| Author | Message | ||
     Jersey_thunder |
My alternator needs to be replaced...pulled the primary off(with isolator brackets on)...SH!!...need pullers...one for clutch and one for drive sprocket...where can i get them?... jt | ||
| Henrik |
You should be able to pull the whole clutch/chain/rotor/drive sprocket off as a unit. Because of the magnets in the rotor (I think) it takes some pulling, but I got mine out by hand just recently. What you do need is a press to get the rotor/alternator off the drive sprocket if you choose to reuse the sprocket. If you're thinking of doing some motor work down the line, it may be a good idea to upgrade sprocket/rotor to the newer 8-bolt version, as there has been stories of the older 4-bolt sprocket coming loose from the rotor. Henrik | ||
| Oldog |
American Sport Bike you need a locking bar buy or improvise you may opt to remove the spring plate. you need a clutch spring tool. you are replacing the "STATOR" ( wound part ) ? or the rotor (the magnets)? as Henrik and others have indicated the clutch and rotor with chain are removable as a unit. | ||
| Henrik |
Jim; thanks for clarifying - mind obviously not entirely in the game. Thanks. About the clutch spring - don't pull it until you have loosened the clutch hub and engine sprocket nuts ... been there done that  Henrik | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
replacing the sytator and rotor........ What you do need is a press to get the rotor/alternator off the drive sprocket if you choose to reuse the sprocket.... a press?...i thought i needed a puller for the drive sprocket and compression tool for the clutch retaining clip. JT | ||
| Henrik |
I've had some coffee and will try to get it right this time  Clutch; to remove the clutch diaphragm spring and clutch plates you are correct, you will need a clutch spring compressor like like this one. some here have made their own tool from PVC pipe, steel bar and threaded rod. There was a thread with pictures and description. However, you don't need to pull the clutch spring to remove the whole clutch basket. If you remove the clutch actuator (name?) etc. from the center of the clutch hub (you will need a new snap ring), you can get to the nut holding the whole clutch assembly. For the drive sprocket/rotor assembly, really, once you get the nut off (lots of torque on that one), you can pull the clutch/primary chain/rotor/sprocket off as a unit by hand. The sprocket is pressed onto the rotor, so if you were to reuse either sprocket or rotor, you would have to use a press to push them apart. Of course you can buy a sprocket by itself, and a sprocket/rotor assembly, but you can't buy the rotor by itself - although the manual states that each can be replaced individually  . Just one of those things I guess. Since you are planning on replacing both stator and rotor, may I again suggest you buy an 8-bolt sprocket/rotor assembly to prevent "issues" down the line. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
JT -- you can press the sproket outa the rotor using a big-assed vise as an improvised press -- install ditto -- but you don't need to, as H sez -- the rotor will come with a sprocket nicely installed you'll also need a torque wrench that reads over 200 ft lbs -- I finally figured that out at 8 pm on a sunday -- guess where I went monday after work ? ;-} | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
may I again suggest you buy an 8-bolt sprocket/rotor assembly to prevent "issues" down the line. ????? JT | ||
| Ceejay |
A breaker bar marked one foot away from the socket head with a 200 lb person standing on it works just as nice...just be sure your stand set up can handle 200 lbs hanging off the side... | ||
| Jackbequick |
And the 1-3/16" nut that holds the clutch basket on is a LEFT HAND THREAD! A 30mm socket will work for removing the clutch nut, especially if you remember that is is a LEFT HAND THREAD and turn it in the Jack | ||
| Firemanjim |
Be careful pressing gear on and off rotor --if not supported the face will flex and break magnets. Ask me how I know. | ||
| Road_thing |
Bomber: Does Jim's comment above relate in any way to the situation that had us riding two-up at Homecoming? rt | ||
| Bomber |
nossir -- my magnet-dislocation event pre-dated any personal involvement with said rotor/gear combination good question, though ;-} | ||
| Henrik |
From my previous post: If you're thinking of doing some motor work down the line, it may be a good idea to upgrade sprocket/rotor to the newer 8-bolt version, as there has been stories of the older 4-bolt sprocket coming loose from the rotor. The S2 came stock with a rotor/sprocket combination secured together with 4 bolts. On later models - can't remember the year - the rotor/sprocket combo was updated using 8 bolts instead of the previous 4. This due to the rotor/sprocket combo separating in some instances. Basically you want a late model tuber sprocket/rotor combo. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
as late as Y2K, the rotor/sprocket had 4 bolts -- which means you want to do some research as to when the part changed (btw, when you aroder a replacement for said Y2K unit, you get a 4-bolter) | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
thanks for all the info...first time in a EVO sporty...i'm sure i'll be asking for more help...getting set to pull it this week end. should i change both stator and rotor? use HD or aftermarket parts? once the clutch basket is out, in stall a new set up? which one. JT | ||
| Henrik |
If it's only the stator that's fried, I'd just replace that - unless you have $$ to burn Someone has mentioned that there are aftermarket stators with a lifetime warranty. Don't know how good they are about honoring it, but it may be worth looking into? For the clutch, stock is fine. I remember Rocketman being unhappy with the Barnett clutch plates years back. If anything you may consider getting rid of the spring plate. If you can get a hold of some used but still good plates, then that works well. I measured the stack height of my friction plates, and they were within specs, so I just replaced the spring plate with 2 steel and one friction plate (thanks again Brian and Jack). Works fine. Again, if you have $$ to burn there are aftermarket clutch plate kits that come with enough plates to leave out the spring plate. Henrik | ||
| Phat_j |
buy an accel stator | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
accel..? when i read the stator i'm getting .6 ohm...but when i run it, i get nothing voltage wise...i'm assuming the stator is no good.. JT | ||
| Oldog |
Likely, are you on the AC scale? of your meter the DC range may not read right .6 ohm is not far off of spec, do you show a low resistance to ground if so dead stator. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
DC when i read at the battery...AC when i read direct off the stator. at the battery there was no charge, direct off the stator there was no AC. but the stator reads .6 accross the windings, and nothing to ground. the rotor/sprocket combo was updated using 8 bolts instead of the previous 4. the rotor comes attached to the 8 bolt setup? i'll have to look into it, anyone have part #'s once i remove the clip holding the clutch basket, do i have to remove hub to pull the primary chain... i really miss my 67 pan/shovel..LMFAO JT | ||
| Henrik |
JT; the rotor and sprocket are pressed together and then secured together with 4 bolts on the older models and with 8 bolts on the newer models. You can't remove the clutch basket by itself. The rotor/sprocket assembly, the clutch hub and the primary chain comes off all together. In order to get the clutch hub off you need to first pull the small snap ring holding the clutch adjuster plate - the nut holding the clutch hub is hiding underneath. Once that nut is off (as well as the nut holding the rotor/sprocket) it all comes off as a unit. Henrik | ||
| Oldog |
Stator is shorted definately! | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
once i remove the snap ring holding the clutch basket and remove the nut holding the clutch hub..do i need a puller to remove it? also, are the stator and rotor a match set, can i run a HD rotor with a ACCEL stator? JT PS..THANK YOU!!! | ||
| Firemanjim |
No puller needed for clutch,the rotor and stator not a matched set. |
