| Author | Message | ||
     Noonesmeans |
I bought a 2001 X1 lightning (white/purple, 10k miles, had been somewhat neglected) about a month ago after 6 years without a bike. I spent the first couple of weeks getting it together (tires, oil, air filter, loose Engine Temp Sensor). It runs good now, and I've been (re)learning to ride for the past few weeks. I was pretty pleased with it. Then I rode a demo XB12S at the local HD gift shop toady. It made me wonder if I might need to do something else (TPS reset, maybe?) because it was smooth at all RPMs. Mine is all kinds of lumpy--rough, really--under ~2600. Can someone who knows tell me if all is well with my Lightning? Also, I need to get the seat re-done and do something about the suspension. Apparently mine is really harsh, beating a brother to death over all bumps. I didn't have anything to compare it to since my only previous bike was a Ural. I hope it adjusts out to be similar to the XB. My impressions of the XB vs. the X1, in case anyone is interested: + way upright posture compared to the X1 + easier reach to the bars + the seat is approx. 1,000 times better. I am not exaggerating. + way smoother power delivery + so tiny I couldn't see any part of the bike but the mirrors while riding + I felt every one of the missing 80 pounds -foot controls were in a weird place +/- no vibration (nice on the hands, but I do miss that shake at idle) Overall, I would swap if I could afford to, although it didn't make me like My X1 much less, except for the posture. I really thought the X1 would be more like my old Ural. ...Of course it's only noticeable under 60. Ride safe, y'all. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
Make sure the suspension is set properly for your weight - you may find a huge difference. If you don't have the owner's manual, I can scan and email the relevant pages to you. | ||
| Noonesmeans |
I bought the factory manual. It was the best $60 I spent, I think. That's how I figured the ETS thing out (it was throwing a code). I was planning to get to checking out the suspension right after replacing the brake fluid. Any idea about the rough running under 2600 RPM? | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
My bike is carbed, so I can't be of too much help with rough running on an EFI bike. Have you checked the usual culprits like the plugs and wires? | ||
| Silas_clone |
I set the front end pre-load/damping to spec for my weight [300+]. I liked the way it handled and rode it for a while like that. Decided that it was a bit "rough" on bumps so I set it back to "normal". I rode it for quite a while at "normal" settings. I went back today to settings for my weight. Way better bike with pre-load and damping set for my weight. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Check your engine mounts / stabilizers. If you have one that's loose, out of spec, or broken you can get excessive shake. I have an S1W that I bought a year ago, practically new (1100 miles). Compared to my FLHP (58k miles), it rode like a rock. I figured "that's the price between a bagger and a Buell". Then, I bought an S2 (17k miles) about 3 months ago. Holy S**t. This thing is more comfy than my bagger, and handles better than my S1W. Turns out I had my S1W set waaay too firm on the suspension. I've been gradually softening it (I'm "relatively" light- only 200lb) and it's been getting better and better. Last adjustment was one click softer f/r on rebound, 2 clicks softer on compression...and my feet don't tingle anymore and I can feel my fingers after a 1hr ride. Cooool.  I guess I learned the moral the hard way - firmer doesn't necessarily mean better handling, and smaller bikes don't *have* to beat the crap out of you to handle well. Small adjustments, one at a time...and you'll get 'er figured out. | ||
| Mbsween |
Joe, First off it ain't purple (Court's S1 was but thats another story....) its "Nuclear Blue" and the white is "Artic White". I bought the same bike way back in 2001. Just bustin on ya man. Check your plugs, a bad ETS will make the engine think its cold all the time and it will run really rich. Mine would foul plugs every 50 miles or so when the ETS was bad (the code didn't show until the sensor was really dead). Mines got a bit more mileage (35K) and its pretty smooth through the rev range. I have the Race ECM , A Forcewinder intake and a White Brothers Pipe. You may need a TPS reset, but generally I think it would run crappy across the range instead of just below 2600. Good luck, its a great bike. have fun Matt | ||
| Noonesmeans |
Ratbuell, thanks that's what I wanted to hear. Mbsween, did I say "purple?" Whoops, I should have known. New plugs were the first thing I did (after some new Diablos, I was afraid to ride it home on what was on it  ). It had the 6R12s (from the factory?). I went with the NGK DCRP8s. After that it would start cold, it just took some throttle twisting. It still had a wicked stumble with the throttle slightly open between 2500 and 3500. I guess it was jumping in and out of closed loop or periodically running way rich or lean when the ETS lost its ground to the cylinder head. It threw a code once. I took of the tank. ETS was backed out about a turn-and-a-half and rattling in its hole. After I converted a .5-in socket and snugged it up the resistance was right in spec cold, so I didn't replace it. Now it fires up every time and has not stumbled at all--and no codes. I've gone through a couple tanks since then with no problems. I assumed it ran the way it does below 2600 because of the cams or something--until yesterday. You think the sensor could still be bad? | ||
| Noonesmeans |
And I replaced the air filter (also from the factory?). The inside of the air box had a thin film of (black) oil everywhere and there were some grains of sand stuck to it here and there. The factory airbox design puzzles me--there is no way it can make a good seal over all that huge area on all those huge injection molded parts. It has got to go. When I changed the oil I saw that what oil there was in it had been working really hard for a very long time. I hope it wasn't from the factory. | ||
| Mbsween |
Joe, Possibly, its reasonably easy to switch out. Mine didn't throw a code for eons even though i was fouling the plugs in as little as 50 miles. Another possibility is bad intake seals or leaking exhaust seals. The exhaust seals are easy, the intakes are a pita. Al over at American Sport bike sells a nice wrench to help get the intake allen bolts out if you go that route. The goo in the airbox is the blowby or puke from the rockerboxes. Its normal, so bikes do it more than others. Mine does a lot when its cold outside (below 50) and not so much when its warm . The easiest thing to do is route the tubes into a catch can and then you have the mess contained matt | ||
| Noonesmeans |
It's not the blowby, but the sand that has me concerned. In a related story, I was just outside checking the suspension settings. The rear compression adjustment screw was very hard to turn, then it felt like it broke free, but now it turns freely in both directions and the head pushed out. Now it sticks out of the shock body about 1/8-in. If you push it in it slowly pops back out. (!!) Is it...dead? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Perhaps someone gutted your airbox? My X1 was gutted when I bought it and it also filed up with sand, pebbles, and small birds. A stock airbox has the snorkel tube going into the front chamber. The front chamber is supposed to be clean. I gave up trying to get stock parts from the crappy dealer where I bought it and just went with a forcewinder. | ||
| Ducxl |
Mr. Noons,i've got both a '99X1 and '05 12r.I prefer the longer reach to the bars on the 12r.Performance wise,i believe technology only moves forward.Thus the 12 is superior.But the X1 is a HOOT to ride hard.Seat? mine is bone stock and i only use it occasionally when not riding hard in the twisties,no problems/w comfort. The X1 grew harder starting and ran a little rough.I accidentally broke the TPS sensor doing maintainance.After replacing it and PROPERLY doing a RESET (thanks for the VDSTS Eric  ) it starts and settles right into a good idle from cold W/O throttle manipulation EVERY time and runs overall better.Long story short...try a TPS reset. | ||
| Noonesmeans |
The airbox is stock. It hasn't been gutted. It's just an imperfect seal. Duc, the X1 certainly is a hoot to ride hard. If I wasn't clear, it starts and idles (at about 1,025 RPM) really nice since tightening up the ETS. Before you replaced and zeroed your TPS, did yours run rough at low RPMs? Anyone have any info about the rear shock adjustment screw? It feels like something in the mysterious innards stripped. I do not want to buy a new one. Digging in the KV I saw a few references to "all the nitrogen leaking out." What is that all about? | ||
| Oldog |
Noones: I did the force winder, super trapp and a race ecm. My air box was the same way, off it get the force winder and some banjo bolts ( or do the XB vents See the KV ) If you can find one the "factory custom" saddle is quite comfy. the shock thing does not sound too good, the screw may have seized in the hole and you just broke the out side end. ( I speculate ) in reference to the "nitrogen" the seals on the showas are prone to fail after a couple of years ( ok 3~4 ) depending on the conditions the OIL and Gas escape and the tail end pogos as the shock no longer damps the movement.. | ||
| Mbsween |
Joe, The adjuster on my shock (which is shot by the way, a lot of fluid has leaked out leaving me a pogo-stick, see olddogs comment) turns without popping out and there's some resistance to turning. So it sounds like yours may have issues. if it behaves okay during riding, I wouldn't think its much of an issue. On the other hand if you see fluid pouring out, well you get the idea. There are plenty of sponsors who will sell you a nice new Works or Penske model. Costs start around 700 and go as high as 13xx for the penske. You can find the Showa on Ebay most any day. Good luck Matt | ||
| Noonesmeans |
I haven't gotten a chance to ride it yet. I guess we'll find out. An aftermarket shock costs a quarter of what I paid for the bike, but a used stock shock is a gamble, and might find me back where I was WRT a harsh ride. I've been wearing out the search function and it seems like a lot of people suggest rebuilding the forks when replacing the rear shock. Is that the way to go? Hmmm. Thanks for the input guys. Hopefully someone with XB and tuber experience will pipe up about the rough running at low RPMs. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
Did you replace intake seals? You should replace these every couple of years. Replace your intake seals. Leaks are a problem but Age is a problem here too. Also tps sensor is reset in relation to engine temp. Engine temp must reach a certain temp then tps is checked and reset. A proper TPS reset will not occur if ETS is ERRATIC. FAILING. Resetting a TPS and blowing off what the temp sensor is doing can foul your plugs out down the road. Since yours was flopping around loose who knows. | ||
| Oldog |
I had poor results trying to "Ohm" the standard ET sensor. I have to agree with Grad here intake seals are a 2~3 year life span, as related by some of the better known ol-timers. I dont know the details but Grads comments make some sense as the procedure calls for the engine to be at OT, as rule I am rotating thru replacing sensors ET/o2/TPS as these take the brunt of abuse in operation ( heat and mech wear ) the race mod seems to have a poor warm up and erratic idle when cold ( mine idles slow, gradualy settling in at 1050 when Warm.) | ||
| Noonesmeans |
I don't have any of the classic bad intake seal problems (surging, slow return to idle, lean popping), so I doubt it's a problem. It starts and runs so nice-changes from open loop to closed loop without my knowing, I doubt the ETS is going bad either. After reading (somewhere) that the engine shake may cause the tuber's shocks to fail, I am starting tho think that I may be overreacting. Maybe the XB is just a much more "wrung out" design. That is an engineering term here in South Carolina. As far as the rear shock goes, I finally got a chance to ride it, and it was fine. Of course if were really bad I might not be the person to pick up on it as I am still pretty new to post-1930s motorcycles. I can just feel the rear end squat if I really get on it coming out of a turn, but not in a scary way, and the bumps are much better. I set the other adjustments at or near the manual's recommendation (they were weird, some all the way in, others all the way out), and I think the suspension is working better than it was. My theory is this: The rear compression damping screw was turned all the way in by some misguided previous owner, and hard, seizing something. (I guess this because the rear rebound damping was all the way in as well, and because of the bone-jarring ride.) After some years passed, I tried to loosen it and something broke, fluid pressure pushed the needle all the way out. Now it is permanently fully open. Is this crazy? Anyway, as long as nothing else comes up, I'm going to ride it. I rode it to work today, in fact. It is still an awesome bike, even if it is dated. If this motorcycle thing sticks for a year or two I'll decide whether to sell it and buy an XB or sink a couple thousand dollars into this one for new shocks, a new seat, a Forcewinder, and some really loud pipes.  I love those purple rims. |
