| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
So I figure now's a better time than ever to start getting my new-to-me buell ready for a 10k mile summer. (I'm probably dreaming with that number... but that's the goal) I'll have the service manual and parts catalog on order soon. Here's my list of things to get from the dealership. What other gaskets or parts should I replace while I'm at it? New 01 metal rockerbox gaskets New 02 primary chain tensioner Uly Clutch Spring (maybe) 3 pack of extra clutch disks (maybe) Harley 20w50 oil Primary gasket Shifter bushings Recalled Rear Shock Tranny Fluid K&N Oil Filter DOT 4 Brake Fluid I've also got a list of stuff to get from American sportbike... But they're mostly fun stuff... so they'll have to wait until the bikes in perfect order. | ||
| Daves |
I would also look at the clutch cable Rear Isolators Front isolator Starter gasket Wheel bearings Fork oil Brake pads | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wouldn't worry about the clutch. Mine lasted about 55,000 miles. Very easy to replace the plates. In fact, more easy to do than my kawasaki dirt bike  You just need to fab up a simple tool to compress the clutch spring. I can repost the pics if you want. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I found the original thread that had the pics in it: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html | ||
| Hughlysses |
10k would be a good time to switch to synthetic. IMHO well worth the extra money in these hot-running air-cooled engines. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Oh, let me clarify: I have 15k miles on it now. I plan on putting an additional 10k miles on it this summer. | ||
| Oldog |
Mike, check those wheel bearings! and the ISOlators the three rubber biscuits the front one will likely need attention. due to age more than milage. they rip and its hard to see until total failure. Oh and welcome  bad front iso, pulled today...  pulling a wheel bearing using heat on the UN FINISHED PM wheel, | ||
| Bookyoh |
Mike: I went through some of the same things with my '01 S3T which I bought in December 2005. I also have an '00 M2 and had previously done most of the updates like tensioner, rear isolators, Y exhaust hanger, and recall shock over a period of a couple of years. My recommendation is to take your time, take care of the normal maintenance items, and ride the bike. Spend more of your time and miles getting to know how it sounds and feels. If you tear into everything right away and then something goes wrong, you will be left with a more diffcult diagnostic to figure out what you missed. It would be nice if you could find out if the 10,000 mile maintenance was done on the steering head and swingarm bearings. I would suspect that the rocker cover gaskets have already been replaced on your bike. Four out of my past and present 4 Sportster/Buell motors have leaked at well below 15,000 miles. On the shock, there is nothing wrong with the SRP you have over the stock shock. If it were my bike (and my M2 did have the SRP) I would ride it until either: 1. I was able to get Buell to replace it. 2. It wore out or leaked. 3. I upgraded to something better. I have a friend whose old style primary tensioner did go out on him so I think that is worth the peace of mind to see if yours has been upgraded. You will need to replace the shifter shaft oil seal when you pull the primary cover. Good luck. Mark | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Mike- what month was your bike made? Late '00 (June+) is when the tensioner was upgraded to the thicker plate. If you have the upgraded tensioner, I'd say leave the primary alone. As others here say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Same with your clutch pack, you should get to 30-50k before the spring plate becomes an issue. You should lube your clutch cable in either case. If you have an early '00 then you should figure on replacing the tensioner, as those have tended to fail ~15k. While you're in there you can get after the spring plate; theoretically, you can then leave your primary alone for 100k or more, with luck. I recommend the Uly diaphragm spring, for 3 reasons: it's easier on your hand, it's less tension on the clutch pack, and you're in there anyway, if you go after the spring plate. Here is a thread on the job for a double-O M2. I 2nd the advice on the shock, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think there was only one early shock that broke, it was on a test bike or race bike and AIRC wasn't catastrophic. I may be wrong tho. You can find detailed, specific answers to technical questions in the KV. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
On the shock-if Harley will goodwill the part, grab it. I don't know that there is a "3-pack" of clutch plates. You will be looking at 2 steels @13 apiece or whatever, and a fiber @26 bucks or whatever, total around 50 bucks new. A better alternative is to get them used, either from someone here or, if no one has them kicking around, from a Buell tech. They usually have a box of spares, including perfectly serviceable clutch plates from customers who wanted aftermarket clutches for whatever misguided reason. Usually for the price of a six-pack. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Ok, the shock leaked all the fluid out, and the dealership said that the recalled shock had already been taken care of on my bike (In august of 2000) So I sprung on a deal on ebay (I feel it was a deal) and got one from a 2001 with the external resavoir. It came with the bracket. I also headed to the dealership for round one: 4 Quarts of oil 1 Quart of tranny fluid Updated primary tensioner Primary Gasket Shifter Bushing 2 Questions: How do I get the shifter lever off of the shaft to get the primary cover off? I loosened the allen bolt, but it still wont budge. Also, what's the best performing spark plug for these bikes? | ||
| Bomber |
Mike -- completely remove the bolt holding the shifter on the shaft -- mebbe a lil penetrating oil, but the shifter should slide right off as for plug, new ones;-} really, my Y2K MeDeuce doesn't seem to care what they are so long as the edges on the electrodes are sharp -- I sprung for the Pro Series at one point, and felt no differnece, and they didn't last much longer . . . . | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Got a number or something on which plugs I should buy so I can get them from an auto parts store? If they don't make any difference, I'd rather not spend twice as much to get the ones that say BUELL on them from the dealership. I did not take the bolt all the way out, I just loosened it a bunch. I'll try that next week (when I plan on replacing the tensioner and shock and changing the fluids) | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
Last time around I used Champion 810 (a.k.a. RA8HC), no need to visit the dealer for plugs. I agree with Bomber - my M2 doesn't care what's in there, either. | ||
| Mikej |
Sometimes it helps to gently tap a flat screwdriver into the slot of the shift lever to relieve friction/pressure, they usually wobble right off after that if they were a bit snug or stuck/corroded. | ||
| Chasespeed |
NGK, DPR9EA9 is what I run in my X1, though, you are running a M2...BUT, as far as I can tell, the plugs are the same for the t-storm motors... Chase | ||
| Bad_karma |
Here is some cross reference data that I found trying to get a selection of plugs to use and test hope it helps. Joe Buell 10R12 cool COOLER* Champion RA6HC RA4HC NGK DCPR8E DCPR9E Autolite 4163 4162 Denso IXU24 IXU27 | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Thanks! | ||
| Sanchez |
As long as you have the primary cover off anyway, it would be a good time to replace the starter gasket. Now would also be a great time to take the primary chain off, inspect your shifter detent plate, and replace the notoriously fragile clip that holds it on. The plate and clip are $4 well spent. Here's a thread with some pictures: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/203866.html At 15k miles, those may have already been done though. Mine both went out before 9k. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Do I need to pull the clutches or anything to change the shifter detent plate and clip? Or just the primary cover? Ok, so adding these: Front Emulator (inspect others) Starter Gasket Shifter Detent Plate Shifter Detent Clip How should I check the wheel bearings? Just simply lift it in the air, make sure it spins freely, and make sure there's no side to side play whatsoever? (Message edited by Mikef5000 on January 06, 2007) | ||
| Iamike |
I check the condtion of my clutch cable at the lever every so often. At 30kmi. I replaced mine just to be safe. Last summer at about 59.5kmi. mine broke (at the lever) on my way into work. It was kind of fun  running stop signs so I could make it into work on time. It was nice having the spare available to get it back on the road right away. I'll probably put a new one back on to get a few more years service out of it again. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Do I need to pull the clutches or anything to change the shifter detent plate and clip? Or just the primary cover? The primary needs to come off, chain, motor sprocket, clutch basket. I wouldn't do that job unless I was having shift problems. Check the link Sanchez gave you above. The old Harley motto if it ain't broke don't fix it applies to this area, especially if using an impact. You can get around w/o air tools if you use a block of wood jammed in the sprog teeth. You can look around a little at the trans w/the pri cover off, maybe use a mirror to check the detent plate etc. I would go after the primary tensioner for sure, and replace the spring plate, also the diaphragm and primary fluid w/Uly items but that is my preference. That requires a spring compressor tool but not pulling the primary. On the whole subject of Buell trans/primary problems, they seem to vary w/the individual. When I was preparing to update my primary, I researched the KV and this forum heavily. I kind of rounded off the average of everyone's experience, factored in my own, and considered the history and performance of my bike. Just b/c a tube frame Buell tips on the left side doesn't guarantee future trans issues, but many people w/shift problems seem to have had tipovers. YMMV. How should I check the wheel bearings? Just simply lift it in the air, make sure it spins freely, and make sure there's no side to side play whatsoever? That's a good start. If you pull the wheel for any reason, have a look at the bearings. If they say France it's a good bet they're original equipment and at 15k it's good insurance to replace. The factory bearings seem to give very slight noise/slop indications while riding before they let go. Also: as IAmike says, lube your clutch cable. It's easy when you're in the primary anyway. (Message edited by Hippyjoe on January 06, 2007) | ||
| Oldog |
Mike: if you off the wheels and the bearings are not new with the milage you are talking about riding change them. my old wheel bearings hailed from korea and turkey, Get the new ones from American Sport Bike ( a sponsor of the board) Not the dealer, My bike has 20k on it the bearings are failing, I think that I caught it just in the nick of time its not a major job. you dont have to remove the tires just deflate them if you use heat on the hubs. I am replaceing mine today see the KV later in the next week I will post info on it there. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
It's fairly difficult to find N a lot of the time, but other than that, I don't have much trouble shifting. I haven't ridden any other buells, so I don't really know if mine shifts normal or hard. It definately shifts harder than my dads Harley. | ||
| Wolf102 |
try reving it lightly when shifting into N.I have the same problem with my s2 but i got use to it. | ||
| Henrik |
It's been mentioned that using impact on the nuts holding the primary drive may not be a good idea - the magnets on the rotor *may* get knocked loose. Mine came loose with a 4 1/8" aluminum bar stock (Home D) wedged between the sprockets and a looong breaker bar. If the rear wheel spins you can slip a piece of 2x4 through the spokes so it locks the wheel against the swingarm. Henrik | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I stopped by the dealership agiain, this time I picked up the Primary shifter rod seal and the Front Upper Isolator. I started tearing into it today with limited success so far (see HELP thread). This is the tranny fluid:  NOT PRETTY! I also had a little chia pet on the magnet! Back to work for me.... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The chiapet is normal. make sure that there are no large chunks is all. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Whoa, This is the old tensioner I pulled off my bike. (The bike I've put 500 miles on over the past 2 weeks):     Wonder where the rattle noise I heard in the primary was coming from? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Rear shock, and front isolator will both go in tomorrow. What is the spec on the primary chain tension? Also, How do I change the fork oil? Is it fairly straight forward? I'd love to do that tomorrow too... but if it's complicated I'll wait till my service manual gets here. My dad's harley takes a different fluid for the primary than the fluid in the tranny... this bike takes tranny fluid directly in the primary correct? Thanks guys! Mike | ||
| Djkaplan |
The primary and trans share the same oil - pour it in from the clutch inspection (derby) cover. Don't blindly pour in 32oz of oil; not all of the oil in the primary/trans drains from the plug (about 4oz stays in the bike). Just touching the clutch basket with the bike upright and level is the correct oil capacity. I remember 3/8" to 1/2" cold being the setting for primary chain slack (confirm this!). With a new shoe, you'll have to check the tension often until it wears in. Don't overtighten the primary chain - bad things will happen. Good catch on the cracked shoe! | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Shock and Primary are all back together and running great! It shifts twice as easy as before! And the primary area is much quieter! The new rear shock makes the bike sit higher and ride firmer than the old one (before it died). So Wednesday I'm heading in to the dealership and they're going to set up the preload and whatnot for me. Here's my jack setup! It's off center... but it worked fantastic! Setup in 10 minutes, and next time will be half that! I had to run to a class in the middle of the project, so it held the bike with no problem for a good 7 hours.     The knot on top was not holding any weight... It's just there to keep the slack out of my way. The back tire was still resting on the ground, but it had none of the bikes weight on it at all. I could grab the bike and skid the tire side to side no problem, but it was still on the ground so the new shock lined right up. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Changed the oil and filter today along with spark plugs and a new shifter bushing. Also installed new rear turn signals! (The round smoked ones off all the newer Buells) And installed a thumb operated cruise-control! I'm about ready for summer! To bad it looks like winter is coming next week. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on January 15, 2007) |
