| Author | Message | ||
     F_skinner |
I broke the lock that holds the seat on my S2. I decided that I do not want to use that lock anymore because I never did care for it. What I decided to do is velcro the seat to the seat pan plastic. Has anyone ever done this? I am having a hard time determining where I should place the velcro and thought if someone has done it in the past it would save me time. If not I will figure it out and try to post pictures when it is completed. Frank | ||
| Ratbuell |
I know a lot of the "custom" bike builders use suction cups to hold their fanny pads on. Might be a bit better than velcro. Best bet to find contact points is steal some of your kids' play-doh and pretend you're measuring valve to piston clearances. Drop some playdoh in a couple spots under the seat, put the seat in place and sit on it; where it's the thinnest, put the velcro. | ||
| F_skinner |
Rat, good idea. I will try the playdoh method when I get home. Thanks | ||
| F_skinner |
Here is the result of the velcro seat. It actually works very well. Instead of trying to find a low point on the bottom of the seat pan I used the sides near the rear of the seat since without the lock this is where it wants to come off.   | ||
| Ratbuell |
Your seat pan is entirely too clean. You must ride it harder to make it puke oil out the filler cap so it has some fluid under there to catch all the road grit, LOL  And no shop rag stuffed in the "trunk"? Wha...?  | ||
| Court |
>>>And no shop rag stuffed in the "trunk"? Wha...? Too funny . . . I've never had an RS-1200 or an S-2 without the shop rag stuffed in to check the oil. I long ago took the entire lock mechanism and tossed it in the trash. I used a black plug in the hole and a small touch of velcro. My scientific analysis is that with my considerable ass planted on the seat it ain't going anywhere. | ||
| Buelltours |
I just took my S2 seat to the leather repair shop. The previous S2 owner also didn't bother with the rear seat lock and lifted his butt going over railroad tracks... and the seat flew off. Didn't look too pretty. Now the repair shop which told me full of confidence that it won't take longer than 1 week to get it recovered has it since almost 2 months. "This is the most challenging seat we ever had to work on...". Its a Corbin. Looking forward to getting it back... | ||
| Buelltours |
I'll go buy Velcro now. Great Idea, Frank! BTW Congrats to your S2T. I have admired it in Erics garage before... :-) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Rat said, ride that sucker and get it dirty! And put in the requisite rag!!! I'm stealing the velcro idea for both of our S2's. | ||
| Ratbuell |
But Court...what if someone wants to steal your rag? | ||
| F_skinner |
Rag re-inserted  Got a new bike today (1998 S1W)  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Damn, Frank...your garage is starting to look like mine! LOL.  | ||
| F_skinner |
Rat, LOL... You can never have enough Buells. The 98 S1W I picked up did not run (dropped the price a lot). I clean the ignition switch and it fired right up. It pulls real strong. The kid that had it before me did not take care of it. I either need to repaint it or get new body work and need to go through it pretty good and come up with a list of parts. I thought, when I bought it, I would have to rebuild the motor but it runs great, it just needs minor adjustments and it needs to be cleaned. I still miss my 97 S1 but this one satisfies that need lol. I will know more when I get the body off of it today. Frank | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's kinda like mine was when I got it in the summer of '06. Pristine cosmetically (although as soon as I started riding it the tank bubbled and I had to replace it), but with only 1100 miles on it I had a lot of dried seals, intake leaks, gummed carb, bad voltage reg...and a season of riding in, I ate the 5th gear bearing because it had been on a sidestand most of its life and dried out. But it is a ton of fun, and its amazing the difference lighter flywheels make. Both my bikes now have Thunderstorm top ends and cams, but the S1W is sooo much quicker and revs so much faster than the S2 with it's stock '95 bottom end. You're right though - you never can have too many. Unfortunately I can't seem to convince my wife that we also "need" a Uly, LOL. Maybe a 2-up ride on one and she'll see it as a worthwhile replacement for the FLHP (which only gets used these days for 2 up riding, or if I have to carry something heavier than the S2 bags can handle). (Message edited by ratbuell on November 18, 2007) | ||
| F_skinner |
Rat, I just sold my 2004 FLHTCI. When I got the Firebolt I stop riding it. I never did really like it but it was great for 700 mile days and two up. I am real lucky because my girlfriend rides. I just got her a 2007 XLN and sold her 96 XL. I am not much for FI but like the fact that I do not need to work on her XL anymore lol. She has been riding for ten years and if I can find her a Blast (she is only 5'2") real cheap I will get it for her. Frank | ||
| F_skinner |
Rat BTW: I like that rear stand you have on your S1W... Frank | ||
| Ratbuell |
The rear stand is a homebrew from the race team here at work. 3/4" square tube triangle, 2" flat steel bases, and a pin at the top that fits in the axle. Dirt simple to use, I park the bike on the stand, slide the right side into the axle, push the bike onto that stand, insert the left side, done. I can get measurements for ya if you like, just LMK. They *barely* get the back tire off the ground but they're great for stability when working on the bike. When I need to pick it up for a wheel change or tire change I just put a couple 2x4s under the bases, or I use the PitBull. | ||
| Onahog |
Frank/Rat... Are those rags DOT and CSA approved? If so, please supply sal  es venor name too me...Hankb.. | ||
| Court |
I'm pretty sure my shop rags are "approved".  | ||
| Simond |
For the first time in I don't know how long I'm getting a couple of days to ride. I just swapped my seats over only to find that the centre of my seat lock has rotated without the key in it! I can't get the key in and can't get the seat on. Having spent the last couple of hours trying to pick the lock with advice from Youtube (worrying in itself!) I had given up. A quick search here brings up this post at the top of the list. Thanks for the suggestions and I'm sure I can rig something in the morning - what a great place. I feel bad I haven't been here for such a long time. | ||
| Buffalobolt |
Simond, If you have an extra key, you can grind/file off the little protrusion from the key. It will go in the lock in any position then. The guy I bought my bike from had ground that off mosts of the keys for the bike. You turn the ignition on, remove the key, put it in your pocket, and ride. He stated that he did this for two reasons: 1) If that tab breaks off while in the ignition you loose your keys and can't turn off the bike. 2) For the same reason you mentioned about the trunk lock rotating... Hope that helps! | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1 on grinding the tab off...did it on my 'spare', but not for the seat lock...for the saddlebag locks. Have one that likes to rotate halfway (fortunately only HALFway) open on harder rides. | ||
| Simond |
Good idea. I'll get a couple of spares first though. The velcro "fix" at least got me up to Scotland for the last two days but I was concerned that the seat was vulnerable to theft. All was well though and the ride (1,200 miles in a day and a half) well worth it. |
