| Author | Message | ||
     Onahog |
FYI... Someone Listed today.. 1- Set of S2 bars 1-set of S2T bars Hb | ||
| Rex |
are these the bars that break? these look solid, and round all the way down. ? I thought the ones that were cut somewhat and welded to the bracket were the new ones? REX | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Rex, it's the other way around. The dimpled ones are the good ones. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The touring bars are also above what you'd pay if you ordered them thru your dealer now. I looked, they came to right around $124/set. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I think it was only the tall bars that had the breakage problem. | ||
| Court |
There were TWO versions of the taller bars. There are photos of the RIGHT and WRONG conditions in the archives. I had a set fail and it's not very dramatic. I was in Turn 3 at Heartland Park Topeka and the bar "telegraphed" (got mushy and wobbly and started bending) before it broke. I was passing a fellow Bueller on an S-2 and took the opportunity, feeling the bar going, to snap it cleanly and pass him holding it in my hand. The difference is at the weld where the vertical portion of the bar is connected to the collar. | ||
| Sportyeric |
That would have been the left one that snapped off then. (Had to put my thinkin' hat on.) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Did anything on the bike have to be changed to go from standard to tall bars? Brake line? Wiring? It looks like there's enough length in the clutch and throttle cables, but the front brake line and the electrics make me nervous... | ||
| Court |
Good question . . . I don't **think** so but that's based solely on 13 year old recollection. I think the instructions for the tall bar kit are in the knowledge vault. If you can not find the info, let me know. I know who does know. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ah...instructions. That's that piece of paper with all the pictures on it that I always throw out before installing accessories! ;) Bet I can pull a part number for the tall bar kit and look it up on H-Dnet thru a kit breakdown. Good call, thanks  | ||
| Ratbuell |
No changes required according to the instruction sheet. Although they say use new nuts to hold them to the tops of the forks - my bars have nylock nuts on them now. Wonder why they'd say to replace them, unless my bars have already been changed...anyone know the measurement from the base of the bar (triple tree) to the top of the bar curve for the different bars? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
No changes are needed for the T bars. I put a set on both my son's S2 and mine. Brad | ||
| S2pengy |
Do need to cut some tye wraps and check throttle cable and clutch cable adjustment.. Brake light switch will most likely cause the brake light to be on all the time, so check it afterward... | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you don't pull the brake lever off its perch, why would the switch act up? That's the only time I've ever had one fight back...and a cardboard sliver takes care of that ;) | ||
| S2pengy |
The brake lever assembly doesn't have the switch in it, the switch is in the throttle/switch assembly with the start and run switches..... So the 2 assemblies have to be keyed/rotated together correctly for the light switch to be compressed and the brake light to go out.... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ah, that's right. Been so long since I had one apart I'd forgotten...either that or I just drowned the brain cell that particular tidbit was stored on, lol. |
