| Author | Message | ||
     Dfbutler |
I've seen a lot of things discussed here, but I don't think I've seen any recommendations as to how often to replace the plugs. Comments? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I do mine every 10k service. I also keep a spare pair in the saddlebag for that rare occasion when I hamfist the choke (or the bike gets pissed at something and doesn't want to start) and foul one out. | ||
| Jos51700 |
10K here too as well. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Me = lazy I usually wait until it becomes a little bit harder to start in the morning. Not a regular mileage but usually about 15,000 or so. It usually runs ok once warm but the starting hard is the hint. The plugs always come out looking pretty much OK except for the electrodes being a bit rounded. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Newbie Question - Is it normal for the front cylinder plug to run cooler (Blacker) than the front? Even after a short ride, my front plug always looks "sootier" than the rear plug. Anyone run a hotter plug in the front? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep, normal. Airflow hits the front cylinder more than the rear (since the front is in the way). | ||
| Buellistic |
Here is one for thought on TUBE FRAMES !!! On Fuel Injection engine the 02 senor is in the rear header ??? If you put the FAN KIT on, the TEMPERATURE SENSOR is on the Front Head ??? In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Ratbuell |
I believe the fan kit has its own temp sensor, located somewhere around the intake tract? At least, the bagger HD kits do.... I'd be surprised if the Buell kit tapped into an ECM circuit just to turn on a fan, but I've been wrong before ;) For EFI, the rear cyl will run leaner at any given time, meaning more "risk". So they O2 that cylinder. And I'm sure someone at the factory figured out "if front head is X degrees, rear cylinder will be X plus Y degrees; the ECM needs to adjust when temp reads X because that puts X plus Y on the rear in a danger zone". | ||
| Rocketman |
Frequently change my plugs. Always NGK DPREA9. They're cheap, take minutes to change, and are well known for failure, unless NGK, which offer greater reliability. Why risk riding on one cylinder by trying to extract long life and high mileage out of something which costs peanuts? Rocket | ||
| Brokeneck |
In the winter I change frequently -- FI does not support a bike that is still 20 degrees even though the temperature may be reaching 50 outside. I usually change them before a few day long roadtrip, along with the oil and checking for loose bolts. I also keep a spare set in my tank bag -- just in case. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I agree. For six bucks or whatever they are, and the ease of replacement (not like trying to replace plugs on an LT1 engine - ugh!), it's silly not to have spares and change them before you "have" to. The only problem I'm having now is finding plug wires (specifically for the rear head) that have the 30 degree boot. All I can find are straight boots, and they rub on my petcock (that sounded bad) a bit too much for my tastes. Bike is a 95 S2. Anyone use good aftermarket wires? The OEM wires cost as much for one wire as for a set of Screamin' Eagle wires, but the S/E's are the straight boot ones. I think even the OEMs have superseded now to a straight boot. Grrr. | ||
| Rocketman |
Accel 8.8 mm with right angle suppressor caps. Pack the inside of both ends with grease or Vaseline. Never a misfire in years, and I've ridden in some very heavy rainstorms. Rocket | ||
| Djkaplan |
The only time I ever fouled a plug was when I was depending on my M2 as my only source of transportation (I was replacing the clutch on my truck and waiting for my flywheel to get back from the machine shop). Not only did the plug foul, but my rockerbox gaskets decided to leak the same day. I was less than pleased that day, especially when the only Harley dealer in the area didn't have 10R12s in stock (of course). I've never fouled a plug since, but I bet it'll happen if I depend on it not to. |
