| Author | Message | ||
     Oldog |
The tube frame guys are lucky here, the Old tube frame headlights lend them selves to HID, HID [ High Intensity Discharge ] uses an electric arc passing through a GAS ( Like Xenon ) The system is comprised of the lamp, a balast / ignitor and in my case a position control relay, The lamp and a shutter move in a tube. The bulb in my case moves with a shutter in and out to give "High and Low" beam patterns.  The wiring is quite simple the major Job is where to put the balast which is 3" x 3" x 1".  Yes it fits behind the fly screen sort of.  the power / control harness runs from under the seat to the front with the main harness, behind the stearing head I moved right and passed that wiring up on the right side I have pressure and temp gage wiring added to the left side wiring.)  (Message edited by oldog on February 24, 2008) (Message edited by oldog on February 24, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
The kit includes a thin steel bracket with rubber mounts of a sort. I beefed up the mount and bolted it to the head lignt shell. I have the shell sandwiched in rubber.  The original wiring is removed and the hole opened up to accept an 11/16" gromet. The wires with connector are passed through the hole then the groumet is fitted.  I added 2 tywraps to the mount to hold the balast in the bracket. I lit this thing before mounting the light output is tremendous! at 30 yards it lights up the front of a house like day light!  a couple of concerns/ final thoughts, the balast may have been mountable over the front rocker box, IF YOU RAPIDLY FLICK HI LO, HI LO SEVERAL TIMES THE LAMP MAY GO OUT [ I BELIEVE THAT THE BALAST LIGHT UP SIGNAL IS DISRUPTED FOR JUST A MOMENT, AND IT DOES NOT RE LIGHT ( HANDLE BAR SWITCH PROBLEM )]}} NORMAL SWITCHING DOES NOT SEEM TO EXTINGUISH THE LIGHT, Turning the bike off and back on will cause a re light, I may place a button on the bar as an emergency re start. There is a different kit with an H3 High beam which may be a better answer, ymmv Nite pix soon. (Message edited by oldog on February 24, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
Where I got the Kit My kit http://www.xenonlink.com/product_info.php?products _id=92 An alternative http://www.xenonlink.com/product_info.php?products _id=117 | ||
| Rellim51 |
So, you still have a high and low function? On some of the other conversions I have seen, it's either high OR low. You cannot change it like a regular bulb. | ||
| Oldog |
Yes High and low, the lamp and a shield move in and out of the "back end" of the lamp holder, to cover and uncover the lamp to part of the reflector, with the bike off but the lamp lit a clunk is heard as the lamp shifts back for high position, or forward to low position the lamp normaly stays lit | ||
| Rellim51 |
Thanks, I should have read the link you posted before I asked. It explains everything. Which color did you order? | ||
| Oldog |
6000K, color temp, similar to a bluish fluorescent lamp the blue and violet colors 8k 12k on a bike would tend to attract the wrong attention. I figure LEO will not likely bother me if the light is properly aimed. | ||
| Easy_rider |
Now that I've got a car with HID, I really want this on my S3T. The difference is incredible. Thanks for the example. | ||
| Oldog |
Hey EZ_r I would like to see it if you do that project. | ||
| Jos51700 |
No before and after of the light pattern? Scientific method, man! | ||
| Oldog |
pattern is the same the intensity is up about 2 or 3 times original I have not ridden it yet still waiting on parts. | ||
| Easy_rider |
Looking at your links, the kits have come down quite a bit since I first looked. It may not be until May until I get a chance to install one, but at $100 it's worth it. For Jos I'll try to remember to do a before and after! | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Arg, you beat me too it! I was hoping to be the first tuber HID install on Badweb (at least in recent years) My problem is I keep delaying, trying to find a deal with a digital ballast. We'll see. I keep telling myself not to spend the money, I need to save up for my Europe shenanigans this summer. Do you believe the word shenanigans is actually in the spell checker? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I'd like to see a picture against a wall of the low beam versus the high beam. Would that be possible? I know the bulb moves, but I want to see how much of a difference it actually makes. Also, I spoke with someone from that website about the two different options you posted above, they said that the HID/Halogen light (your alternative link) would require customization to make it work in a factory housing. | ||
| Langperf |
Nice article , good job | ||
| Oldog |
Digital Balast ?? the balast has the inverter / ignitor built in, is that what you mean? the pattern will be about the same as your M2 with an H4, an area in the shroud in uncovered you would see a rectangle of light appear above the low beam pattern and a small change in shape and size, its the light output and color that are amazing When I get the bike back together I will be testing here in town I had a buddy with an M2 I wish he still had it, I would love to do a comparo with photos. I will pattern it on a grage door at say 25 feet asap thanks for the comments, | ||
| Mikef5000 |
A digital balast uses, uhh, digitalness instead of magnets like a standard balast. They are much smaller, run cooler, have more consistant output, and are a bit brighter. Problem is they're more expensive, and less common. If you find a wall (as dark as possible), and measure out 25 feet, and take a picture of low and high beam from the seat view, I'll do the same with my bike. We could post up our results as an E-comparison! Let me know when the bikes back together! | ||
| Oldog |
Mike I think that all of the modern balasts are electronic, magnetic / capacitor balasts wont re strike untill the lamp is cooled off, and they are set up for AC input vs DC input I hear a whine as it operates the specs indicate that the lamp operates at about 450hz th balast is 3"x3"x1" I would love to have had a smaller one, the only other set up I have seen has seprate ignighters and balasts the Ignitor boxes were smaller but there was a balast attached too and there was more wireing. Will do on the 25' and garage door | ||
| Dfbutler |
Here is a third party discussion http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/hid-light/motor cycle-hid-light-conversion/ | ||
| Oldog |
DF I hope that is not my case here time will tell, I caught the comments about rapid on off, the balast setup on my bike appears to read the input to the lamp socket and strike the lamp when "on" I switch the key off and there is a minute but perceptable lag to lamp off. thanks for posting that link an interesting read. | ||
| Oldog |
Its up and running @$#TR#!% finaly! heres the "scientifical pitchurz" low beam ~ 25' from door  High beam ~ 25' from door  The street Dark astride bike  The street low beam  note the fence in the back ground. the street high beam  IMPORTANT INFORMATION !!!! While I am quite pleased with the light output there have been afew hicups - issues, If you are going to make this mod I strongly suggest that you get a setup with an incandescent high beam or install an auxiliary head light, This HID system will alert you to low battery, The light will go out! no flickers no dimming it just goes out, You will first see it on engine start, the lamp starts before the engine is running, the voltage drop to about 8 volts causes it to go out and IT WILL NOT RE LIGHT UNLESS THE BIKE IS TRUNED OFF FOR ABOUT 3 TO 5 SECONDS I altered the wiring and put a swithch on the positive lead of the balast so it can be switched off for a tick [ emergency restart ] Current draw measures about 4 amps at 12.6v I have some further notes to post later.. (Message edited by oldog on March 02, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
Issues: 1. You can't alter the thick black cable coming from the balast, and the connectors while nicely made are a little bulky, the wiring on a bike gets busy in the trees and at the s-neck a short whip 6" on the balast with extenders of various lenghts would allow you to place the balast in a convient location, in my case under the seat, and run a harness forward on the left would have been ideal. I had to juggle the wiring connectors to solve an interfierece that prevented the steering head from turning full to the right. 2. As I stated earlier the system is sensative to voltage drops, if you are returning home at night and you loose the charging system and fail to catch it you will loose your head light with out warning 3. The literature indicates that the electrical demand is 35 watts, I placed My fluke 87 in line on the ground side of the system for current, and across the battery terminals for voltages, I suspected that the battery was getting weak. Voltages: system off : 12.6 ( battery weak ) aux only : 12.2 dropping main w/o light : 12.0 dropping faster main w/ fuel pump : 11.9 drop running at idle : 12.9 voltage rising to 13.1 at shutdown the lamp will go out as system voltage when the starter engages is about 8.01 volts. Currents: system off : 4 mA This may be the balast I need to find out.. aux only : 1.7 main w/o light : 5.7 main w/ fuel pump : 10.2 A HID Watts = Amps * Volts = 4 * 12 = 48 IF it is 35@ 13.5 then the current should be. Amps = Watts / Volts = 2.5 Your H4 lamp @ 55/60 @ 13.5 v 55W = 4.05 A 60W = 4.44 A As I indicated above I put a switch in the + feed to the balast to shut it off for a cold start, and restart if it is drawing 4 mA constantly it may be wise to shut it off to preserve the charge on the battery. After charging the battery the lamp would flicker when starting but not go out. the balast mount will have to be further modified as it shakes like hell at just above idle [ Ya Think? ] |
