees each), will allow you reach each bolt one way or another without shredding your knuckles on the fins (way worse on twincams, but still). I'll even get a small deepwell socket on an extension, and slide it up my bent allen wrenches to get more leverage for the monster-tightening I don't recommend. | ||
| Olbolt |
Injector O-Rings - Thanks Oldog for the part #'s. My dealer had them in stock - It's all how you present the question. I also penciled the pt. # into my parts book for next time. | ||
| Rick_a |
I like temporarily putting the carb and backing plate on to line the manifold up before tightening the intake manifold bolts fully. It's the only way I've found to get a really smooth transition and repeatable install (I've hand matched the manifold to the ports). I don't use lube on the intake seals, either. If it's a tight fit I may use some dish soap/water to lube the carb spigot gasket. | ||
| Nukeblue |
well after changing the intake seals two more times....i finally figured it out! i can be slow sometimes.the leak was at the rear injector o-ring at the manifold. so i ran down to the parts store & tried to match one up (they couldnt cross the numbers on the injector)well that worked for about five minutes then leaking worse. so looks like i'm running to the dealer with those part numbers. thanks all! | ||
| Oldog |
the leak was at the rear injector o-ring at the manifold that is where mine was leaking too. had it been the other way around .... the motor would have suffered for it. } |
