| Author | Message | ||
     Malott442 |
Has anyone gone from FI to carb, and what is the cheapest way to do it? | ||
| Bad_karma |
Malott442 I just finished converting my 99 S3 to carb. HSR42 direct bolt up to screaming eagle intake even with my CF breather. Used crane hi-4 single fire ignition in the nose cone also crane coil and wires. The best spark that I have seen this side of a magneto. Need to get choke cable opted for mukini cable because of quality and no spring and adapter mods required. The only real mods came to the tank. Let me say that my solution is just a option. I pulled the pump assembly removed the pump, regulator and drilled out the fuel supply nipple to get more flow. I jetted the carb without the shut off valve ran strong like it hasn't and many years. I got a shutoff valve from pro motion but have a line kinking problem that had to take a back seat to helping my son move to his new house. I have the buell Carbon fiber breather and two brothers can on the stock header. The installed 160 main was too rich for both the front and rear cylinders. The 155 that comes with the kit is close but on the leans side. But keep in mind I weigh 290 the bike has a baker six speed and I'm running 27/55 pulleys. The rubber washers for the two tank penetrations need new washers. Make sure that you have sealer for gasoline exposure. If you have big hands getting the fuel pump assembly in and out will require forward thinking(even with the fuel filler assembly removed. Also make sure that you have the carb ignition wheel in the nose cone. My ignition came with it. This can be done in about two to four hours depending on your buell experience. My buell maintenance manual helped. Use some fresh 5/16 fuel line. I like fuel injection line. Also keep the chaffing sleeve from the old fuel line. I notched the outboard hole in the upper engine bracket (where the fuel filter was mounted) for the choke cable mounting point. Sorry no pictures. The camera made it to the work bench but things went so fast we never turned in on. Joe | ||
| X1rated |
I used a stock cv40 carb with the typical mods,and a stock manifold.Bolts right up using the stock FI bracket, and cables. Easiest way is an aftermarket air cleaner, you could feasibly use the stock air box, but you would need to modify it with probably fiberglass. Ran the breathers into a homemade catchcan. I did it a little differently with the ignition.I put the carbie ignition wheel in the nosecone, but left the factory sensor.I used a crane hi4-e(which actually bolts up to the factory ECM holes under the seat!)and purchased the correct deutch(sp) connectors to make an adapter harness. My ignition was plug and play right into the factory harness.It was more expensive, but I liked the idea of not cutting the factory harness, and making ignition adjustments by only pulling the seat.For fuel, I plugged off all of the FI stuff, and drilled a hole in the tank at the sump in the back where the pump picks up. This way I didn't lose fuel capacity. I fabbed up a bulkhead connector from -AN fittings and ran that into a fuel valve made from brass fittings at ACE hardware! Not pretty, but durable and cheap! I just tucked it where you cant see it.I've since seen bulkhead fittings for drag car fuel cells that would probably work better, and be less trouble.Good call,Karma on the gasoline resistant sealers.I used rubber washers to seal the bulkhead connector,and quickly realized that they were NOT gasoline resistant.  Justin | ||
| X1rated |
Forgot to mention,I was giggling like a schoolgirl at the way the bike ran as compared to the FI.TOTALLY worth it! | ||
| Chevysolid |
I didn't actually do the conversion myself, but MAN what a nice smooth ride it is with a 42mm Flat slide Mikuni Carb... Lots of GO.... The 1250 motor helps too.  |
