| Author | Message | ||
     Elpanameno |
I just bought a 2001 Buell M2 cyclone. I have been riding dirt bikes most of my life but never owned a street bike and know very little mechanically about bikes. I noticed that when i hit 60mph, the bike starts to feel "loose". Its not quite a speed wobble but almost like a loss of power or something. The needle kind of jumps a little around that speed like it has a hard time maintaining 60mph (which is the speed i most often drive around here). Someone told me that the carb may have 2 jets, the second which hits at 60mph causing the problem. Has anyone experienced anything similar or shed any validation on the 2 jet theory? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I suspect you are running with stock jetting. It tends to surge a bit due to the lean stock condition. Your friend is incorrect. There is two jets, a low speed and a high speed but they operate in tandem. As you progress to more throttle you come off the idle jet and into the main. Get a shop manual, it's the cheapest money you will ever spend. It will save you mucho $$$. Your main jet should be a 185 - 195, the pilot should be a 45 with the screw out about 2 1/2 turns. That should go along way to geting rid of surging. You should also check your intake seals when you have the carb off. They do dry out and leak causing a lean condition. This too will cause surging like you describe. Lots of info in the KV on how to do the jetting. Good luck! Brad | ||
| Djkaplan |
Be careful using jetting specs from a bike in an location so far away from yours. Altitude, humidity and temperature play a big role in fine tuning carbs. The jetting for someone in Minnesota may not be appropriate for someone in Florida. You probably have a #200 mainjet in your stock carb. This is probably richer than you need, but be careful of leaning this circuit out unless you know it's OK to do (plug readings, exhaust sniffing dyno, etc.) A #195 (or lower) main may be appropriate, just make sure first. Definitely readjust your idle mixture screw and richen the pilot jet (slow circuit) to a #45 and fiddle with needle height, though. It's been my experience that if you get it close to right, you should enjoy a more responsive and consistent throttle with no penalty in fuel mileage. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Oh... I'm in Columbus, Georgia, elevation approximately 300 ft. Idle mixure screw - 2 3/4 turns out Stock needle - shimmed up .022" Pilot jet - #45 Main jet - #200 I have a race kit header with V&H muffler, race kit ignition, and Forcewinder airfilter on my stock engined 00 M2. I still get 50+ mpg on the highway. | ||
| Jackbequick |
If that bike sat for a long time without being run, you should consider pulling the carb to give the bowl and jets a cleaning. It is a pretty simple carb to work on, you just need to pay attention to the details on disassembly and reassembly. That will also give you a chance to check for loose bolts and things like a possible leaky diaphragm in the top of the carb. In the process, you should replace the rubber seals on the intake manifold. Those should be replaced every three or four years or so yours is probably due. The symptom of leaking seals is normally roughness at idle and low speeds. What Bluzm2 said on the jets and mixture! Uncapping the low speed mixture screw and adjusting it to 2-1/2 turns and replacing the stock low speed jet will normally make a tremendous improvement in idle and warm up and low speed smoothness. The throttle transitions will be much smoother. Here is a good web site that describes the carb mods you want to do: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm# slide_detail Skip the step #3 slide modifications described there for now. Just replace the low speed jet and maybe the high speed jet for now. And if you are intimidated by it, don't take the top off in step #3. But it is a good time to check for a leaky diaphragm on a 7 or 8 year old bike. My M2 ran wonderfully with the mixture screw setting at 2-1/2 turns, a #45 low speed, and the original #195 high speed. If you have a 185, I'd go ahead and replace that with a 195 simply because a little richer is better for the engine in the long run. That article is talking about doing the work on the EVO 1340cc twin but the CV-40 carb used there is the same as is used on the M2 XL twin. That is a simple and reliable carb and, unless you get hungry for a lot more power, you can't go wrong with it. If you're going to order a service manual get a parts book too. They will pay for themselves if you skip one dealer service. You'll save more money every time you use them but the big deal is that you'll be a much happier M2 owner. Check with a BadWeb sponsor for a good deal the manuals and parts. You may be able to find them at a local H-D dealer. If you worked on your own dirt bikes, working on the M2 is only a little more complicated. Working on a M2 is easy enough, just a little more stuff to get out of the way first but simple enough under it all. With the service manual and parts book, the KV and the folks that have already learned it all will help you get very happy with that bike. The happiest Buell owners are those that do their own work. Other things to look at in the KV: 0 - Don't overfill the oil tank!! Only check and add oil after 15 minute or more run. 1 - Drive belt tension (looser is better!). 2 - Primary chain tension, just a little looser is better. 3 - Perfect shifting and clutch action is achieved by doing a primary chain and clutch adjustment following the details in the KV and service manual. 4 - Tires! The OEM Dunlops suck! I liked Metzler Z6's on mine, there are other popular choices that will make you very happy. Brakes, suspension, etc., some more happiness can be gained there too... Jack | ||
| Elpanameno |
You guys are great. I really appreciate the help and will look at buying a service and parts manual shortly. What about the idle adjustment on the bike (not the one in the carb). Where should I put the bike to idle? Any recommended rpm that I should be at? thanks again | ||
| Aesquire |
1100 rpm. Warm. Yes, it's supposed to sound like a Sportster on Ritalin. Below 700 rpm I'm told you don't get enough oil pressure. A '01 Cyclone has a MUCH lighter flywheel than a Sportster, and although you could run it at 800, it's much happier at 1100. ( 700ft altitude, 45 idle jet 2 1/2 turns, needle shimmed .030", 195 main. ) The idle jet mod is the best thing for warming up faster, and just running better. (Message edited by AESquire on December 21, 2007) | ||
| Jayvee |
I have my idle at about 950 rpm, which I think is the standard in the service manual for Non-California bikes, which mine isn't. It sure makes my eyeballs shake less at stoplights, after I turned it down. Let the bike warm up what seems like a long time at first, is one advice I haven't seen yet. Compared to Honda it seems like forever, but "they" say the payback is in longevity and reliability. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Aesquire, How much weight was cut out of the fly wheels compared to the stock sportster? Also are they modified harley fly wheels or Buells own creation? Thanks | ||
| Aesquire |
I assume made by H-D, spec'd by Buell engineering. I glanced through the K-V archives, and must have missed it. Faulty memory says about 4 pounds. I think they lightened up the crank in 1997 ( maybe on S1W's only??? ) & again in 2000. They might have changed them in 2001 also, I don't know. Court or Blake probably know... ( and a bunch of other Badweb'rs ) |
