| Author | Message | ||
     Pikeslayer |
Does anyone know how to test the engine temp. sensor? For instance X volts = Y °F, or X ohms = Y °F. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
OK got my earthbook out for you.  It says on page 4-52: resistance_____Temp 0______________572 145____________491 303____________410 463____________374 638____________338 1.042K_________302 1.539K_________266 4.991K_________185 25.64K_________104 41.295K________77 Temp is in F It says the tolerances are 20% Yip Yip Yip.... | ||
| Oldog |
Nate you kill me !  yip yip yip~ | ||
| Wile_ecoyote |
Yeah, he likes to hang his bike from trees. Not that theres anything wrong with it.............. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Thanks a lot Nate! Is all this kinda info in the service manual? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yes the manual is very good. It goes into crazy detail about FI problems. One thing it does not have is how to replace the rear isolators. just how to remove the engine totally. That frustrated me badly. Now that I did it once, it would be an hour job next time. | ||
| Iamike |
When I was troubleshooting my S3 I made a little jumper with a male and female ends on it and a bare spot in the middle. Plug it in the head temp sensor lead and connect a volt meter from the bare spot to ground. VDC DEG F. 0.00 572 0.21 491 0.42 410 0.62 374 0.81 338 1.20 302 1.59 266 3.01 185 4.43 104 4.63 77 4.83 50 Mine read a little low but tracked right along with the rise in temp as it ran. I used a temp. meter to watch the actual temp. as the bike ran. When I proved that it wasn't the sensor I checked the plug wires and coil then watched the spark. When all those looked good I moved to the injectors. That's where I found the problem. Not getting any codes makes a little harder to troubleshoot. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Ok, you guys have confused me now. Is it VDC or Ohms? | ||
| Iamike |
Don, The engine (or head) temp sensor is a thermocouple that changes resistance as the temp changes. In this case the resistance goes down as the temp goes up. The ECM presents a voltage to the sensor and when it is cold the voltage stays high. As the engine heats up the resistance goes down and the voltage does too. That is how the ECM measures the engine temp. You can measure the resistance as the engine is running but you will cause a 'check engine' code if you unplug it. That was why I made the jumper so that I could monitor the voltage drop across the sensor as the engine is running. The manual gives both resistance and voltage values so that you can check the sensor with or without the engine running. I broke the lead on my sensor a long time ago when I was changing plugs. It broke inside the rubber sleeve right at the top of the sensor but was intermittent. I would be riding then all of a sudden it would start running rough and give me a code. What the ECM does is skip firing sequences on the rear cyclinder when it senses a hot conditon. I think it also uses the temp. to decide when to move from the cold start map to a warmed up map. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Thanks Iamike. That is exactly what my bike is doing. Missing intermittently on the rear cylinder. I think I will just order a new sensor. Where is the lowest price place to get one? | ||
| Iamike |
I kind of hate to just change things out without proving that is the problem. Are you getting a 'check engine' light? I'm thinking that if it was seeing a hot engine that it would turn on the light. I would still monitor the sensor with a setup like I used. When I watched the voltage go down smoothly and no blips as the engine warmed up, I knew it wasn't the sensor. On another thread I think someone said their replacement sensor was about $25. | ||
| Yo_barry |
I paid $35 for the sensor. You will need one of those nifty split deep sockets to get the old one out and the new one in. The split allows space for the lead without damaging it. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
I am not getting a check engine light. I'll test it tonight as you described. | ||
| Noonesmeans |
I had a problem with really rough running in the 2500-3500 range with only the occasional brief code. Turns out the ETS was just loose. I made the tool from a cheap Lowe's deepwell socket. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Engine temp sensor checks out ok. It is definitely only missing on the rear cylinder. Can I therefore rule out the O2 sensor? | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
id say so... O2 sensor would give a code. Note The TPS sensor adjust is done at a certain temp. Temp sensor must not be erratic and TIGHT. TPS is set when temp sensor is above a certain temp and steady. Having a loose temp sensor can really mess with the ecm , remember the ecm will chose a map based on running highway conditions. A loose temp sensor can foul out your plugs. A tps reset done with a bad temp sensor can leave you stranded ( fouled plugs ) | ||
| Oldog |
Pikes? what have you checked so far? plug? wire ? wiring to coil? injector or fuel pressures? o2 being off would effect both cylinders. Grad is correct on Tps setting at operating temp. not likely a tps problem. On the surface it sounds like a problem with the plug wiring or just the plug.. | ||
| Pikeslayer |
Ive looked at the plugs. Looked normal. Plug wires seem to be seated, no bare spots either. If I am on the throttle, even the slightest, it runs great. When running constant speed through the neighborhood, 30 mph, 2500 rpm, probably 7% throttle, it misses. My 2006 Low Rider did this until I re-tuned with the Twin Scan and Power Commander. It was bored and had a descent cam in it. Haven't checked injectors. Whats the best way, switch front to back? Watch them spray? Only 12k miles on the bike. | ||
| Iamike |
What type of bike do you have. It was relatively easy to swap the injectors on my S3. I could reach down and remove the fuel manifold hold down bolt with an allen wrench. I could do it in about 20 min. with out removing the intake, throttle body etc. I could tell which cyclinder wasn't running by feeling the exhaust pipes when I start it. The one with the bad injector didn't warm up nearly as fast. The injectors just push into the ports. Use a little motor oil to lubricate the o-rings and they will pop right in. Make note of the retaining clip that holds the injector in the fuel manifold. I had a little trouble with mine un-clipping a little when I pushed the ecm connector back on it. You definitely don't want fuel spraying around up there. I tried cleaning the injectors first by activating them with a 1/2A 12v battery charger. I sprayed carb cleaner thru them but the bad one still stuck again. | ||
| Oldog |
unless you have gas quality issues I am supprised that the injector would be bad, Not saying impossible just supprised, small throttle openings and the rear jug misses? I would check the wiring and run some "SEAFOAM" or simialr through the bike to try and clean it. I have never removed the valves so I dont know on the X1 my guess is that you may be able to change them manifold inplace. Your problem is interesting, in that the plugs look good it may be a dirty injector lower speed and steady state, possible vibes and a loose/nicked wire issue? |
