| Author | Message | ||
     Scott_in_nh |
So after my gear cover started leaking and the starter motor leak worsening, I believe I no longer have any paper gaskets in my 99 S3 (Yeah!). I even replaced the oil pump drive gear while I was in there, so I don't think I have too many 99 model year gremlins left (knock on wood). What I do have is the ignition cutting out, actually everything cutting out. It started last night during my 1st ride with no oil leaks (arghh!). I get no lights or anything, jiggle the key and everything comes on. From doing a search it looks like I can go to the local HD dealer I can give them my key number and ask for a dyna ignition. Correct? Will they have to order it to match the key? I also read somewhere recently that in fact, the gas tank and seat are not key specific (I do not have hard bags). Again, is this correct? If it is, would they typically have an ignition with key in stock? Also, I want to replace the kick stand switch while I'm at it because this is the most likely electrical gremlin to appear next. what is the the HD equivalent? I use the local HD dealer because 1) I can get there and back during lunch and 2) they are very nice and helpful there, the most local Buell dealer used to have a good rep/attitude but I have not heard anything good about them lately from guys who have gone there for Buell parts (i.e. bad attitude at the parts counter and no stock). thanks in advance for your input, Scott | ||
| Reepicheep |
I would start with the ignition switch, and the starter relay. And if I took the time to study a schematic, I could probably eliminate one of those... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
it starts fine when the lights power up, and when it cuts out - everything is out and the bike dies. So I am pretty confident it is the switch, but will inspect the wiring before spending $$... I did have the starter out so I looked there when it died, but I don't think jiggling the key would bring it back to life if the problem was there..... (Message edited by scott_in_nh on September 27, 2007) | ||
| 5liter |
If it's your ignition switch, be prepared to part with 250+ dollars for a replacement keyed for your bike. Mine went bad on me, but I didn't have it quit on me while running. I found a replacement switch on Ebay for a lot less money. | ||
| Ducxl |
Scott,i did this about four months ago.Bring your key and or your VIN#.They can tell by you VIN# what you key is. You CAN order the ignition switch for YOUR key# for $125. That's just the facts as they appeared before me last march.My symptoms were the same. LOOK behind your key switch for the BURNT red wire. WE'VE got defective key switches on our tubers | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
For that kind of money I think I would be installing a toogle switch instead of an Ign switch. But that's just me.........Charlie | ||
| P_squared |
OR....you could buy a new switch from American Sport Bike for $23.95 (not including shipping, but if you're gonna order from American Sport Bike, might as well order a LOT to save on shipping, right????) (http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16033.html)...I had mine go out on me after stopping for breakfast a "ways" away from home, but close enough to a friend that I could get it back to his shop & hot wire it. BTW, Al, my order will be coming in soon. Last auction on ebay I saw (for a matched set) was too much compared to having 2 keys for my bike. | ||
| Yo_barry |
If you peel the rubber Buell logo off of your key, you can find the key #. Have the HD dealer order you a Dyna ignition switch for that key number. If you luck out he may have it in stock. (about $60) As far as I can tell, the gas cap and seat are specifically keyed to be the same as the ignition. I replaced my ignition switch with one I bought from J&P Cycles. That key does not work with the other locks on my S3T. I have a Buell key and another cylinder key on my key ring--one for the ignition and the Buell key for everything else. Barry | ||
| P_squared |
BTW, all it takes 2 hotwire it, just in case u get stuck somewhere FAR from home WHEN it goes out (not "IF"). Cut the 3 wires from the harness just behind the switch and twist all 3 together. BE CAREFUL if you need to gas up w/ this solution as sparks CAN happen (DON'T ASK me how I know this.) | ||
| Iamike |
When my switch started acting up I wired a toggle switch across it and mounted it in a discreet place. When the switch finally died I just started using the toggle. It's been that was for about 5 years and no one has stolen my bike yet. I will probably get one of the American Sport Bike units sometime. | ||
| Road_thing |
I've got a toggle switch hidden on mine, in parallel with they ignition key. No, I won't say where it is! rt | ||
| Bad_karma |
Scott My S3s switch made it about 18,000 miles before it died. I bought the replacement switch and it was keyed to my bike. They used my VIN. It had to be ordered. joe | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Thanks for the input guys! I agree that $125 is steep, $60 might be acceptable. I would get the one from American Sport Bike (I bought the gaskets and pump drive gear from Al recently), but need to decide if I can live with having 2 keys. I am one of those guys who hates things that don't work, so a toggle switch and a non-working ignition switch would bother me. If I go with the Dyna switch, does anybody have the PN for a comparable HD kick stand switch? I just know that one is going to go next! Why no congrats on being paper gasket free? At least a few of you guys must know what a big relief that is! (Message edited by scott_in_nh on September 28, 2007) | ||
| Yo_barry |
In my limited experience, HDs don't have a kickstand switch. (Sportsters anyway) Barry | ||
| Ratbuell |
Correct, there are no sidestand switches on HDs. IIRC, you can bypass that switch anytime (and the safety feature at the same time) by inserting a short piece of wire in the bike side of the connector, across both terminals (connecting them together). Open switch equals ignition kill; closed equals run. I know guys who've got 20k miles on a piece of paper clip in there, LOL. | ||
| Xldevil |
IIRC, you can bypass that switch anytime (and the safety feature at the same time) by inserting a short piece of wire in the bike side of the connector One of the first upgrades I did to my Cyclone. Ralph | ||
| Ducxl |
but need to decide if I can live with having 2 keys. I am one of those guys who hates things that don't work, so a toggle switch and a non-working ignition switch would bother me. I hear you.Especially with your pristine example of an S3. $125. for a new BUELL ignition switch "Keyed" for YOUR bike.Don't hack it (Message edited by ducxl on September 29, 2007) (Message edited by ducxl on September 29, 2007) | ||
| Ducxl |
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| Scott_in_nh |
So I took the switch apart and the problem seems to be twofold. 1st, the quality or quality control on the way the contacts are installed is lacking. Mine barely had any contact area exposed and it is amazing that it worked this long. So I removed excess plastic and fine sanded all of the contacts, lubricated and reassembled. Secondly, the switch seems like either it was optimistically rated for the required amperage, undersized or again poor quality. When I put power to it, I cold feel the hotwire getting very hot to the touch. I couldn't reinstall it that way as I'm sure it would have looked like Ducxl's in no time. So I bought a $7 relay to take the high amperage out of an otherwise working switch, some wire and connectors, and have it back together and running for about $15! (Message edited by scott_in_nh on October 07, 2007) | ||
| Brokeneck |
Thanks for not using paper gaskets -- we need the trees -- |
