| Author | Message | ||
     Elpanameno |
On another post I had earlier, someone had recommended to break in a bike hard. Run the hell out of it for the first 20 miles or so. This is contrary to what I have always been told and done. I figured I would start a post so I could get some opinions from more than just one person on this. If this is true, I have broken in my m2 after a top end the traditional way already for about 200 miles. What should I do now? | ||
| Jos51700 |
You do realize there is no "correct" answer to this. One million opinions, and about as many variables that actually do affect break-in procedure. | ||
| Elpanameno |
I understand its like asking people how to make the perfect homemade spaghetti sauce. I am not looking for someone to tell me that this is the only way to do it because I make a damn good spaghetti sauce and haven't ever had trouble with the way I break in a bike. But.. I just might be missing out on something and maybe my bike could perform better if i did things differently. I have the service manual.. I know what that says. I'm just looking for what other's experiences and opinions may be. Thats what these forums are for right? | ||
| Djkaplan |
There is huge difference between breaking in an entirely new vehicle in and breaking in an old bike with a top end job. Don't get the two processes mixed up. If it's just a new set of rings and cross hatch job, go to town. You want the rings to wear in and 'hone' themselves against the resurfaced cylinder wall. If it's a new bore job and piston/rings... that throws some curves in. It's best to let things wear themselves in more gradually than an all out assault to redline the first time... but you still need to seat the rings properly. This is where most of the break in processes start to differ, but I've always felt a gradual start is better with a few runs up the rev range and short heat cycle times. If the bike is new, without fail follow the manufacturers recommendation for a proper break in. You are doing more than just getting the rings and piston worked in, you are getting the whole bike to work itself in (gears, chains, et al.). There are just too many old wives telling tales out there... | ||
| Jos51700 |
It also depends on the type/brand of pistons, rings, etc, the intended use (Racing, touring, burning oil), how long you want your motor to last, etc. Many variables..... | ||
| Oldog |
Contact some of our sponsors, Pammy comes to mind for a quick answer. | ||
| Skntpig |
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I have done this with every new motor. Change the oil frequently when new and make sure it's fully warm before getting on it. No lugging and don't try to kill it but don't be afraid of full throttle and running through the gears. | ||
| Aesquire |
I broke my new Cyclone in pretty much by the book. The mototune guy has some good points, but really rational thought with the above advice tells you Skntpig has it about nailed. Vary the rpm's, try not to freeway drone, keeping away from redline or the jackhammer lugging a cold Buell with it's light flywheel don't like. Use up to full throttle inputs, ( AFTER WARM UP ) use engine braking, ( being rational with the rpm's ) to to vary the pressures & seat the rings nicely, see mototune. The factory break in process simply includes the rider as well, by setting speeds. It's not a bad idea for someone with a new bike to get used to the switchology & handling before playing Rossi. Since you are doing a top end break in, I'd say change the oil, Now. Time already for Synthetic ( here comes the storm ) and do it again say, 600 miles after the top end, then back to normal. I'd at least suck this fresh batch of metal shavings out. I'd say drive it like you stole it now. You know, cautiously, to avoid Imperial Entanglements. |
