| Author | Message | ||
     Pikeslayer |
I'm considering an 88" for my '99 X1. I'd like to try and piece this together over the next year to try and save some bucks. Does anybody have a parts list? I would probably convert to carb at the same time. Should I do some head work at the same time? On a budget here. Thanks | ||
| Bluesboy |
I would think this upgrade is going to put you in the $3000-4000 range.Yes to head work!Look at NRHS site for info and performance charts for different combinations.She`ll RIP when your done! | ||
| Numb_nutz |
Parts list is fairly simple, Pistons , cylinders, gaskets. The expensive part is the labor. Remove the engine, split the cases, bore the cases, port and flow the heads and reassemble. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Don Head work or XB heads with port/valve work are a must. I suggest 630/585 red shift cams or maybe the 585/585 red shift, HSR45 came jetted real close for my 88, screaming eagle intake or other performance intakes. Roller rockers and lifter supports. I used the crane Hi4 stand alone ignition, crane coil, wires and would recommended them, but something a little easier to tune would be my choice though not sure it would ultimately make any difference. Make sure the rotating assembly gets balanced. Also make sure to get machining of the head and piston for optimum efficiency. Also make sure that your clutch is up to speed. Research the website and brains of our sponsors and other engine kit builders. See if you can pick up the upper engine mount off of a carb. M2 or S if they will work. This will make mounting the enricher cable easier. Pickup an increase capacity petcock, Pingle makes a nice selection. You will be going into your tank to get to the fuel pump assembly, get a new seal and the recommended sealer for the fill connection. Now is a good time to replace the oil pump and lines. You will need large dia. fuel line and put a good filter in while you are at it.Now sure of the miles on your bike but replacing the bearing in the case for the transmission output shaft is a good idea. Maybe a full race exhaust, I will be trying that in the future. I find this engine to be excellent for the street. Caution with WOT in first but after that you will smile. Fuel consumption is in the low 40s until you start exercising the throttle then high 30s. I'm sure I have forgotten things but this is the big thinks. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Great info. Bad Karma. What kind of gains could I expect from just pistons, jugs, carb., and ignition? Has anyone done this? I thought I could do the heads, cams later. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Don I did a 1250 upgrade on the S1. It is noticeable and I would recommended it instead of just a stock rebuild. The price is not much more. But there is a big different between the 1250 and the 88. The S1 was a 96 so it was a lightning motor. I installed the 1250 piston and sleeves, 585/585 red shift cams, improved lifter bases, two piece push rod covers, adjustable push rods, roller tip rocker arms, newer style oil pump, XB oil cooler, thunderbolt heads with stage 1 mods, zippers stand alone ignition, HSR42, 26 tooth light weight front pulley and OEM 55 tooth rear pulley. The bike is stronger (not 88" stronger), in first about 5800 or 6000 it will lift the front tyre with a big guy like me. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
I was talking about putting on 88" jugs, pistons, carb., and ignition. Not 1250 jugs. Has anyone done this? I think this would keep the initial cost low. Then maybe a year later do the heads and cams. What do you think? | ||
| Buelliedan |
You are going to have a lot of problems with the stock fuel injection trying to feed an 88" engine. Also 88" kits are not something you can do a piece at a time. It needs to be a matched package otherwise it is going to run like doodoo. I would suggest you thnk twice before embarking on this project. A 1250 sounds like a much better idea. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Pikes,you need to have the cases machined to get 88" jugs on where a 1250 is a bolt-on. Then you need to find someone with experience tuning fuel injected Buells. Unfortunately Al and Terry have not worked their way down to the tube framed bikes in the map developement for FI engine combos.We are going to do a Drummer on Al's XB9 next. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
No offense guys, but read my previous posts. I would switch to a carb. Forget FI, that is not my concern. My concern (question) is will simply increasing displacement give me some nice gains? If I'm gonna blow money on jugs, why would I buy 1250's? 4% displacement increase? I don't think so. WHy not 88" (20% displacement increase)? Yeeeeaaaahhh! | ||
| Bad_karma |
Don 88" will cost between $4,000 to $5,000 roughly. I think you will see some gains, and if you intend to upgrade the heads later, I believe it would be worth it. I don't think you will really get enough out of it without the topend work. You would probly do better just changing to XB heads, XB 9 pistons, with Stage 2 head work and get familiar with ECMSPY. Just an option but I understand the desire to do it your way and see the results for yourself.  Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on December 15, 2007) | ||
| Firemanjim |
It will certainly depend on if you intend to pull engine out and completely apart or just do a top-end on it. 1250 bolts on, an 88" requires complete disassembly and machining the cases to accept the larger cylinders. You could do a 1250 kit with heads and more for what an 88" without all of the above will cost you. | ||
| Pammy |
If you want to piece something like that together, buy the machined parts together(heads pistons cylinders) and do the secondary parts separately. Then do the labor last. By just increasing the displacement, you should see an increase in torque at least...not an improvement worth taking that motor apart more than once to do upgrades later. Unless of course, you are a mechanic(or mechanical) and enjoy the zen-like meditation of motor building...  | ||
| Pikeslayer |
I would definitely be doing the wrenching myself. I understand that the pistons and cylinders should be matched (bore size), but what matching needs to take place regarding the heads. I figured squish could be estimated easily by the people selling me the 88" kit. That's how it was done on my Low Rider. Is there some other head machining that would be necessary initially, or could that wait until I ported the heads the next year? Thanks! | ||
| Pammy |
Well, if you put all the parts on at one time, everything will be fresh. If you wait and do the heads after running the bike for a year or so, you will have to possibly bore/hone and re-ring. It's more economical to do everything at once(labor-wise). That's why I said to get all the machined parts first. Pistons match cylinders. Combustion chambers/valves match pistons. Spring pressures and porting match cam profiles. Finally right before you are ready to assemble, cases will have to be bored to match the cylinders(crank and rotating assemble needs to be checked at this time). So, what I was saying is do your stages on the outside....BEFORE you crack open the motor. You will be better off. | ||
| Blake |
"do your stages on the outside....BEFORE you crack open the motor. You will be better off." Wise counsel from one who knows. | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
how much horse power typically comes out of these 88 inchers? | ||
| Nocompromise |
I don't have anything meaningful to add, other than LISTEN to Jim and Pam! You have 2 of the resident experts sharing their expertise.  | ||
| Pikeslayer |
I'll be doing the wrenching. Labor is a non-issue. Trust me, I'd love to do it all at once, but I can't afford it. I just thought I could up the displacement first as cylinders and pistons are probably the cheapest part of a complete 88" build. Maybe I should go another route. How about this: Is there a camshaft/cylinder head package I could install now that could be used later on an 88" build. I don't want to buy stuff twice. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Pike,not cheapest part as motor has to be completely apart to machine the cases to fit the 88 inch spigots on the larger jugs, so machining and complete set of gaskets included in there---and if you have it completely apart sure makers sense to do whatever else needs doing. |
