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Jos51700
| | Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 09:05 am: | 
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I seem to remember 1/8" being the average. |
Bookyoh
| | Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2008 - 01:55 am: |
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Check this out. It is a summary of things that I found helpful in replacing the isolators on my M2 back in 2004 using the method described in American Thunderbike.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/207322.html
Mark |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 05:37 pm: |
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The device came today.
Not much to look at for $85
I went for a long ride, the weather is too nice to work on bikes... |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 09:41 pm: |
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John(AKA Silas_clone):
This tool, like the factory tool will break if you do not compress the opposite isolator !!!
In BUELLing
LaFayette |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 10:35 pm: |
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LaFayette, how do you compress the opposite isolator? |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 06:16 pm: |
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Long threaded bolt, large thick flat washer, and nut ...
AND this make it easier to get opposite isolator out ...
In BUELLing
LaFayette
(Message edited by buellistic on February 06, 2008) |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 12:46 am: |
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So, you remove the regular bolt and replace it with a longer one of an identical thread that will act against the frame to compress the isolator on one side while you push the swingarm block with the Kastar tool on the other side? |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 05:25 pm: |
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John:
That is correct ...
You will find the RIGHT Isolator comes out so mush easier and you will not break the
$85 dollar tool ...
In BUELLing
LaFayette |
Tom_s
| | Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 12:47 am: |
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So, between the Belt wizard and the Kastar tool what is the verdict? Anybody know?
15 minutes to change the belt would be great. Can you do the same with the Kastar tool?
Everything I have read, it sounds like hours of work to change the belt or the rear isolators. Something I have not been looking forward to, but I know it's coming. But I haven't done it yet, or even seen a removed rear isolator in person. I'm a pretty experienced mech, maybe it's not as bad as it sounds.
I assume that both tools would also be useful in changing the rear isolators. I want the best one.
You guys that got the Belt wizard, what did it cost, and any problems getting them from that German site?
Says it's 73,00 Euros. ? I am guessing that is 73.00 Euros, about $106.
Hmm, I see Xldevil is in Germany. Jos51700, did you get one? Sounds like no, as I see you are wanting DfButler's Kastar tool.
Me too : )
Thanks for any more info. |
Dfbutler
| | Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 11:42 am: |
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Tool is sold |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 06:58 pm: |
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What is the thread size on those bolts?
I think a stud and a wing nut instead of cranking that isolator over with a bolt |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 03:58 pm: |
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Looks like they are 5/8 x 18
I bought a length of threaded rod to make a long stud. Gonna thread a nut on it so I crank on the rod rather than the swing arm bolt thingee
What size is that giant torx head? |
Olbolt
| | Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 10:27 pm: |
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I just finished an isolator installation on my S3 this weekend. You are correct with the threaded rod going all the way in, and keeping it stationary, and turning the nut on the rod. - remember the block in the swing arm assy. that you are going into is aluminum. I used 2 rods, one on each side - both 5" long. Put something like a hard gasket or medium hard plastic between the washer on the threaded rod and the frame on the side you are compressing. Then add several thick washers 3/16 - 1/4" total - then the nut which is doing the compressing. Oil the rod and nut. I kept track of the turns on the nut. I also put the second threaded rod on the other side to keep things in line till it came time to take the uncompressed isolator out.
You have to support both 1) the frame, 2) the engine. They become semi-independent from each other during the change-out.
I used ~ a 18 inch long wrench to tighten the nut compressing the isolator, and it took a little more force to rotate the last few flats than I was comfortable with.
First the belt side isolator could rotate, then it was a able to be slid out of position, but it wouldn't come completely free, at that point I removed the threaded rod on the belt side. Then I slid a bar between the frame near the foot peg and the swing arm to spread the opening a little and the isolator came out. At that point I reinstalled the threaded rod on the belt side to tie the bike together again.
Next to loosen the nut on the threaded rod on the primary side, and remove the washers and nut, leaving the rod to maintain alignment.
Now put the washers and nut on the threaded rod on the belt side to give some room to remove the isolator on the primary side. This one needs no compressing, and comes out easy, once the threaded rod is removed. Now install the new isolator on the primary side. (as part of another project, I did have my primary cover off at the time, which may have helped with clearance.)
Because of previous warnings in this column on getting the bolt in crossways, I paid special attention. well deserved.
To get the new belt side isolator in, you have to compress the new primary side isolator the same way you on the old one.
I spent much more time planning the change than doing it. I took it for a ride this past Sat. and I believe I could detect a positive difference in smoothness. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 08:55 am: |
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A couple of pictures to go along with all these words would do wonders for the understanding. |
Olbolt
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 07:15 pm: |
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Good suggestion - but I did the job by myself and had my hands full at the time - and now it is together. I wrote to confirm to Silas he was on the right track using a stud threaded all the way into the 'bearing adjustment bolt' (Service manual pg 2-40) and using a steel 5/8 nut on the stud to compress the isolator, rather than a bolt threading into its aluminum threads.
There were several cautions by others on being careful of cross threading the 5/8-18 isolator bolt - now I understand, as they go into aluminum. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 10:49 pm: |
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But what size TORX bit for those new bolts?
Can't I use regular Grade 8 socket heads? |
Werewulf
| | Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 01:37 am: |
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what do the dealers charge to replace them? sounds like a lot of work.... |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 10:23 am: |
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There manual says that they forklift the frame up with the front isolator still attached...ugh!
I like wrenching, not as much as when I was a youth, but I like it.
Upgrading this little critter is very satisfying |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 02:09 pm: |
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"BUELLschitte", "i" use two car body stands under the foot pegs(tie wrap the foot pegs to stands for safety)!!!
A RATCHET tie down under engine(between engine and OIL LINES) for safety, a small HYD. jack under the rear motor mount, a long bolt/nut/flat washer to compress the LEFT ISOLATOR, and when "i" remove the RIGHT ISOLATOR "i" put a long bole in for SAFETY while moving what ever is necessary to move !!!
In Buelling
LaFayette |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 05:32 pm: |
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LaFayette, what size is torx? |
Oldskoolef
| | Posted on Friday, February 15, 2008 - 08:28 pm: |
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The torx bolts are T60. I bought the socket at Sears in the automotive tools section. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 06:30 pm: |
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Got the torx set at Sears on Sunday. When did KMart buy them out?
Anyway, stripped the bike, removed the rear stabilizer bar [I was afraid to remove the engine end from cast aluminum so I removed the oil tank]
Bought a bottle jack.
I am into this project pretty deep $$$
My questions:
1. What size socket head wrench is needed to remove the old isolator socket bolt?
2. Do I need to remove the top end stabilizer bar to move the engine enuff to get the rear isolators out?
3. Is replacing the front isolator gonna be as tough as it looks? |
Oldskoolef
| | Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 06:57 pm: |
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I believe the old isolator bolt is a 1/2" internal hex.
I had all of my tie rods disconnected from the frame when I replaced my isolators. I found it to be an easy job, no compressing with bolts and washers or big problems. I used the newest type isolators with the angled flanges on the lower edge. They really help with installation. They actually compress the isolators as the frame is pushed down onto the swingarm mounting block. Use caution installing those new torx bolts. They cross thread easily!
As far as replacing the front isolator, I don't know how difficult that will be to replace. I changed that one when the frame was completely off of the engine assembly. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 07:00 pm: |
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The threaded rod "studs" are a winner.
The tool works fine, Lafayette, I compressed the other side just like you said.
Had to remove half of the bike to get at everything.
Now on to the front isolator.
Any tips for that installation?
Do I have to remove that aluminum engine mount bolted to my front head? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 07:51 pm: |
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No, do not remove the bolts form the head.
You should be able to use a 3/4" socket and extension to remove the nut.
Support the motor obviously...
When the bolt is removed you can remove the two bolts holding the front isolator in place.
Make sure you get the "D" washer back in the right way. Keep an eye out when you remove it for orientation. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 08:00 pm: |
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Well, HD sold me the wrong front ISO, so I buttoned it up without the front change out.
New belt too.
I went for a ride around the block. I think it vibrates more now!
The old Iso's looked fine...
Is there a "break-in" period? |
Tombo
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 08:21 pm: |
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Silas clone, there is no break in period, but if you changed from the old style to the new ones you might possibly feel a bit more vibration, but I would double check the front isolator (it might have been damaged in the process) and check the motor mount bolts. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:00 am: |
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It was a buzz in the footpegs.
I am gonna stop "fixin" this bike.
The belt is from Al and is '04 style.
I hope I didn't lose my 65 mph "sweet spot" |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:36 am: |
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The mounts will break-in a little bit. I notice alot more vibration on the new bikes, and they smooth out noticeably by the 1000 miles service, and a little more by 5000 miles. The front isolator will have more affect than the rears, but all will change a little with time.
I'd bet that if you ride 1000 miles, it'll be smoother again.
HD released a firmer front mount for the FLT's and we started getting a lot of complaints from new bike owners. After 1000 miles, no complaints. |
Silas_clone
| | Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:47 pm: |
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Went for a more "spirited" romp. Bike is ok. Granny puttin' around the neighborhood was misleading.
Two things I would try if I were gonna do rear isolators and/or a belt.
1. Buy threaded rod, 5/8" x 18, cut 2 5" lengths. Cut screwdriver slots in one end of each. Use them to compress iso's.
2. Get a length of hardwood dowel, I think 1/2" will pass thru 5/8"x18 threads. Put a rounded taper on it and use it to help align the iso with the swingarm bolt. I think the reason guys cross threads is that the iso gets a bit non-concentric with the swingarm bolt. Using the homemade studs and the wood dowel, I was able to hand tighten threaded stock. No crossed threads.
I was a bit more careful adjusting the new Gates belt. I aligned the sprokets and swingarm pivot ala LaFayette. This time I really made the belt "taunt". When I got the bike down off the jack stands, it was not nearly as "scary loose" as I had been running. Not as much drivetrain slack or belt noise.
One other thing, LaFayette's tip on using cable ties to tie the jack stands to the foot pegs is worth the effort. Not once did I worry about raising or lowering the bike to advantage. |
Sportycraig
| | Posted on Monday, July 12, 2010 - 07:16 pm: |
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seized front isolator bolt.I have a 1999m2 the heads are off to replace gaskets. I cannot get the Isolator bolt undone. Any suggestions. I have ordered the new style Isolator from american sportbike. thanks craig |
I_like_moxie
| | Posted on Saturday, June 06, 2015 - 04:02 am: |
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2002 M2L swing arm re-instalment
Hey guys. I'm new to forum stoked to have found it! And I'm in need of help.
when replacing swing arm into place(for belt replacement) I just snugged it up into place.. one swing arm bolt or isolator bolt goes in great.. the right side of bike on the other hand, is lined up but the bushing or isolator ( the rubber) is preventing the bolt from setting in flush and threading into place... It is off by 1/4 inch with prying and wrestling I can get it to a 16th of an inch.. but that is is still enough to pitch the bolt where as I CANT GET IT TO THREAD!! it is not stripped..
Is there a trick to this or something I'm missing? or does it just become a matter of just being patient and prying and rearranging until it works?
Any advise would be so appreciated. I'm so close to smooth sailing if I can get this in!!! thank you!! Ride on!!! |
Bookyoh
| | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2015 - 11:37 pm: |
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It has been a few years since replacing my isolators. I've done it twice to grease and adjust the swing arm bearings.
As I recall, the new style torx bolts were much harder to align than the old hex head bolts. I used my old hex head bolts, tightened them, then replaced them one at a time with the torx bolts.
The suggestion a few posts above to use a 1/2" hardwood dowel as a prying/aligning tool sounds like a good idea. I will try that next time. |
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