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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through March 02, 2008 » Kickstand, neutral switch, clutch switch OR .......? « Previous Next »

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Freeflyer
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey I thought id try to get this bug out before the season starts, My 2002 M2 will not idle or start when in neutral with the clutch out and kickstand down, with the clutch in or the kickstand up it will. I dont have a manual so Im not sure if there could be a diode also. 1 other thing the N light does come on when in neutral, is that an indicator of the switch being fine or not? Anyone know?
Thanks
Dan
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Sleez
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

most likely the kickstand switch, easy to test, jump the harness and try it. i did have my clutch switch come slightly unplugged enough to cause an intermittent issue, easy enough to check both.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you get the green N, the neutral switch is working.

+1 what was said above, unplug the sidestand switch and put a paperclip across the terminals on the plug (bike side) to test that one. I don't recall if the clutch switch is open or closed for run, but you could try the same thing there too. If I recall the wiring diagram, the wire runs from power, thru one switch, to the next switch, and to ignition. If either switch opens (breaks the circuit) the bike cuts out.

I'd suspect it's the sidestand switch though.
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Blackm2
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like the kickstand switch to me. I have a similar problem which I have not fixed yet. Mine will not start while in gear with the clutch in. Has to be in neutral, so I have to make sure not to stall it at the lights. I've replaced the clutch switch, ignition relay, checked diodes, only thing left is neutral switch.
Yours sounds like the stand switch, that should only kill it when you are in gear and have the stand down.
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Freeflyer
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, What I dont understand though is if it was the side stand switch then why would it kill when down but run fine when up. Doesnt that mean it is funtioning?
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Iamike
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the M2 use diodes to isolate the clutch and side-stand switches? If it does that would explain why the bike won't run with the clutch out if a diode is blown.
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Fasted
Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

unplug the clutch switch. easy to try, easy to reconnect. but you should try the kickstand switch bridge if that doesn't work. strange as it may seem, don't overlook the very-highly-improbable-but-still-possible chance that they are both bad. it takes less time to track down a problem if you take NOTHING for granted.
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Psykick_machanik
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 01:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just remember "Easiest First!!!"
Save the sky is falling feeling for when the early troubleshooting doesnt work.
My Psykick senses are telling me it is the kickstand switch, since it is constantly cycled and lives down in the dirt mud and water.(and its the easiest to check and fix)
Dont forget to try cleaning the connector and switch before buying a new one. electro/contact cleaner works great and will also displace moisture.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After you clean with contact cleaner, give it a good splurt of dielectric grease (you can get it at Radio Shack or other electronics places; not sure if places like Home Depot have it or not). Great insulator against debris, water, and other environmentals.

I need a new can, now that I think about it. Getting ready to put an engine back in a car and want to hit all the EFI connectors while I can reach 'em....
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Werewulf
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i just cut off the switch and soldered the two wires together... many bikes dont have them anyway. harleys dont! my 07 roadking was the first harley ive owned, with a switch on the clutch..
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Skntpig
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just don't be too liberal with that dielectric grease. Too much and you can short a few wires in the same connector. Good stuff but you don't need a ton of it.
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Psykick_machanik
Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

dielectric grease is nonconductive so it will not short out wires. using to much will make a big globbie mess that will pick up dirt and junk. We use this stuff all over our helicopter wireing with no problems.
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